Couple Questions...

[edgeleatherworks]

alrighty,

first off... I've tryed googling my butt off, does anyone sale/make/provide the black interior stuff tandy sells with their wallets and kits? I want to start making my own stuff, but didn't know if they just provide it pre made or in sheets or what...

more importantly to me... I've only been playing with leather for maybe 3 months, 3 months consecutivly. I have all the cheap (not so goodstuff) starter material from tandy as a gift. I'm having a blast and learning a lot but I really really am tired of using the super sheen and regular dyes. I feel like my tooling is getting OK and I get really stoked, but when I apply sheen and or then dye it, I get discouraged because it get so blochy, and smeared, and the sheen sokmetimes doesn't work as well....

Am I doing something wrong in regards to steps taken? If so what are the correct steps. Also, what would be the next step up in a substance like super sheen to get the same effect, and what about leather dyes? anything better?

Thanks a ton gents and ma'ams!

[Cyberthrasher]

Tons of better stuff out there. For your wallet guts, you just need some light weight leather, about 1 - 2 oz. Look for "lining leathers" I prefer Springfield leather for all my stuff and they can help you find exactly what you need in the exact amount you need. Just give them a call and one of the girls there were be able to help you out with whatever you need.

For your dyes, get away from the Tandy Eco-Flo and Super Sheen. Some of the best dyes out there are Fiebing's spirit dyes. I prefer the Professional Oil variety, but there are lots of other options as well. As for your SuperSheen issue, I'm assuming you're attempting to use it as a resist as mentioned in the starter kits. So far I'm really liking Fiebing's Resolene mixed 50/50 with water for that because I can spray it on pretty nicely. It's also a good general top-coat. I actually use ClearLac as well (formerly known as Neatlac), but it just depends on whether I want to spray the finish on or not when I decide which to use.

Also, pick up some scrap bags from whichever place you shop (I still recommend Springfield for everything). You'll see an immediate improvement in your tooling once you get some good leather that hasn't been treated with funky chemicals to preserve it in the box.

[TomG]

alrighty,

.

.

....., but when I apply sheen and or then dye it, I get discouraged because it get so blochy, and smeared, and the sheen sokmetimes doesn't work as well....

Am I doing something wrong in regards to steps taken? If so what are the correct steps. Also, what would be the next step up in a substance like super sheen to get the same effect, and what about leather dyes? anything better?

.

.

How are you applying the dyes? Dry sponge, wet sponge, fleece scrap, dauber?????

Cyber is right. EcoFlo dyes have their own issues. Fiebings are my preferred dyes. The spirit dyes work well, but my experience is that the oil dyes are better. But I'd guess 70+% of people use spirit over oil. And that's just a guess from all the reading I've done.

With the spirit dyes, you can dilute them to get different shades as well.

Personally, I use a damp sponge and apply the diluted dye in a circular motion, trying to keep a consistent pattern and depth as I apply it.

Just remember, you can always apply more dye to darken it but it's tough to remove it and go lighter.

Oh.. Pictures posted here can help people help you.

Tom

[Cyberthrasher]

I don't know why I put "Spirit dyes" on there - too much multi-tasking. I meant to just leave that at Fiebing's and call it good. But, you're right that a lot of people use them and technically the Pro Oil dyes are still spirit based, so it works either way

[TomG]

I don't know why I put "Spirit dyes" on there - too much multi-tasking. I meant to just leave that at Fiebing's and call it good. But, you're right that a lot of people use them and technically the Pro Oil dyes are still spirit based, so it works either way

Probably subliminal

I've read somewhere about the differences between spirit and oil based but can't remember off the top of my head. I did know they both have alcohol.

I'm OK with the spirits cause they have lots of colors, but I won't use anything BUT oil based for black. Too much rub off with USMC Black.

Tom

[Cyberthrasher]

I've read somewhere about the differences between spirit and oil based but can't remember off the top of my head.

My feeble understanding is that they are essentially the same, but they've added oil to the Pro Oil series to make it penetrate better or something. I need to try out some of the plain spirit dyes though so I can save some of the time I spend on color matching.

[TomG]

My feeble understanding is that they are essentially the same, but they've added oil to the Pro Oil series to make it penetrate better or something. I need to try out some of the plain spirit dyes though so I can save some of the time I spend on color matching.

That sounds right. I do know the oils seem to penetrate better and in my limited experience with them, they seem to have better out-of-the-bottle color matching than spirit.

