chiefjason

Closest I have seen is treating it with vinegroon. And it's a pretty good hassle. But seems to change the qualities of the leather to really repel water from what I noticed. Other than that or the wax, try horse hide. Or possibly look into some of the hot stuffed leather that is treated at the tannery. The bridle leather is hard enough to case that I gave up on getting it wet enough to mold well.

toothbrush handle for molding holsters. Drill press gets lots of use. Biggest one is probably chucking an awl in there and pre punching holes to hand stitch. Heat gun to dry glue and apply wax. I use scrap leather to spread glue. I use a 1" punch and a smaller punch for the center of the leather washers I make from scrap. I use a lot for IWB holsters.

Try the pro oil dye. I have had no issues since switching to it years ago.

I use one of these. https://www.amazon.com/Leather-Paint-Roller-Craft-Applicator/dp/B07NBTCGP9

I refer to those mistakes as "Ready to ship holsters". lol. I have a box of them I need to list for Christmas.

10 years in and I still use a toothbrush handle as part of my set of tools to mold holsters.

IMO, a loaded gun that's loose in your pants OR on the floor is a bad situation. One of the reasons for a holster is security. If the design does not meet that criteria what is the point? Trying to hastily grab for a loaded gun that is falling into your pants can lead to some very bad outcomes.

I measure from the fold for the buckle to the most used hole on their current belt. That gives me a starting point. Then on the blank that measurement gets transferred to the HALF WAY POINT of the buckle slot to the middle of the hole pattern I'm using. And with gun belts I usually fudge that measurement about +1" or so. And I tend to use a 9 hole pattern and a bit of a longer tongue since most folks buying a belt from me are to match and OWB holster of mine. A bit too long is more tolerable than too short. The last time that happened I asked the guy to measure the belt and the idiot gave me his waist size. He could not even get to the first hole in the belt. If the belt is for you, I'd guess you cut or transferred the measurement wrong. If it's for someone else, I bet they gave you their pants size.

If you use a loop for the IWB holster the magnet just attaches to itself as a replacement for a snap. If he want's something to attach the holster to his pants via a magnet he want's a miracle. I've learned that sometimes the best thing to tell a prospective customer with a ridiculous request is "No." An explanation and guidance in a better direction might get you a sale and and easier build. If you do try it I would not bury the magnet under any leather. That leaves just the pants material to deal with. They make magnets with flared holes that should be capable of mounting to a T nut that is buried in the holster.

The first pic looks like marks from handling the side. The second might be the same but hard to tell. The third looks like a scar. If you are going to tool it or mold it the handling marks will most likely be fine. If they are not deep, they might not show after being dyed. If they are deep you can try to wet the area and burnish it a bit with something smooth to see if you can remove them. The scar is what it is. Use it or cut around it, your call.

Boise Foundry has a 629 with 4" barrel and several other N frames that should work. Probably as close as you are going to get. N frames are hard to find. I have one plastic molded and another inbound from Boise. Boise is a little tricky to order from, but they are responsive to calls if you need to talk to them. Dave has called me twice on this order because it got messed up in their system when I tried to order 2 molds. https://www.boisefoundry.com/holster-molds

Thanks. The stitching was what kept me away from it for a while. In the end, I figured trying to stop it, and stamp borders around all that would be too much. And leaving the middle of the stitch open would not look good. So I took some time to groove the stitch line enough to set it in there nice instead of letting it ride on top. Oddly, I've turned down most of the requests to basketweave holsters. Partly, it doesn't do much for me either. And mostly, I never could figure out how to do it with the way I assemble and mold my holsters. I changed how I assembled these to allow me to BW it first. As a plus, the new method of assembling them makes all of them easier to build with or without BW.

Been wanting to try this for a while now. I've been down or on light duty with a minor surgery now for a few weeks. I got caught up on orders and decided to give this a go. I also ran out of 8-10 oz leather for holster backs and then ran out of 8 oz leather for these. Anything gun related has gone insane lately. Anyway. Full basketweave stamping of my Field holster for a Colt Python and S&W 686 both 6" barrels. I'm thrilled with how it came out. Hoping a couple folks are thrilled enough to buy them now.

If you are setting the male part you can mount them with 8/32 or 6/32 screws and T nuts. YOU will need a flat head machine screw to not interfere with the snap. And they are flared under the head to fit into the snap. Any hardware store with a good selection of screws should have them. Like this in the appropriate length. https://smile.amazon.com/Stainless-Lengths-Available-Machine-Phillips/dp/B07B42BCXK/ref=sr_1_7?crid=1NOWI6JAZ349G&dchild=1&keywords=Screws&pd_rd_r=f54226da-37d7-4f8d-8ac3-9c8f61491114&pd_rd_w=yJSXi&pd_rd_wg=rN7IC&pf_rd_p=91473338-a775-4a82-9600-6767cae1f29a&pf_rd_r=SQN0WHZEG1SC6W1MKH98&pid=wCcB0iM&qid=1604256465&refinements=p_n_feature_two_browse-bin%3A2292860011%2Cp_n_feature_fourteen_browse-bin%3A11433961011&s=industrial&sprefix=8%2F32+flat+head+%2Caps%2C167&sr=1-7

The front of my holsters are 8 oz veg tan. Wet leather. Case in bag for 15 minutes. Mold. Dry in dryer on shoe rack for 40 minutes for a single or an hour for two.

Email Duncan's and check there. Boise Foundry does not show one. Duncan's never lists their inventory on the site though, you have to email them for it. https://duncansoutdoor.com/duncans-customs/

Your work flow might be off. I finish with an acrylic sealer (2 coats) then was with Atom wax. The wax brings back a bit of the shine. Next time seal first, then wax.

I use 8-10 oz for my backs and level 8 oz on the front. If the holster is one piece of leather it's 8 oz.

I like it!

Try the Pro Oil version next go around. I do a lot of black holster and no rub off on the finish. Oxblood is the one that give me fits with rub off.

Resolene it. It won't hurt it at this point. What kind of dye? I use Feibings Pro Oil Black and no problems with bleeding. The USMC black was the worst for bleeding.

Order direct from W&C. I order a lot of leather from them and never seen anything like that. Also, you can't bet on consistency until you start ordering sides. Ordering by Square foot is always a bit of a crap shoot. One order might be 100% usable. Then next 30% belly and unusable. And W&C is pretty backed up. I'm waiting on a couple sides the I need to complete my order with them. Ordered 2 weeks ago thinking I had enough time since I just started one of the sides. Then orders went nuts, they are behind, and I'm out of a leather weight I have to have. Everyone in the industry is having supply issue as far as I can tell. I've had to change hardware for some of my stuff too because my normal stuff is always back ordered. Crazy times.

Looks good. Those little buggers have a lot of weird spaces and edges to work around for sure. I made a few in kydex and it was a nightmare. Best not to mold them too much.

I have about 8 oz veg tan glued to a 2x4 piece. Grain on one side, flesh with compound on the other. If you are glueing it to wood you could go with a lighter weight but I would not go lower than about 6 oz. I would look for some type of craft strip for the wood. Pay a bit more but you don't have to do a lot of cutting. Then just glue them on with contact cement. If you are adding these complimentary make them functional, but don't over think or over work it. If you are selling in addition to the knife then the sky is the limit and you could offer different price points for different materials or amount of work involved.

346 Bonded nylon. And I pull off 6X the length of the stitch line for my stitching for a normal holster. If I welt a piece I add length to that.