New To Leather. Questions On Tools

[Cyberthrasher]

Oh yeah, looking at your prices there, you haven't signed up for the wholesale membership yet. It's $35 for the year and will probably knock close to that if not a little more off your order (as it stands now)

[dpixel8]

Oh yeah, looking at your prices there, you haven't signed up for the wholesale membership yet. It's $35 for the year and will probably knock close to that if not a little more off your order (as it stands now)

nice! Much better than Tandy's membership cost.

Also what are awl blades for? Thought I only needed an awl for hand stitching? Sorry if that's a dumb question.

PM inbound.

[Cyberthrasher]

So, i was just adding up your list with the membership and that exact list comes out to $147.21. So, you just paid for your membership cost

While I was doing that, i noticed that awl you have has a fixed blade on it, so don't worry about that too much. You may find it useful to get one later that you can change the blade on, but I really don't know what the one that's on there is like, so I don't want to sway you either way on that.

oh yeah, I also noticed you had the Fiebing's regular dye selected. I don't have any experience with that. I know a lot of us here use the Fiebing's Pro Oil dye, but it's also not available in white. Just an FYI. I remember a thread somewhere on the differences, but didn't pay much attention to it at the time since I like the pro oil, though I may need to try some of that white in the future.

Edited July 27, 2012 by Cyberthrasher

[Glendon]

I have used Fiebing's regular spirit dyes. I'm quite happy with them. I will give you one word of warning on the USMC black. It's the best looking black out there, but it is particularly bad about dye rub off. It leaves a lot of particles on the leather when it dries. You will want to really buff those projects well before any serious handling.

[Cyberthrasher]

I'll add that I get EXCELLENT color out of the standard Pro Oil Black with little to no rub off. The trick is to put down a coat of something dark first (I prefer Dk. Brown) and then top it with black so you're not putting down so much of the black to cover a light color.

[Glendon]

I'll add that I get EXCELLENT color out of the standard Pro Oil Black with little to no rub off. The trick is to put down a coat of something dark first (I prefer Dk. Brown) and then top it with black so you're not putting down so much of the black to cover a light color.

I'll have to try that. You learn something new everyday, and that never stops being a revaluation.

[Cyberthrasher]

I don't know how that works with USMC, but it sounds viable. I should add that I also oil between coats to help pull the dye into the leather instead of leaving stuff on top.

[dpixel8]

Nice. That's another thing I've been looking for advice on, is certain techniques. I realize a lot of the work here seems to be of the more traditional style whereas I think the stuff I'm looking at doing, might be considered contemporary (?).

For instance, I will be attempting an iPad cover/case. Restoration Hardware has one that I would like to base it off of, but I can't seem to figure out how the larger flat areas (front and back basically) are so rigid. Is it that a piece of thin plastic is stitched between the leather to give it more rigidity? Don't really feel like tearing the thing apart just to see...

Another example of something id love to try but not sure how the hell they do it, is the cases for phones and other various electronics made by VAJA Cases (vajacases.com) I can't seem to visualize how they possibly make them as rigid as they do. I am assuming again that they cover some other material with leather? I can't see how wet molding would allow you to get a finished piece that would stay in place without being a "pouch" style.

Sorry if there are Any bad misspellings and grammar issues. On and iPad and not the easiest for discussions.....

Oh and the wife gave me the go-ahead on the drive, Cyber. Lol

[Glendon]

Even amung veg tanned leather, there are different characteristics of leather. The firmness of leather is usually called it's "hand". You can have two pieces of leather the same thickness, where one has a very soft hand and will drape right over your arm, while another has a very firm hand and is like a piece of cardboard in rigidity.

That's why if you are ordering leather and aren't sure of what you want, the supplier will usualy ask what you are going to do with it. You can have 3oz leather that's soft enough for clothing, and 3oz leather that is stiff enough for bookbinding. You don't want to get one when you need the other.

