What Kind Of Stitching Pony/clamp Are You Using?

[specialcases]

I had Tandy's 2 version first then quickly found the need for something more stable so I made my own Pony - Tandy units were challenge to me on the hardware side even when I upgrade/replaced some - just my experience an based on the work I and way I need to position it, Mine has a little deeper/wider throat, wider jaws, wide base and uses a ratchet strap fro tension (one hand operation while he other positions the work), and rotates for various work positions. I used old hardwood floor boards I laminated. It also slots into an old chair to make a semi horse (donkeee?) when needed.

Also for fun I researched the traditional bench style clamps from photos, historic plans and Al Stohlman's book and had one made by my brother in law as a gift - I was going to but he wanted to so who am I to say no..... I added padding for my bones.

[Sorefingers]

Like many of the other replies, I made my own. Looking at the ones that were for sale out there it is not a difficult item to make. The tandy pony looked cheap and to me a lil bit pricey for a lil bit of wood.

[froger]

I started the same way you did, and didn't like it any better. It's not heavy enough, and that stupid tiny wing nut kills your fingers. I built a stiching horse using the plans in the back of Al's book. I really like it, but it took six months spare time to build, and takes up a lot of room. Reinventing the hard wooden bench was not a good idea either. I've seen the jaws of a stiching horse for sale in the leather crafters journal. They fit in your vise. I'd buy or build a set of those if I were doing it again.

[kwelna]

Built my own , it is tall enough so that the base sits on the floor and I can stitch while i watch TV. I made it out of oak trim ~ 3/4" x 3 1/2" from the local Menards \ Home Depot for about $30 including hardware. Stained an finished, it can sit behine by recliner and no one notices it. I started of with the cheap one from Tandy leather, it worked, but is a bit too flexable \ light weight if you are trying to push an awl through 2-3 layers of 6-8 oz leather.

Edited January 21, 2014 by kwelna

[ramrod]

my brother made my stitching horse about a year ago. it was based loosely on the Stohlman plans. it's perfect. it's also very rugged and i expect it to last as long as i'm around. someday, i'll get some pictures posted.

[Sorefingers]

I found plans for one in old woodworking book my grandfather had. I have thought about building it but I sadly do not have a great deal of space for it. I have thought about modifying the design to make it collapsible or at least taken apart for storage.

[kevinp]

I made one from plans from the art of sewing ? and think it suits my leather work really well and is easy to use

[SLudlow]

I actually use a French-style folding stitching clam. Wonderful piece of equipment.

[MakerUnknown]

Although I don't think this is finished, this is how I built mine and use it.

I wanted to accomplish a couple things with the design.

I didn't want something running through the body of the horse as the method of clamping. I think a bolt running inside the horse would get in the way if you needed to clamp a longer piece.

I didn't want objects on the outside of the horse that would catch the loops of thread while sewing.

And I wanted a quick way of applying pressure and releasing the pressure in order to move the piece.

So what I came up with is this. A thin flexible piece of wood that exerts the side force by being in tension. It works. There's a wide range of thickness it will accommodate within it's range. I lift up to release pressure, move the leather, release the thin board and the pressure is right back on it. I clamp the whole horse to my workbench and work standing up. I don't own a TV and have no need to sit and watch something while I'm stitching....it's better for you anyway to stand.

So far loops of thread run on it without catching onto anything.

I say it's not finished because I want to come up with a system that I can change the anchoring point for the lower part of the thin flexible wood quickly without needing a clamp.

[ramrod]

as an adjustable anchoring system, i'd use a piece of 1" x 1" wood the same length as that board is wide (3 or 4" it looks like). i'd place a 1/4" or 3/8" dowels in it on each end and drill a bunch of corresponding holes in that board to match. you could just pull the block up and move it closer or farther from the jaws and reinsert it, install the flexible wood.

it seems like that would work without too much trouble.