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chiefjason

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About chiefjason

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    Leatherworker.net Regular

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    Hickory, NC

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  1. Thanks for the help. Much appreciated. Got the shipping notice.
  2. 220, then 2000, then a light water burnish as a start.
  3. Start by getting orders correct. My last 2 were not. You guys have good prices, nice people to deal with, ship quick, but most of my issues are order accuracy or all your website changes. I quit shopping with you because you guys canned my account during a website change. When I went to re register I could not because "that email is being used." Asked to change PW and it would not do that either, so I gave up. Got around the finally getting the account back recently. My last 2 orders have had issues. Your site lists a section where you can buy leather by the side. I ordered a side from that listing. I got 1 sq foot. Apparently ordering a side is not ordering a side unless you request the entire side in the notes? Had to call to get that straightened out. Last order, in the confusion of subbing out 2 8 ox threads because you did not have the 16 oz no one noticed I ordered to Awls as well. I got the subbed out thread but only got one fo the awls I ordered. I will be contacting CS to remedy that one here soon. Everyone is busy, including me. Inaccurate orders are irritating though.
  4. Haha, lasers and lights are different. The most important thing is a clear path OUT of the holster. Even the molds are not all set up for that.
  5. I figure 2 layers of 10 oz would be plenty on the paddle. But Dwight is right. They move around more and don't conceal as well as a pancake, regardless of what you use. And with a leather paddle I would recommend a loop to attach it to the belt. The leather paddle will not grab on the belt/pants like a plastic paddle will. I made one for a Shield. Worked out well. Was pretty comfy. Didn't get any complaints about it. But a pancake is superior in most ways.
  6. Family friend came over to talk to me about a holster. He wanted one just like the holster he bought at Academy, but black with basketweaving. I quoted him $100 IIRC. Which was less than I would regularly quote. He turned the holster over and showed me the $42 price. I turned it over to the Made in Mexico sticker and told him if I had a shop full of kids sewing holsters in Mexico for pennies mine would be $42 too. He bought the holster. And depending on the small alterations I'll sometimes price trying to either turn them away or make sure it's worth the aggravation for me. And either outcome is acceptable to me. You will find out real fast whether they are committed to having those changes made.
  7. I make my own paste that's about the consistency of new shoe polish, or maybe a touch firmer. It's beeswax, parrafin, and neatsfoot oil. Heat it all up, mix it, and cool it. Check consistency. I rub that softer wax on the edges to just fill in the small gaps burnishing does not get. Friction from your finger will work it in. Edge, wet sand (250 and 800), dye, burnish with tokonole, wax, finish.
  8. IMO, and I tell my customers this, it will take a week or so to get the adjustments right to how you want to carry. And that's not part of my job unless there is a big problem. They should be able to remove and replace Chicago Screws on their own. I generally start the holster on myself and adjust it based on what the customer looks like. Let them try it on when they receive it. I''ll tinker with it then, but I'm showing them how to do it and telling them they will want to make adjustments as they wear it. All this is based on a face to face sale. Have you ever worn one of your shoulder holsters? That's where my opinion comes from. It took me the better part of a week to get the holsters set up the way I wanted it. After that I have not touched it in a couple years, other than to oil it once a year on the straps.
  9. I have only done a couple, and find them about a useless as thumb breaks. But T nut, screw, and fuel line cut to length will do it. Placing them in the holster and lining everything up the first time will be enough to break you of wanting to do it again.
  10. Closest I have seen is treating it with vinegroon. And it's a pretty good hassle. But seems to change the qualities of the leather to really repel water from what I noticed. Other than that or the wax, try horse hide. Or possibly look into some of the hot stuffed leather that is treated at the tannery. The bridle leather is hard enough to case that I gave up on getting it wet enough to mold well.
  11. toothbrush handle for molding holsters. Drill press gets lots of use. Biggest one is probably chucking an awl in there and pre punching holes to hand stitch. Heat gun to dry glue and apply wax. I use scrap leather to spread glue. I use a 1" punch and a smaller punch for the center of the leather washers I make from scrap. I use a lot for IWB holsters.
  12. Try the pro oil dye. I have had no issues since switching to it years ago.
  13. I use one of these. https://www.amazon.com/Leather-Paint-Roller-Craft-Applicator/dp/B07NBTCGP9
  14. I refer to those mistakes as "Ready to ship holsters". lol. I have a box of them I need to list for Christmas.
  15. 10 years in and I still use a toothbrush handle as part of my set of tools to mold holsters.
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