Those phone cases look like they are wet formed, soaked all the way through and then molded and stretched over a form. Once dried, wet formed leather holds it's shape very well. Not particularly hard actually. Just a technique you need to learn.

Edited July 27, 2012 by Glendon

[dpixel8]

That's so cool! Wow. I'm going to have fun messing around with techniques.

[Glendon]

I think you'll enjoy playing around with ideas. I haven't done it, but I've seen people wrap their kindle, phone, whatever, in plastic wrap and mold a piece of leather right over their device. Then attach that form that makes the front, sides, and bottom to a flat back piece, and they have a perfectly fitted basic case. You want to be careful of your electronics, but it can be done.

Edited July 27, 2012 by Glendon

[cking]

I am fairly new to this too but I would also like to add that you can save quite a bit by looking around some. For instance where I live I can go to a store called Tractor Supply and get Fiebings Pure Neatsfoot oil in a 32 oz bottle for $8 or $9. And the contact cement or Rubber Cement that I myself use you can find alot cheaper at Walmart, about half the cost before you include Haz Mat shipping cost too. Sometimes you just have to try places you wouldnt think of at first. For instance, say you did want to get Contact Cement. You might find it a a local hardware store.

[dpixel8]

I am fairly new to this too but I would also like to add that you can save quite a bit by looking around some. For instance where I live I can go to a store called Tractor Supply and get Fiebings Pure Neatsfoot oil in a 32 oz bottle for $8 or $9. And the contact cement or Rubber Cement that I myself use you can find alot cheaper at Walmart, about half the cost before you include Haz Mat shipping cost too. Sometimes you just have to try places you wouldnt think of at first. For instance, say you did want to get Contact Cement. You might find it a a local hardware store.

Appreciate the ideas and trust me I planned to buy for instance, the rubber cement from a store like Wally World.

However most of the specialized items, I would prefer to give my business to a company like Springfield. I am a strong supporter of small businesses, being one myself as well as feeling that it is needed to get this economy back on its feet. Supporting big-box stores only encourages low-wages and an inability for parts of the public to get ahead.

But I will step off my soapbox, as that is neither here nor there in regards to this hobby nor thread.

Another question for Glen, I looked more into the vaja cases. Found a few video reviews online and for those phone cases that seem EXTREMELY rigid, I just cannot foresee how they are made that way. Is there an example out there (possibly visual in nature), that sort of shows the technique? I realize how you said it needed to be fully wet molded, but the form of some of those class just seem like there is some sort of plastic or interior piece that keeps the form. Unless I just really don't have a clue as to how hard certain leathers are on their own.

[Glendon]

Here's a good video on wet molding from Ian from Leodis Leather. Wet molded leather can be that hard, almost acrylic feeling.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SIOGDykXJFQ

[dpixel8]

Woah.......

[Glendon]

And I bet you thought the limits of leather went from soft jacket up to a stiff belt. Not quite.

[dpixel8]

And I bet you thought the limits of leather went from soft jacket up to a stiff belt. Not quite.

The more I read and see, the more amazed I am.

[bluesman1951]

Every one has covered the whole gamut of things . For my two cents all I can say is thread ,thread ,thats the icing on a finished product !!!! Texas threads bonded white tr350 in one pound spools .Pay the extra 5.00 for the small order fee and spend the 16.00 for the spool . This thread is all I'll ever need or use cant say enough good things about it . Take a trip to your local plastics house for cutting boards ,straight edges , and inserts to case your leather . These plastics take the place of a cell phone when shaping your case . Better than wood or metal . Invest in a 60 mm Olfa cutter .

