Eco-Woe Sorry I Have To Ask This.

[Sjohnsone]

Morning/Afternoon/Evening folks,

I'm sure this has been asked 999,999 times in the forum and I hate to be that guy but it's a dye question.

I'm using the Tandy Eco-flow, which in my opinion is akin to using watercolors to dye the leather. Regardless of its stubborn resistance to actually permeating the leather, what in gods name can I do to keep it from rubbing off on clothing over time and running off in embarassing streaks if rain gets on it.

I do not want a super glossy finish at all. Currently at my disposal for finishes I have The Fiebings Atomwax business(not sure if that's the right name), A neatsfoot compound that was on sale (don't consider this a finish really), and a stray bottle of tandy leather finish.

I've watched a few videos where people used sno-seal.

Ultimately I prefer the warm look of a waxy finish like the atomwax provides. But for the love of god I do not want this dye running at all!

Thanks for your wisdom and advice in advance.

-Seth

[Bob Blea]

Are you talking Eco-Flo dye or antique? If your dealing with a dye you will want to buff it (a lot) to remove the leftover surface pigments before you seal it. With the antique you are kind of buffing it when you rub off the excess to get the highlighting, and obviously you don't want to remove all of it. I've used the Atom wax with the antique, and I didn't have problems with that piece streaking or removing the antique, and I've never had rub off problems after I put it on. However, I don't have much experience with Atom wax as a finish and the project (my checkbook) I used it on does have a pretty good shine to it. However, it is holding up very well.

I still use Eco-Flo antiques a lot but these days I finish everything with a spray on acrylic. I have some resolene and want to try it over the antique (maybe this weekend!) just to see how it looks. I have Wyosheen and I like what it does to the leather (thin coats don't come out glossy) but to put it over the antique I would want to spray it on and I don't have an airbrush. I think brushing or rubbing it on would smear the Eco-flo products, but I don't know that for sure.

Bob

[Sjohnsone]

That the book in your profile picture? It's pretty handsome!! I was going to try the resolyene (sp?); however I saw some projects that went sour with it cracking a bit. I'm a bit of a naturalist when it comes to doing this stuff. I'm new to leatherworking; however my father and I had a taxidermy business while I grew up so I got used to working with different hides as a child. If I could I'd like to find a beeswax compound that I could make myself. One of my friends has a bee farm to make honey so I think I can get some wax from him. I wonder if there's a natural additive I could mix the wax with to get it to remain soft?

Has anyone tried warming bees wax slightly and rubbing it over and then buffing it out that way or will it leave an extremely waxy residue?

[HellfireJack]

50/50 beeswax and neatsfoot oil by volume will give you what you want. You still have to buff beforehand though. It's mentioned several times on this forum.

[Sjohnsone]

Thanks, Jack! I'm still sifting through the myriad of information on the site. Really appreciate it though!

[silverback]

I use 50/50 beeswax and NATURAL turpentine (artist shops will have it) with a bit of good olive oil thrown in, let it sit for a week or so stirring daily and adjusting wax/turps til its a good creamy consistancy.when i use it it is sticky but a good brush then wipe down with the micropore rag seems to lift the stickyness and leave it shiny and smooth.BUT i dont know how it will go with eco dyes under it.

[katsass]

From the old grump: Well, years ago I used some water based dye -- and vowed never to use it again. BUT since you're stuck with it, as said, first buff the snot out of it. Next, if applying anything that has a tendency to moisten the leather - do it with some sort of sprayer. It doesn't have to be a full compressor set up - an old Windex pump sprayer will work well, if the stuff is thin enough. BUT, if you apply it by rag, sponge, chunk of wool shearling, foam paintbrush, or your grubby mitts, you start moving the dye around and it does create strange swirls of color -- usually not appreciated. I have used (for years) a 50/50 mix of Mop & Glow (the floor stuff) and water, sprayed on with an airbrush. It's actually an acrylic finish, similar to the old Tandy 'Neat Sheen' (with just a touch of some other stuff that doesn't do a damned thing to the leather).The trick is to stay away from your project and just 'mist' on a fine layer - don't allow it to puddle. It initially doesn't look like it does a damned thing, especially in warm weather, as it dries almost immediately. Two shots is plenty (with a few minutes between applications). With this method you don't disturb the dye (re-activated by the moisture), and it dries quickly. I finish with a thin coat of Kiwi Neutral shoe wax, rubbed in by hand (no rag or applicator, just a couple of grubby fingers) then. buff to a low sheen. As in many things, moderation is the key, in other words, more ain't better. Here's a pic of matching (sort of) holsters I did - one finished as I say, and the second awaiting the application of Mop & Glow. It's simple, cheap, and works for me. Mike

Edited September 1, 2012 by katsass

[Sjohnsone]

Holy smokes! You guys are awesome. What about Murphy's? When I was a kid my dad had me work it into my baseball glove. Seemed to leave a nice finish.

[katsass]

Holy smokes! You guys are awesome. What about Murphy's? When I was a kid my dad had me work it into my baseball glove. Seemed to leave a nice finish.

Murphy's isn't a finish, possibly a conditioner, but you'll most likely smear the dye when applying it. You need to seal the dye in the leather before doing anything else. Mike