[edgeleatherworks]

Awesome, thanks guys Ill be keeping my eye out, Ill get pics up with my next little project. Again, Im no good so its deffinatly 99.9% possible it could be just me.... But to answer your question, Yes I use a damp sponge, But I more or less "rub it in" like left to right, not really circles... That and sometimes I didnt put super sheen over my dye once done.... ??

question, I case my leather, tool, then paint and sheen any thing I dont want to get dyed..? then wait what? lets say 24 hrs. Then I can apply my dye? then wait another lets say 24 hrs for a protective coat of sheen or similiar product?

Can someone please explain their process for the timeline above? Like how you do things and how long to wait in between, that seems to be my biggest issue, tooling is just a matter of practice for me right now. Got to do it to get better.... But the products and dye and sheen, Im so lost....

THanks a ton guys and gals!

again, ill have pics next time! srry

[TomG]

question, I case my leather, tool, then paint and sheen any thing I dont want to get dyed..? then wait what? lets say 24 hrs. Then I can apply my dye? then wait another lets say 24 hrs for a protective coat of sheen or similiar product?

Can someone please explain their process for the timeline above? Like how you do things and how long to wait in between, that seems to be my biggest issue, tooling is just a matter of practice for me right now. Got to do it to get better.... But the products and dye and sheen, Im so lost....

I am relatively new to leatherwork compared to a lot of folks here, but can share what I've learned. First, as you search and read through the various posts and forums, you're going to find that like most things, there are as many different ways to skin a cat as there are cats. And some products don't play well with other products. As an example, I've seen posts where people reported using EcoFlo dyes and when they applied the finish (I think it was either Satin Sheen or Resolene, not 100% sure though), it took the dye and made it muddy and smeared..

That being said, here's my general procedure, say for a belt.

Cut strap... punch holes and tongue slit on buckle end....Cut grooves if I'm using them... Bevel edges if needed (I almost always edge the flesh side).... Case strap...Tool as desired... Apply Resolene to any places I want to mask from dyeing... let dry overnight

Wet small piece of sponge and dilute dye if needed and test on a piece of same leather scrap. It usually lightens up a little as it dries. Use a circular motion to apply the dye to strap. Let dry for an hour or more... Apply Leather Balm with Atom Wax... let sit for a few minutes and vigorously buff to a sheen.

If needed, apply antiquing with a dauber in a circular motion, getting into all cracks, grooves and crevasses. Almost immediately, I use a coarse, stiff piece of something like canvas folded into a pad to wipe it off. I use it like a block to get all the surface stain off and leave the stain in the indentations. I then let this dry for at least a few hours... usually overnight.

Next, I use saddle soap on the edges and burnish... let dry for a while.Then I usually use an edge dressing on the edges and let dry.

Apply a couple of very light coats of Resolene diluted 50/50 with water, drying between coats for 15 minutes or so. If you apply it too heavily, you'll pull the antiquing out and smear it on top of the leather. Plus, it will crack when flexed. An airbrush is the ideal method, but if I just have 1 item to do, I'll use an old piece of thin cotton cloth, like a dress shirt fabric, as it holds a lot less liquid than tee shirt type material.

Let dry and buff it.

Finally, and I get laughed at by some about this <g>.... But, I rub Mink Oil Paste into the flesh side and then run the leather through my hands, flexing it front and back. The strap usually becomes soft and limp as a dishrag after that... And.. it doesn't have the odor that you get with Neats Foot Oil.

Anyway, that's basically how I do it. I'm sure there are other and better ways to do the same thing, but this is what works for me. Do a lot of reading and experiment with other techniques and see what works best for you.

Tom

[edgeleatherworks]

I am relatively new to leatherwork compared to a lot of folks here, but can share what I've learned. First, as you search and read through the various posts and forums, you're going to find that like most things, there are as many different ways to skin a cat as there are cats. And some products don't play well with other products. As an example, I've seen posts where people reported using EcoFlo dyes and when they applied the finish (I think it was either Satin Sheen or Resolene, not 100% sure though), it took the dye and made it muddy and smeared..

That being said, here's my general procedure, say for a belt.

Cut strap... punch holes and tongue slit on buckle end....Cut grooves if I'm using them... Bevel edges if needed (I almost always edge the flesh side).... Case strap...Tool as desired... Apply Resolene to any places I want to mask from dyeing... let dry overnight

Wet small piece of sponge and dilute dye if needed and test on a piece of same leather scrap. It usually lightens up a little as it dries. Use a circular motion to apply the dye to strap. Let dry for an hour or more... Apply Leather Balm with Atom Wax... let sit for a few minutes and vigorously buff to a sheen.

