Working On My Very First Holster.....

[Bobby hdflame]

Thanks to Eric at Adams Leatherworks, http://www.adamsleat...m/hows-it-made/ I tackled my first holster. I wanted something for my XD .40 SubCompact, and I liked the looks of the Avenger style. This is my first holster with the pattern I made, so I used some cheap 7/9 oz leather I got from Tandy to test the pattern. Didn't want my very first one to be too plain Jane, so I did some quick basketweave on the reinforcement piece.

It's still drying, but I wanted to get some comments/suggestion from the PRO's on here. Everyone has already been a BIG help. I've been lurking and learning for a while!

This first picture shows it on my old wore out FD duty belt. A new belt is next. I quickly found out that it wouldn't fit on a 1/4" thick, heavy 1 1/2" gun belt. I made a short piece to form the loops and it wouldn't fit. (Picture at bottom.) I used a 3/8" hole punch spaced just barely over 1 1/2", then cut the leather out between it. I WILL be buying a wide chisel to use next!

I think if I just space the holes out about another 1/4", it should work about right. What kind of spacing and hole sizes are you guys using?

This picture shows a little closer. I could stand to move the stitch line just a bit closer to the trigger guard.

You may be able to tell in this picture that I mashed down the detail in my basketweave trying to get the thicker belt through the loops.

Another angle. I think I've got enough cant. It also looks like it should pull in pretty close to the body. I'll see after it dries over night.

And here's a picture of the backside.

My plans were to vinegaroon this holster. I did a sample piece of leather that had already been sewn to see if it affected the color of the stitching. No change at all.

The thing about vinegaroon is that until I put some oil on it, it's just grey. It seems that most don't oil molded holsters....is that true? If so, what do you recommend to get the leather a nice dark black? I was going to try some Bag Kote for a finish coat over the vinegaroon. If I air brush that on, will it turn it black?

How long does it need to dry? Should I put it in the oven or will it air dry enough in about 2 days? And should I leave the gun in it till it's completely dry?

Man, so many questions! When I started doing leatherwork, I didn't realize it could be so involved.

Here's a picture of the test piece I did with vinegaroon. It's a piece I was practicing sewing on.

If you look at the bottom edge you can see how much darker it is. I took my finger and just rubbed a touch of neatsfoot oil on it.

OK, give me your thoughts!

Edited September 4, 2012 by Bobby hdflame

[IngleGunLeather]

Hey bobby! Looks like you got your Cobra Class 4! Congrats! Looking good man. I personally don't bake mine anymore. I think I did one or two that way in the beginning. Now I just let em dry on their own. Now you got me wanting to practice my basket weaving.

[Bobby hdflame]

Hey bobby! Looks like you got your Cobra Class 4! Congrats! Looking good man. I personally don't bake mine anymore. I think I did one or two that way in the beginning. Now I just let em dry on their own. Now you got me wanting to practice my basket weaving.

Thanks. How long do you let them dry? Is there something you look for when it's dry?

I laid out the size and shape of the basketweave on another piece of leather and practiced on it first since it's been a while since I did a basketweave. It looked really good, and I got to use my new mauls from The Bearman.

I hate that I messed up the basketweave on the final piece when I was trying to fit the belt through the loops. I've got to figure out how big to make my loops for a 1/4" thick 1 1/2" belt. I guess I can take a scrap piece and put some different size holes and just experiment. Duh, I should've done tht first! Well, that's why I practiced on some cheap leather first. I still have two brand new pieces of Herman Oak waiting on me!

[Denster]

When it is dry it will no longer feel cool to the touch. Overnight will be more than enough. I believe warming them to 130deg F for at least 30n min or longer will materially add to the firmness of the holster. A quick dip in neatsfoot oil will turn the Vinegaroon jet black and will not harm the holster.

Darn good job for your first one.

[joshk]

just a quick tip.... from the looks of the pic you may need to add a bit more clearance between the top of the holster and the trigger guard/grip area.... it's hard to tell for sure from the pics, but if it's too close you'll have a difficult time getting a full firing grip on the draw....

[Bobby hdflame]

When it is dry it will no longer feel cool to the touch. Overnight will be more than enough. I believe warming them to 130deg F for at least 30n min or longer will materially add to the firmness of the holster. A quick dip in neatsfoot oil will turn the Vinegaroon jet black and will not harm the holster.

Darn good job for your first one.

Thanks. I'm anxious to see how the retention will be in the morning. I was planning on just using a dauber to put some neatsfoot on it. I was scared that the neatsfoot would soften it too much and affect the retention, at least that's what I'd read somewhere.

Edited September 4, 2012 by Bobby hdflame

[Bobby hdflame]

just a quick tip.... from the looks of the pic you may need to add a bit more clearance between the top of the holster and the trigger guard/grip area.... it's hard to tell for sure from the pics, but if it's too close you'll have a difficult time getting a full firing grip on the draw....

Good eye! I meant to mention that in my first post but forgot about it. Can I get it out, yes. Would it be better with a little more clearance, yes.

That will be one of the changes I make on the next one. I think one more out of the cheap leather, then I should be ready for the Herman Oak.

You know, in retrospect, the boning and molding was one of the hardest things to do. I don't think I let the leather get wet enough. Next time I'll put a few drops of Dawn in the water. I saw that in Eric's video, but I got in a hurry and forgot it. He made it look so easy.

I need to make a checklist of things to do until I get used to everything! I've actually done that on some of the upholstery items I make. If you do something out of order, you have to rip out stitches and do it over.

Edited September 4, 2012 by Bobby hdflame

[IngleGunLeather]

Good eye! I meant to mention that in my first post but forgot about it. Can I get it out, yes. Would it be better with a little more clearance, yes.

That will be one of the changes I make on the next one. I think one more out of the cheap leather, then I should be ready for the Herman Oak.

You know, in retrospect, the boning and molding was one of the hardest things to do. I don't think I let the leather get wet enough. Next time I'll put a few drops of Dawn in the water. I saw that in Eric's video, but I got in a hurry and forgot it. He made it look so easy.

I need to make a checklist of things to do until I get used to everything! I've actually done that on some of the upholstery items I make. If you do something out of order, you have to rip out stitches and do it over.

I saw that on his video and have been adding dish soap ever since. And that Tandy leather is by far the worst to mold and it doesn't retain like the HO does.

[Bobby hdflame]

" I saw that on his video and have been adding dish soap ever since. And that Tandy leather is by far the worst to mold and it doesn't retain like the HO does. "

That's good to know. I'm looking forward to working with the HO!

[mlapaglia]

Your vinegaroon may be week or the leather is low on tannins if its only turning gray before you oil it. Mine always turns a just black. I always oil my leather after tooling it or after a vinegaroon treatment. It will not soften up the leather enough to matter. If you dried it in an oven or hot box for 10-15 minutes at 125 degs F it will not change at all with the oil. I have never had a holster go soft after being treated with neatsfoot oil.

It will be fine. As for the slots I use a 5/16 hole punch at each end and then connect the holes with a 1.5" chisel. works great and the belts always fit fine.