New Owb Prototype

[Steven Kelley]

  On 8/15/2012 at 11:29 AM, DHopper said:

Thanks much, Steven. Taking time to help out show some real character. Very nice.

I'll look into one of those wheels from Spinner. I'm kicking myself now for getting rid of my lathe a while back. I've needed it numerous times since after it say quiet for almost a year. Go figure!! LoL. I'll check eBay for the felt, too. I've tried to google that thick pure wool felt but I didn't see it. I'll try to get a routine set that will also help get those edges much more uniform holster to holster. I've been able to get them super smooth, but they don't really seem finished until you get the rounded edge and a really good wax job.

I'll see where I can go with this over the weekend. I know I'll need a lot more practice than that, but maybe I can make a little improvement after you help.

Take care.

Here's a link to the felt "bobs" that I use...... http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-Felt-Hard-Cylinder-Polishing-Buffing-Bobs-1-dia-x-1-long-x-1-4-steel-shank-/370633634743?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item564b7c73b7

They work very well and last a long time. You'll want one for each color of holster, as some of the dye transfers to the felt during burnishing.

[katsass]

  On 8/15/2012 at 11:29 AM, DHopper said:

Thanks much, Steven. Taking time to help out show some real character. Very nice.

I'll look into one of those wheels from Spinner. I'm kicking myself now for getting rid of my lathe a while back. I've needed it numerous times since after it say quiet for almost a year. Go figure!! LoL. I'll check eBay for the felt, too. I've tried to google that thick pure wool felt but I didn't see it. I'll try to get a routine set that will also help get those edges much more uniform holster to holster. I've been able to get them super smooth, but they don't really seem finished until you get the rounded edge and a really good wax job.

I'll see where I can go with this over the weekend. I know I'll need a lot more practice than that, but maybe I can make a little improvement after you help.

Take care.

Dave, from the grump: I use a home-made wheel for waxing. Made from a 3/8" stove bolt and a strip of denim from an old pair of Levi's. I used contact cement to adhere the cloth to the bolt - just watch the direction that you wind it on. I use a 3/8" variable speed hand drill set horizontally in a vice so that I can see both sides of my work while standing. To me it's easier than working with the tool vertical. I use my burnishing wheel in the same rig - for the same reason. Mike

P.S. I also use a touch of glycerine soap (Neutrogena) when doing my initial burnish - for me it work better than any other stuff I have tried.

Edited August 15, 2012 by katsass

[Bronson]

For an OWB concealed carry holster I would be worried that the wings could be another thing to snag clothing on.

Bronson

[DHopper]

Hi Bronson. I can see where that would be a concern. However, the holster really seems to hug pretty timely to the body while standing, walking, etc.. Now of course, there would be difficulty in fully concealing in lots of situations; but no more of an issue than any other OWB carrying a full size 1911. I can say that this design was not necessarily meant for full cc, but IMO would hide as well if not better than most OWBs out there. And it looks cool!

Thx again, Steven and Grump! Great help!! I do have a question for you ... what are you both using as a top coat finish? I see some use oils, waxes, or even sprays. Resolene, mink oil, sno-seal, car wax, etc. etc. etc. I'm getting a bit over saturated with choices. I like what the mink oil does to and for the leather, but the maintenance down the road is more than some customers want to deal with. Is there a good combo or something different you're using?

[Steven Kelley]

  On 8/16/2012 at 11:48 AM, DHopper said:

Thx again, Steven and Grump! Great help!! I do have a question for you ... what are you both using as a top coat finish? I see some use oils, waxes, or even sprays. Resolene, mink oil, sno-seal, car wax, etc. etc. etc. I'm getting a bit over saturated with choices. I like what the mink oil does to and for the leather, but the maintenance down the road is more than some customers want to deal with. Is there a good combo or something different you're using?

When finishing a holster, I use a light coat of neetsfoot oil (allow to fully dry), then an acrylic sealer (such as resolene, Angelus 600, or 50/50 mix of mop n glow and water). Allow the acrylic to fully dry. Next I apply a coat of wax and buff. The neetsfoot oil will add some of the moisture and oils back into the leather that were removed during forming and drying. That is the only oil I would recommend putting on the leather, and only use a light coat. Any oils that are designed to keep leather soft are not the best to use on a tight molded leather holster, as they could soften it too much and you lose your molding and retention.

Again, there are lots of different things makers do here, and this is just my method.

[DHopper]

Oh, ok! I was a little confused that you could put in the acrylic after the neats foot. That really helps!

Here's one I'm finishing up this am. The edging is getting much better IMO. Not perfect, but better.

[katsass]

Dave, I build most all of my stuff from two layers of leather - to provide a smooth interior and (as Dwight found out) a much higher rigidity in the finished product. I finish with a 50/50 mix of Mop & Glow and water - two light coats that penetrate, then follow with Kiwi neutral polish and buff. This after a good shot of pure neatsfoot oil. I live in an area of the desert that gets around 7 to 9 inches of moisture on average (rain and snow - such as it is) per year, so we don't worry too much about moisture problems with our leather - just the opposite. We need to keep it conditioned. Mike

P.S. When burnishing, I just moisten the edge with a damp sponge and hit it on the burnisher, then wet a finger with water and rub it over a bar of Neutrogena bar soap (glycerine soap) and just rub that into the edge a little - it doesn't take much. Now have a go on the burnisher. It seems to do things so much nicer, and (if you then dye the edge) the dye takes well and also takes any finish, including Mop & Glow. Mike

Edited August 16, 2012 by katsass

[dickf]

Hi Dave,

I think the other folks pretty much nailed it with regards to those bottom wings on an OWB holster. It's too much material, and if these are primarily for concealment, they will not help with that aspect. The holster should be stabilized by it's attachment points on the belt. This is what prevents it from rocking back and forth and what helps keep the butt of the gun tucked in nice and tight. I think you've come a long way in a short time.

The credit for that design goes to the late Bruce Nelson and his Patriot holster. It was groundbreaking for it's time, and lots of modifications have been made by various makers to improve on it's design.

Here's a photo of one (not mine)

Anyway, keep at it - your stitching looks great!

Chris