New To Leather. Questions On Tools

[Glendon]

I'll add that I get EXCELLENT color out of the standard Pro Oil Black with little to no rub off. The trick is to put down a coat of something dark first (I prefer Dk. Brown) and then top it with black so you're not putting down so much of the black to cover a light color.

I'll have to try that. You learn something new everyday, and that never stops being a revaluation.

[Cyberthrasher]

I don't know how that works with USMC, but it sounds viable. I should add that I also oil between coats to help pull the dye into the leather instead of leaving stuff on top.

[dpixel8]

Nice. That's another thing I've been looking for advice on, is certain techniques. I realize a lot of the work here seems to be of the more traditional style whereas I think the stuff I'm looking at doing, might be considered contemporary (?).

For instance, I will be attempting an iPad cover/case. Restoration Hardware has one that I would like to base it off of, but I can't seem to figure out how the larger flat areas (front and back basically) are so rigid. Is it that a piece of thin plastic is stitched between the leather to give it more rigidity? Don't really feel like tearing the thing apart just to see...

Another example of something id love to try but not sure how the hell they do it, is the cases for phones and other various electronics made by VAJA Cases (vajacases.com) I can't seem to visualize how they possibly make them as rigid as they do. I am assuming again that they cover some other material with leather? I can't see how wet molding would allow you to get a finished piece that would stay in place without being a "pouch" style.

Sorry if there are Any bad misspellings and grammar issues. On and iPad and not the easiest for discussions.....

Oh and the wife gave me the go-ahead on the drive, Cyber. Lol

[Glendon]

Even amung veg tanned leather, there are different characteristics of leather. The firmness of leather is usually called it's "hand". You can have two pieces of leather the same thickness, where one has a very soft hand and will drape right over your arm, while another has a very firm hand and is like a piece of cardboard in rigidity.

That's why if you are ordering leather and aren't sure of what you want, the supplier will usualy ask what you are going to do with it. You can have 3oz leather that's soft enough for clothing, and 3oz leather that is stiff enough for bookbinding. You don't want to get one when you need the other.

Those phone cases look like they are wet formed, soaked all the way through and then molded and stretched over a form. Once dried, wet formed leather holds it's shape very well. Not particularly hard actually. Just a technique you need to learn.

Edited July 27, 2012 by Glendon

[dpixel8]

That's so cool! Wow. I'm going to have fun messing around with techniques.

[Glendon]

I think you'll enjoy playing around with ideas. I haven't done it, but I've seen people wrap their kindle, phone, whatever, in plastic wrap and mold a piece of leather right over their device. Then attach that form that makes the front, sides, and bottom to a flat back piece, and they have a perfectly fitted basic case. You want to be careful of your electronics, but it can be done.

Edited July 27, 2012 by Glendon

[cking]

I am fairly new to this too but I would also like to add that you can save quite a bit by looking around some. For instance where I live I can go to a store called Tractor Supply and get Fiebings Pure Neatsfoot oil in a 32 oz bottle for $8 or $9. And the contact cement or Rubber Cement that I myself use you can find alot cheaper at Walmart, about half the cost before you include Haz Mat shipping cost too. Sometimes you just have to try places you wouldnt think of at first. For instance, say you did want to get Contact Cement. You might find it a a local hardware store.

[dpixel8]

I am fairly new to this too but I would also like to add that you can save quite a bit by looking around some. For instance where I live I can go to a store called Tractor Supply and get Fiebings Pure Neatsfoot oil in a 32 oz bottle for $8 or $9. And the contact cement or Rubber Cement that I myself use you can find alot cheaper at Walmart, about half the cost before you include Haz Mat shipping cost too. Sometimes you just have to try places you wouldnt think of at first. For instance, say you did want to get Contact Cement. You might find it a a local hardware store.

Appreciate the ideas and trust me I planned to buy for instance, the rubber cement from a store like Wally World.

However most of the specialized items, I would prefer to give my business to a company like Springfield. I am a strong supporter of small businesses, being one myself as well as feeling that it is needed to get this economy back on its feet. Supporting big-box stores only encourages low-wages and an inability for parts of the public to get ahead.

But I will step off my soapbox, as that is neither here nor there in regards to this hobby nor thread.

Another question for Glen, I looked more into the vaja cases. Found a few video reviews online and for those phone cases that seem EXTREMELY rigid, I just cannot foresee how they are made that way. Is there an example out there (possibly visual in nature), that sort of shows the technique? I realize how you said it needed to be fully wet molded, but the form of some of those class just seem like there is some sort of plastic or interior piece that keeps the form. Unless I just really don't have a clue as to how hard certain leathers are on their own.

[Glendon]

Here's a good video on wet molding from Ian from Leodis Leather. Wet molded leather can be that hard, almost acrylic feeling.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SIOGDykXJFQ

[dpixel8]

Woah.......