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About chiefjason

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    Leatherworker.net Regular

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    Hickory, NC

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  1. I'm molding level 8oz hides for my fronts and using 8-10 oz on the back. I'm not telling you not to go thinner. I'm telling you that you don't have to go thinner. And honestly, I see a lot out there that I feel are too thin for the application. And IMO, 3-4 oz is too thin for anything but micro compacts and mag holders. Heck, I use 5-6 oz for mag holders.
  2. It's a hand made holster. There will be some tool marks. Mold before dying. Leather takes to boning better. Case the holster before molding. Wet but not too wet. Too wet does not hold the molding. If the marks bother you, you can usually lightly burnish them out at the end.
  3. Performance center or aftermarket cylinder release? Those things give me fits on my field holster with strap, similar to what you are doing. If they don't tell me the strap is too short to get over the release and to the snap. Slight point of nomenclature. lol Avengers have a single loop on the rear and forward rake. But lots of folks call almost any folded over holster an Avenger. Some care, some don't. I like the color. I have a thing for browns that are not perfectly colored. Mottled is good IMO. Adds character.
  4. 8/32 or 6/32 T nut and a matching 1/4" Flat head machine screw. The screw type is very important or it will not set into the socket and it will interfere with the female part of the snap. I use 8/32 for all of mine but 6/32 might be easier to source locally. 3/8" might work if you using thicker leather. You can get it away from the blade entirely if you would like. Widen the bottom of the sheath. Punch holes for the screws. Use the T nut to hold the strap on the back and fasten it through the snap on the front. The wrap the strap around to the front and attach the female snap to it. I make horizontal mag holders that wrap around the holder and belt like that. Made one sheath that way too.
  5. Mop & Glo cut with water about 50/50.
  6. I don't question anymore. I just make their dreams come true.
  7. Had a couple tire kickers on the ammo loop addition but no takers until this one. Happy with the result. Been selling a ton of this style for big revolvers but this is the first one with ammo loops. This was for a 6.5" barrel in 500. Something different for the folks that don't want the cross draw.
  8. So, I've let a line of holsters I offer slide for a while. Just not enough time to do everything. Now that I'm catching up I decided to do some of them ready to ship. And those I finish with a brush. So I'm just going to use the scrap stuff up on the hybrid backs and leave the leather alone with M&G. That way I can use it up and not have to worry about messing up a leather holster.
  9. OK, I'll come in and make everyone mad. I use a Ken Onion Worksharp with the free hand attachment and leather strops for it. An 18 degree angle seems to do well on the round knives. 20 on the kitchen knives. I hand sharpened for years. But I love this little machine. Most of the best knife makers in the world use belt sanders to build, shape, and sharpen their knives. Works for me.
  10. So, I normally use Mop and glo 50/50 with water. But I've also got some older resolene around and just picked up some more from buying out a small NC leather worker. I know they are very close in make up. Has anyone used them together? I dip my holsters and I was considering adding the resolene in with the M&G and water to just use it up. But if that's a terrible idea I'll figure something else out. I certainly don't want to mess anything up trying to "save money". Thoughts?
  11. Sight? On the top? You don't need anything. Just keep the leather out of the way. If it's a red dot sight you are over thinking this whole process. If it's a laser/light then check ebay for used models.
  12. Looks great. I'm getting ready to start a couple myself.
  13. I make a field holster that is 8 oz leather wrapped over and 4 8 oz layers for a welt. It's almost an inch thick. I sand the welt square on a sanding drum before gluing it up. I use 2 different grits of drums Glue up the holster Trim the holster Sand again on drum edge Wet sand, 400 and 600 Wet burnish Dye Burnish with tokonole Rub edge with a mix of beeswax and paraffin wax to fill in occlusions. Apply finish I'm not going to claim I can get that thick edge glass smooth all the way around. But it does look good. You can also use edge cote but I've had mixed success and prefer the above method. The edge cote does fill in the gaps and even out nice. But it can flake off with use too.
  14. I use both. Groover if I am cutting before dyeing. Creaser if I dye first and don't want to touch it up. And I usually crease the small pieces I use to cover snaps and such.
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