Stitching that's inside the holster

[Shorts]

Well I finally built this pattern, been holding it for a while because it takes slightly more time to hand stitch. I love the look, but...I have my reservations. What I do not like about it is that the stitching is inside the holster and is rubbed by the gun with every single draw. I think that this is the nature of the beast on this pattern overall. But I still don't like it that way. Is there any way to help these stitches last or is it just one of those things???

Ohh forgive the 'in the white' pics. I put the pattern on a rough piece of leather just to get it built. You can see the boo-boos. And the stitching on the gun is from an unrefined pattern...tell tale sign there at the trigger guard

Edited July 27, 2008 by Shorts

[DCKNIVES]

Well, you can gouge stitching channels on the inside too. Or you can line it after stitching. Have done both and it works great.Dave

Edited July 27, 2008 by DCKNIVES

[TwinOaks]

Nice holster, Shorts. I agree with Dave, groove the stitch channel and hope for the best. I really liked this holster type (Askin's Avenger) when I saw it. However, after a little use, I've found that the loop on the back of it tends to stretch a little. I made mine out of 6-7oz VT, so that may be part of the issue. The result is that the pistol tends to flop a bit, and vertical slop makes for an inconsistant draw. For EDC I find it unacceptable, but for a range holster, I like it. Also, I think this design really should have a thumb strap. I hope you can overcome these issues, but since I don't make a lot of holsters, I didn't put much effort in it. I look forward to seeing the refinements.

[Dwight]

When I make a similar holster, . . . I do two things to help the stitches: 1) all of the "parts" are first put together with contact cement, and 2) all of the stitches are gone over with a tool I made that flattens them down into the dampened leather (John Bianchi has a name for that technique that I disremember right now).

Additionally, . . . I use my thumb to "roll" the upper edge of the holster away from the weapon, making sort of a funnel effect that greatly assists in one hand re-holstering. It is not enough to "show" under a cover garment, just enough to move that top row of stitches on the outside edge where most wear would occur anyway.

Anyway, . . . works for me.

May God bless,

Dwight

[Shorts]

Ahhh I see. I can groove. The thought sped across my mind but that's about all it did in there. I'll also try out wetting/pressing those stitches down. Dwight, thanks for the tip on the Bianchi method. I'll try it out.

I used 7/8oz for this one. It is this pattern that makes me want a machine more (I've been mostly indifferent to it thus far). I'm eyeballing the Artisan 3000 but that is just a dream at the moment. Like a 16 yr old kid with a new driver's license All in good time.

[BOOMSTICKHolsters]

Nice start, Shorts. These are a little more complicated to build, aren't they? If you don't mind some unwarranted advice, you might consider narrowing the tunnel loop so it doesn't overlap the profile of the pistol. If the loop follows the shape of the pistol, it can be really difficult to feed a stiff gun belt through it. It looks like you've already done a good job leaving room in the tunnel loop for the belt, but I would recommend making a form that is slightly smaller than your belt to shape the loop around, so there's no guess work.

As for the inside stitching, if you are hand sewing you can get away with cutting a groove on the inside of the holster after you punch the holes but before you stitch them. If you start using a machine than you should dampen the inside of the leather before you stitch it, and then "set" the stitches by tapping them with a smooth faced hammer.

Don't forget to show us some pics of the improved pattern!

[Shorts]

Jeff, they are a definitely little more complicated to build. It takes more planning. It's tough to dye as well. I tried swabbing the dye, it's tricky, especially on a water-based dye that must go on only after wet molding. I may have better luck using the airbrush. But getting under the rear tunnel and evenly along the support piece edges....tricky. It will be great when I can dip dye (once back in the States). Also, applying my maker's mark was a bit of a trick.

As I said, it's all rough cut on this one but it is a learning experience that's for sure. I'm going to get it on the belt here in a bit and see how it feels. From that and the after-build evaluation, I can make some nice edits to the pattern that should have me pointed in a good direction.

Thanks for the tips on the tunnel loop. I'm always open to advice

[Shorts]

Initial impressions:

- The fit - the holster is not intrusive and doesn't feel like its poking me. In fact, the fullsize 1911 sits comfortably, very comfortably. I'm sitting in this chair, and while I feel the end of the holster on my hip and the grip of the gun in my 'nook' here on my side, it isn't poking. That's good. Now if I lean over to the side, the grip safety tang will poke my ribs, pretty darn high up too (I have a short torso...or I am short..you know the drill)

- Putting on belt - tougher than pancake or snap on holster. To put on, I first looped the belt into the rear slot in the holster, then through the belt loop on the jeans at 4oclock, then through the tunnel on the holster. This will be tricky with a thicker gun belt (I'm wearing a casual Carhartt leather belt that is between 1/8"-3/16" thick). But by doing it this way, it puts the holster in the position that I prefer wearing my holster - at 3oclock just behind my hip bone.

- Drawing - I've never had a holster draw this well before. Its slick and smooth. Could be a mistake lol Kidding, I think it's the nature of this style, the fold over holster. It feels like a smoother draw to me, YMMV. I think the attachment to the belt is very snug in a vertical aspect that the draw is tight without any extra movement.

- Stability - Moves more on a lateral plane centered on the belt. However, I just raced down the stairs to answer the phone, it didn't "flop". It moved, but there was no, what I would describe as, "flopping". If you're intending on carrying while you run, I suggest not a 1911 and not a belt holster This characteristic was my largest concern for this type of holster. If it sits too low on the belt, it isharder to conceal. If it sits too high, it is unstable.

That's about it for now. I'm going to leave this on a few hours and do my work around here. This will allow me to get more familiar with the holster. Here are pics of how it sits...yes, great players are made in the offseason

Edited July 28, 2008 by Shorts

[Srigs]

Nice holster. It looks like it carries well.

[Shorts]

Thanks

Ok, you have not lived until you try grooving the rough side of a holster! ...working on a cross draw I've had requests for. But I do have this holster above edited and ready for a rebuild. These two are spawn from the same design.

[HFD60]

Personally I would not worry about the stitches inside. I made this holster over 10 yrs. ago and carry it daily plus do alot of shooting. The stitching show no signs of wear. IMHO.