If needed, apply antiquing with a dauber in a circular motion, getting into all cracks, grooves and crevasses. Almost immediately, I use a coarse, stiff piece of something like canvas folded into a pad to wipe it off. I use it like a block to get all the surface stain off and leave the stain in the indentations. I then let this dry for at least a few hours... usually overnight.

Next, I use saddle soap on the edges and burnish... let dry for a while.Then I usually use an edge dressing on the edges and let dry.

Apply a couple of very light coats of Resolene diluted 50/50 with water, drying between coats for 15 minutes or so. If you apply it too heavily, you'll pull the antiquing out and smear it on top of the leather. Plus, it will crack when flexed. An airbrush is the ideal method, but if I just have 1 item to do, I'll use an old piece of thin cotton cloth, like a dress shirt fabric, as it holds a lot less liquid than tee shirt type material.

Let dry and buff it.

Finally, and I get laughed at by some about this <g>.... But, I rub Mink Oil Paste into the flesh side and then run the leather through my hands, flexing it front and back. The strap usually becomes soft and limp as a dishrag after that... And.. it doesn't have the odor that you get with Neats Foot Oil.

Anyway, that's basically how I do it. I'm sure there are other and better ways to do the same thing, but this is what works for me. Do a lot of reading and experiment with other techniques and see what works best for you.

Tom

I appreciate your help, unfortunatly I'm no where near the same level as you so I'm only catching and understanding bits and pieces... You use resolene almost like sheen? to keep dyes from coloring a certain spot on your leather? do you use it as a overall protective base when your done as well? Or is that the balm and atom wax your talking about? Sorry for the silly questions... I've been watching a lot of videos, especially from satansbarber , he is helping a lot and I think I am going to try some Fiebings oil dys next time... Next I guess I just need to find a qood quality sheen. But whats confusing me is... I thought sheen was for a overall buff/waxing.... idk, like a ptrotective finish or coat (hope that makes sense?) AND you use it on parts of the laeather you cases and dont want the dyes to stain... Kind of like a negative effect. but more and more I research, the people who do VERY well at this, use two completly diff. products... any help is appreciated. I'm making a nook case for my g/f next and really want it perfect, but she knows and I know I'm still learning to the point where mistakes are unfortuantly a must... lol, But I'd still like to try my best.

Also side note... I saw in one of his videos using like a plastic blade, almost in the shape of a knife when wet forming a case, It worked awesome for really making everying fit nice... What are they called if this tool has a name and where can I purchase one...

I again appreciate everyones help, without this website I wouldn't know where to go for help.

[WinterBear]

From my monkeying around with both Sheen and Resolene I can offer my observations.

Super Sheen/Satin Sheen are water-based acrylic-type finishes--they can dissolve or erode when subjected to antiquing and wiping and rubbing, allowing the antique to be absorbed into the underlying leather and making a mucky mess. The advantage to Sheen is that it is flexible and is less likely to craze. It is easily applied, and good as a top coat on things you don't expect to be subjected to a lot of weather. It is more of a water repellant finish than a water resistant finish.

Resolene is harder to apply evenly, but less prone to erosion during antiquing. It can crack or craze where the leather flexes if applied too thickly, so 2-3 very thin coats is better than 1 thin coat and much better than 1 thick coat. It is not waterproof by any means, but it does make a finish that repels moisture better than Sheen.

A lot of people here will supply yet another top coat over the finish with the atom wax as it adds another layer or water protection and mellows the gloss. Others will add an additional top coat with sno-seal instead of atom wax. I have not tried either of these as most of what I've done so far isn't going to be subject to much abuse.

[TomG]

I appreciate your help, unfortunatly I'm no where near the same level as you so I'm only catching and understanding bits and pieces... You use resolene almost like sheen? to keep dyes from coloring a certain spot on your leather? do you use it as a overall protective base when your done as well? Or is that the balm and atom wax your talking about? Sorry for the silly questions... I've been watching a lot of videos, especially from satansbarber , he is helping a lot and I think I am going to try some Fiebings oil dys next time... Next I guess I just need to find a qood quality sheen. But whats confusing me is... I thought sheen was for a overall buff/waxing.... idk, like a ptrotective finish or coat (hope that makes sense?) AND you use it on parts of the laeather you cases and dont want the dyes to stain... Kind of like a negative effect. but more and more I research, the people who do VERY well at this, use two completly diff. products... any help is appreciated. I'm making a nook case for my g/f next and really want it perfect, but she knows and I know I'm still learning to the point where mistakes are unfortuantly a must... lol, But I'd still like to try my best.

