chiefjason

I don't use suede because of the possibility of holding dirt. The chrome tan is a non issue. There are some well respected companies that make certain IWB holsters exclusively out of chrome tanned leather with no issue. If you are worried about longevity go with the shoulder.

I've done several and love them. Even carried a couple of them handle down with just the magnet for retention. My Esse 4 has riden on the back seat of my truck, handle down, for years and never fell out. And I have a sheath on my shoulder holster as well. I use the small rare earth magnets. A couple small rounds ones are usually enough. But if you want more the rectangular ones are very strong.

So I'm working with some stingray and wanted to test this. This is Feibings Pro Oil Black. No deglaze. Just straight dye, one coat, on a scrap edge of a hide. No finish on the hide from me and assuming none from the tannery,. I think I'll dye this hide and use the rest of it as black now. That said, dyeing a new piece is far easier than trying to dye a finished piece.

Ask if they can holster the hide. Might just be with Veg tan but I have mine holstered to smooth out the back. I've not ordered English bridle from them but Weaver's leather has some of the smoothest flesh sides I.have found on their dyed veg tan.

Sometimes it's best to walk away. I think this is one of those times. FYI, it's always more work to "fix" a thing than it is to make it. Charge accordingly.

Glue and Stitch the panels on. Wet the leather and let it sit a few minutes. Bend to shape. Let dry in that shape. Glue and stitch the edge.

No. I ordered it from PanAm Leather.

Thanks. It's a horizontal that snaps onto the belt. 2 straps with pull the dot snaps on the back. Been using them for years and love the horizontal carry. Thanks. Handstitched. I could see chips breaking and being an issue. The sight is really interesting. I like it. It's not magic or foolproof but once you learn to find it it's a lot of fun. I love my 75b but the weight was starting to be an issue. Especially on the belt. Shoulder holster was not as bad.

Finally put an optic on my P365 XMACRO and decided I wanted to start carrying it. So it needs a holster. And a guy that makes holsters should carry something that shows off his skills. And I had this stingray left from another project, so...... Wore it yesterday and it wears great. And it's much lighter than my CZ75b. Which is nice. Main lesson learned was that HVAC snips are the trick for easily cutting stingray. And this pic on Facebook got an order for the same holster for a standard P365. So looks like I'll get one holster with the spine, 3 holsters, and one mag holder out of the rest. Not bad.

Is there one mold? No. Can you make a pattern that might accommodate several pistols? Maybe. What you are doing is not the same as what some of us are doing. I mold my holsters to a specific model. I don't do close enough. But a lot of the artsy stuff seems to be more close enough. So you have that going for you. So look for pistols that have similar frames, trigger guards, and widths. But you will still need to have multiple molds to make even that work.

I wax mine then dip twice in M&G. Been doing that almost 10 years. I usually do one coat of atom wax last. After 2 coats the finish is kind of dull and the atom wax brings back just enough shine but not enough to look like its plastic. Probably overkill but it works for me and everyone likes the look.

Position, yes. Strap length, no. Set the male snap last. It's a bit of mental annoyance doing the most important thing last and possibly screwing it up. But that's what I do. Cut the strap long. Mark the hole. Set the snap. Trim the strap. Ship it. My current one I did set the female snap in the thumb break before assembling the holster. Have not finished it but was certainly easier than setting it after it's constructed. FYI, I've been known to do things backwards but it all works out in the end. lol

Based on some forum snooping the Security 9 compact is the same frame. But the .380 has that funky cutout on the front of the slide. Headed to Etsy to change some listings. lol

Thick welts are the one thing were I will drill stitch holes. The drill bit wanders around less than an awl, at least for me. And if you go back over the holes and crease or groove them they don't stand out any more than normal.

Got at least one size that's pretty close. https://www.knifekits.com/vcom/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=chicago+screw

Buy a thin hard case and use that as a mold. Good chance you could do the above by turning the case upside down so the solid back is where the pressure of the leather goes. It's what I use when someone want's a belt case. I you want it solid you could probably fill it with expanding foam and trim the foam flush.

You still refuse to quite get it when you try to make snarky points. I don't use resolene for the SAME REASON you don't want to use it. It's creates that plastic look. I do use M&G for the opposite reason, because it DOES NOT produce the plastic look that you also don't want. Which was one of your reasons for looking at other sealers. The differences in the two are a feature for me, not a bug. I don't care what it's sold for. it does exactly what I want it too. You care too much what it's sold for, even if it DOES NOT do what you want it too. Your belligerent nature in sticking to your guns is impressive though.

