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About chiefjason

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    Leatherworker.net Regular

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    Hickory, NC

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  1. Did similar with the straps recently. Going to make a shoulder rig to carry my .357 hunting with them now. I don't care if it rubs off on the hunting gear. And I was using Olive oil, just used too much. Those straps sure are nice and soft though. The customer got all new straps. To the OP, try the resolene. If you used a light coat it might work. It stopped about 90% of the rub off after I over oiled my straps. I was surprised it did that much after Mop and Glo did nothing to stop it.
  2. Consistent leather? I've delivered $6,000 sofas with bug bites and barbed wire scars, even a few brands. Leather is a natural product. Used in that state, it will have some defects. If you want defect free you are looking at very selective cutting to avoid that, which increases waste. Or manipulating the process to hide or remove defects. Or a man made product. Some people not only understand that, they appreciate it. Other folks would be better served with man made products that are flawless or paying considerably more because the maker has to throw out more leather to only use the flawless parts of it. To me, the more perfect the leather seems the less natural it also seems.
  3. Oh yeah. Had a guy show me a mass produced holster he bought. He wanted something similar but they did not carry the color he wanted. He also wanted some tooling. I quoted him $100 since there would be a decent amount of hand tooling, and that WAS my family friend, local, cash discount price. He showed me the $42 price. I showed him the made in Mexico sticker and told him if I could pay someone pennies to do the work mine would be $42 too. He paid.
  4. Don't compete with cheap stuff. Don't compete for cheap customers. I'm not the best at that but I price my stuff based on my time, experience, quality, etc. Usually, if anyone takes the time to compare you can see the differences you are paying for. I'm not going to give my time away. I sell some of my simpler and cheaper stuff on ebay. Occasionally someone tries to make an offer if I forget to remove that option. I always turn them down. They always get mad and don't order. But I'm not accepting a low ball bid where I break even. Some customers you probably don't want. It's not a popular opinion but over the years I've developed a sense for it. And it usually involves trying to haggle down my price or asking for lots of options I'm not offering.
  5. This is true BUT If they are similar enough dimensionally that underlug could be built up easier than building a new mold.
  6. Let the leather dry thoroughly. Usually a few hours. Pull off extra thread, the ends get most of the transfer Keep the needles close to the ends, the thread at the needle gets a lot of dye. If your thread is soft look for a hard bonded nylon thread, The bonded coating does not pick up as much.
  7. I use 346 bonded nylon. Finally found a new source for the hard bonded natural. All my normal places have gone to soft bonded and it frays more than I like.
  8. Your 3.5 oz leather is the issue. They are using 8-9 oz shoulders. Thin leather will shrink more noticeably than thicker leather. But I'll sometimes have 8 oz shrink enough to surprise me after drying a molded holster front.
  9. Serrated shears and hide the edges under a layer of leather.
  10. I use an awl chucked into a drill to punch my stitch holes in most of my stuff. On thick welts I do use a drill for the holes. I doubt an awl would go through that many layers straight. Actually don't see much of a difference in the two.
  11. Less traditional. I've been out of archery for a while. Finally got some of my back/neck issues settled down and decided to start shooting again. But the strap on my release was starting to fall apart. So I worked up this quick fix in about 45 minutes from rough pattern to glue. Then hand stitched it later. it's working quite well so far. I just cut my old release apart to use as my pattern. Might go back and build another later just to clean it up a bit.
  12. I have a shoe rack in my dryer that I use. 2 holsters get an hour. Single holster 40-50 minutes. The way I do holsters the heat can change the mold a bit so I put weights on the sides to keep them flat.
  13. Good news, bad news. Good news. That little wrap of leather at the bottom will hold the gun up for a while. Bad news. It probably won't hold it as long as you think it will. Good news. You'll want to make another holster at some point anyway. When I build for lights/lasers I always close the toe under the accessory. The holster need a shelf somewhere to keep the gun from falling down to the grip in the holster. That is usually the trigger guard. When you add an accessory you take that shelf away. The only place to put one is to wrap the bottom of the holster and close part of the toe for a shelf. Left open, there is a possibility the holster softens with use and the gun just starts to work it's way deeper into the holster.
  14. Yeah, this is a feature not a bug. Really want to have fun? Force dry the leather in an oven, dryer, or drying box.
  15. Oxblood/burgundy and black is always a good choice.
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