Also side note... I saw in one of his videos using like a plastic blade, almost in the shape of a knife when wet forming a case, It worked awesome for really making everying fit nice... What are they called if this tool has a name and where can I purchase one...

winterbear hit it pretty well.

I use Supersheen if it's gotta flex a lot. Resolene if it's flat... OR, I dilute the Res a little more and apply VERY thin coats and then constantly flex the item as it dries, then let it dry for 30 minutes before adding the second coat. remember.. you are not trying to put a plexiglas type surface on it..... just protecting the finish.

I use 50/50 or full strength Resolene for blocking, which is what you are describing as a negative effect.

I use the leather balm right on top of the dye after it's dried. Then I apply the antiquing after the balm dries. Then after the antiquing dries, I apply the sheen or res...

The Sheens tend to smear with the antiquing paste and allow the paste to affect the dye... at least with the Fiebings that I use... the leather balm doesn't...

The plastic blade is probably a plastic bone folder. See picture I'm attaching. they are pretty cheap.

I've seen some of those satanbarber vids. Not bad, but he's kind of "chatty". Tandy has over 80 free videos on their site that will give you some step-by-step directions on stuff. Check them out. the only issue I have is some of them are choppy on my PC... but that's probably on my end.

I get chatty to, though....

In a nutshell:

1) Block

2) Dye

3) Balm

4) Antique

5) Finish

Later

[edgeleatherworks]

winterbear hit it pretty well.

I use Supersheen if it's gotta flex a lot. Resolene if it's flat... OR, I dilute the Res a little more and apply VERY thin coats and then constantly flex the item as it dries, then let it dry for 30 minutes before adding the second coat. remember.. you are not trying to put a plexiglas type surface on it..... just protecting the finish.

I use 50/50 or full strength Resolene for blocking, which is what you are describing as a negative effect.

I use the leather balm right on top of the dye after it's dried. Then I apply the antiquing after the balm dries. Then after the antiquing dries, I apply the sheen or res...

The Sheens tend to smear with the antiquing paste and allow the paste to affect the dye... at least with the Fiebings that I use... the leather balm doesn't...

The plastic blade is probably a plastic bone folder. See picture I'm attaching. they are pretty cheap.

I've seen some of those satanbarber vids. Not bad, but he's kind of "chatty". Tandy has over 80 free videos on their site that will give you some step-by-step directions on stuff. Check them out. the only issue I have is some of them are choppy on my PC... but that's probably on my end.

I get chatty to, though....

In a nutshell:

1) Block

2) Dye

3) Balm

4) Antique

5) Finish

Later

Idk why, and I feel bad. But you putting it in your words how you did cleared it up for me for whatever reason... Lol, thanks to everyone still though!!! Yes I found the bone folder after I posted that response, I did have a question about the resolene? Doesn't it have a strong bad smell to it? If so is there a subsitute?

also whats your preferred dyes to use and what leather blam? Like specifically the bottle if you don't mind...

[TomG]

Idk why, and I feel bad. But you putting it in your words how you did cleared it up for me for whatever reason... Lol, thanks to everyone still though!!! Yes I found the bone folder after I posted that response, I did have a question about the resolene? Doesn't it have a strong bad smell to it? If so is there a subsitute?

also whats your preferred dyes to use and what leather blam? Like specifically the bottle if you don't mind...

Smells like ammonia... Be sure to cut it 50/50 with water.

No sub that I know of other that the standard toppings Look in the Dyes section of the forums and you'll see hundreds if not thousands of posts on various methods and type of finishes.

You can get the leather balm at Tandy in Neutral which works for all colors. Other sites may still carry it in brown. black and a few other colors, but I herd Fiebings was going to discontinue most if not all of the colors ones... I could be wrong on that though.

I prefer Fiebings dyes.

Tom

[edgeleatherworks]

Smells like ammonia... Be sure to cut it 50/50 with water.

No sub that I know of other that the standard toppings Look in the Dyes section of the forums and you'll see hundreds if not thousands of posts on various methods and type of finishes.

You can get the leather balm at Tandy in Neutral which works for all colors. Other sites may still carry it in brown. black and a few other colors, but I herd Fiebings was going to discontinue most if not all of the colors ones... I could be wrong on that though.

I prefer Fiebings dyes.

Tom

Tom, I can't thank you enough. Its at least cleared up my choices on trying the next set of dyes and finishing products. I'll let you guys know how it turns out.... Maybe a little better then the eco dyes I was using. Thanks to everyone again/