That's the one. I mix it 50/50 with water to thin it.

We've done the experimentation for you. Proved it works fine. Are willing to tell you exactly what we do. Yet here were are. You are stuck in the mud with your position. At this point it's just the most exciting thing going around here right now. lol. So I'll play along until I get too busy to bother. $40? Since money seems to be a thing with you I dipped $800 worth of holsters the other day prepping them to ship for Christmas. Absolute non issue again. Shocking I know. I don't use Mop and Glo on my floors silly, so I would not use Resolen either. M&G is for holsters at my house. FYI, I hate resolene anyway. Because of all the things you listed that you DID NOT WANT in a leather sealer. I use M&G because it's all the things I do want in a leather sealer. And all the things you want as well, minus that one hang up that you can't see your way around. I've had resolene crack when applied full strength a number of times. And it looks like I spray painted my leather with clear coat. Yuk. This is what it looks like on leather. Dipped twice. Buffed with Atom wax. The dipping is part of my love of M&G too. I can buy it by the case for slightly more than 32 oz of resolene. I get 6 times as much. So I can dip my holsters instead of brush the finish on.

You are overthinking it. The main issue with striker fired guns is that the USER needs to be familiar with the operation and what to pay attention to. Oddly, you should pay attention to a lot of those details with a gun that has a safety, but the safety can just let you get away with some mistakes if it's engaged. How you holster. How you draw. Where the trigger finger goes. All that is important. Just more so with a striker fired gun. As to trigger pull, you have just not shot enough guns. My SA CZ 75b trigger pull is about half, or less what my Glock 19 is. Reset is nearly non existent. And take up is incredibly short. You can actually do more work to a SA trigger than you can a striker fired gun. I've got about $120 in parts in the trigger and it is SWEEEEEET!!! Also, with revolvers it is nearly impossible to fire one in a holster. The cylinder would be very difficult to impossible to rotate to get it to fire while holstered. To some of your thoughts above. Stiff leather, yes. Covered, yes to the trigger. You can have some of the trigger guard rear of the trigger exposed and it's sometimes necessary to clear a good grip on the gun. Strap? Unnecessary for CC IMO. I lovingly refer to thumb breaks as suicide straps. A well fitted holster will not allow the gun to come out. The holster that's made its way around the net, I bet it was treated with too much oil and got soft. But I have seen makers use leather that is thin enough to make me nervous. I use at least 8 oz veg tan on all but my pocket holsters.

Then if you use ANY liquid sealant you're just using repurposed, more expensive Mop & Glo. That's the ridiculous part, but you just refuse to listen. The MSD sheet, which is the ingredient list, is nearly identical. You choose to believe the internet about it cracking. Which no one here seems to have experienced. But refuse to believe any of the positive experience here. I'll take a stab at it that as many folks here have positive experiences as the number of negative one's you have encounters on the net. And if I had to guess the cracking is from two reasons, either applying without diluting or cheap leather. FWIW, I've had dedicated sealant crack when applied full strength. But mostly I've had cheap leather that cracked. I'm guessing you don't use generic medicine either? I guess you've picked your side and refuse to even consider changing. OK. But our suggestions meet the criteria of your first post. And meet it better than ANYTHING else I have used. Which is why I use it. You changed your initial criteria as soon as M&G was mentioned, even thought it meets what you wanted initially. I mean, you get to do that. And I get to think your obstinance is silly and unnecessary if you would try to listen to those more experienced than you. Which is what we thought you wanted. Guess we were wrong there.

You asked for alternatives then argued with the answers. lol Been using Mop and glo for 10 years. Not one customer has contacted me about the finish cracking. I use 2 dips. It's dulls so much I use some atom wax to bring it up to a neutral finish. $25 leather? I'm dipping $250 holsters in it without a second thought or a single issue. But hey, you do whatever you want to.

It's water resistant to 6 meters. Wet molding should not be an issue. Or you can buy a thin hard case and mold with that.

So you keyhole your belt loops. So do I. I gave up on beveling the top and bottom years ago. I only bevel the straight edges. Put a pencil or dowel rod in the hole to stop the beveler from cutting into the round edge. At the end push it down into the slot to cut off the strip. Then burnish it a little to clean it up.

The Xdm 45 mold will work. Or there is a 5.25" 10mm mold out too. Check holstersmith.