Fantastic forum you have here. Was pointed this way by a few fellow leatherworkers who have given me a little info. I would like to know the basic tools I need to get started. I put together a list of what I THINK I needed on Tandy, and it came out to about $300 with a few pieces of leather. But I'm just not sure, so I wanted to ask the pros. The work I'd like to do SEEMS fairly simple and easy to get started in. I don't want to really do any stamping/branding. I'm more into modernish styles in my life, so I'd like to just start out at least, with some stuff like these examples. I'm a big watch collector too, and I really like this guy's work (I actually know him, which is why I'm posting his work. He's too busy to really give me TOO much advice and I don't want to bother him) Any guidance you could give me would be GREATLY appreciated.

Here we go:

[dpixel8]

Springfield doesn't appear to have one of the Protecto Boards. Or am I missing something? Is that not needed? Otherwise everything is ready.

[Glendon]

You just need to know the terminology. You will also see them called poundo boards. http://springfieldle...Poundo%2C12x24/

If you aren't going to be stamping, one shouldn't strictly be needed. What I use for punching holes is HDPE (High-density polyethylene), the white plastic cutting board material. For cutting, I use one of those soft plastic gridded cutting mats you can find in office supply stores. I do have a piece of poundo board under my granite to deaden some of the sound from stamping, but if you have a good punching and cutting surface already then the poundo board is just another option.

If you look at my avatar picture, you will see my stamping stone on the left side. That black line under it is poundo board.

Edited July 30, 2012 by Glendon

[dpixel8]

You just need to know the terminology. You will also see them called poundo boards. http://springfieldle...Poundo%2C12x24/

If you aren't going to be stamping, one shouldn't strictly be needed. What I use for punching holes is HDPE (High-density polyethylene), the white plastic cutting board material. For cutting, I use one of those soft plastic gridded cutting mats you can find in office supply stores. I do have a piece of poundo board under my granite to deaden some of the sound from stamping, but if you have a good punching and cutting surface already then the poundo board is just another option.

If you look at my avatar picture, you will see my stamping stone on the left side. That black line under it is poundo board.

Ok, that's what I was wondering. I saw that poundo board, but it looked a LOT thinner than the one on Tandy. And I won't be stamping probably at all (except if I have a logo done for myself). But I will be using punches....suppose I could use one of those green plastic boards? I'm guessing that's the same type of cutting mat you're talking of. That's cool then if I don't need to spend that extra money.

[Glendon]

The cutting mats are fine for cutting leather, but I wouldn't use them for hole punches. They are very thin. A knife wont cut in too far, but a punch could go right through them. You do need something. If you have one of those green cutting mats usually used for paper, that will work great for cutting. No need to buy something else. For punching, just pick this up http://springfieldleather.com/32228/Cutting-Board%2CPoly%2C6%22x6%22/ No need to pay for one of the rubber boards in your case.

[dpixel8]

The cutting mats are fine for cutting leather, but I wouldn't use them for hole punches. They are very thin. A knife wont cut in too far, but a punch could go right through them. You do need something. If you have one of those green cutting mats usually used for paper, that will work great for cutting. No need to buy something else. For punching, just pick this up http://springfieldle...ly%2C6%22x6%22/ No need to pay for one of the rubber boards in your case.

:highfive:

Thanks man

[dpixel8]

Well, got everything ordered! Really excited to get started on some stuff. Have so many ideas in my head and things that I've seen. Hopefully it comes fairly easily to me. Found a few good sites, including this one:

http://highonglue.com/leatherwork-tutorial-how-to-make-a-leather-iphone-flip-wallet/

Should give me a little head start to start emulating some things to learn, and then come up with my own ideas. Want to thank you all again, hopefully this place becomes a second home to me and I'll learn more and more. Again (I sound like a broken record, I'm sure) I thank you all so much. Couldn't have, nor wouldn't have pulled the trigger, without all of your help.

[Glendon]

Good luck with your fist projects! Try to do one at a time at first. It's real tempting to jump right in at first. Trust me, you will be a lot happier getting a couple projects done and off the bench then having a number of them on the go.

Thanks for the link. Those look like great tutorials. The designs are a bit too hipster for me, but look easily adapted to my more Victorian style. Always something new out there.