chiefjason

Got at least one size that's pretty close. https://www.knifekits.com/vcom/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=chicago+screw

Buy a thin hard case and use that as a mold. Good chance you could do the above by turning the case upside down so the solid back is where the pressure of the leather goes. It's what I use when someone want's a belt case. I you want it solid you could probably fill it with expanding foam and trim the foam flush.

You still refuse to quite get it when you try to make snarky points. I don't use resolene for the SAME REASON you don't want to use it. It's creates that plastic look. I do use M&G for the opposite reason, because it DOES NOT produce the plastic look that you also don't want. Which was one of your reasons for looking at other sealers. The differences in the two are a feature for me, not a bug. I don't care what it's sold for. it does exactly what I want it too. You care too much what it's sold for, even if it DOES NOT do what you want it too. Your belligerent nature in sticking to your guns is impressive though.

That's the one. I mix it 50/50 with water to thin it.

We've done the experimentation for you. Proved it works fine. Are willing to tell you exactly what we do. Yet here were are. You are stuck in the mud with your position. At this point it's just the most exciting thing going around here right now. lol. So I'll play along until I get too busy to bother. $40? Since money seems to be a thing with you I dipped $800 worth of holsters the other day prepping them to ship for Christmas. Absolute non issue again. Shocking I know. I don't use Mop and Glo on my floors silly, so I would not use Resolen either. M&G is for holsters at my house. FYI, I hate resolene anyway. Because of all the things you listed that you DID NOT WANT in a leather sealer. I use M&G because it's all the things I do want in a leather sealer. And all the things you want as well, minus that one hang up that you can't see your way around. I've had resolene crack when applied full strength a number of times. And it looks like I spray painted my leather with clear coat. Yuk. This is what it looks like on leather. Dipped twice. Buffed with Atom wax. The dipping is part of my love of M&G too. I can buy it by the case for slightly more than 32 oz of resolene. I get 6 times as much. So I can dip my holsters instead of brush the finish on.

You are overthinking it. The main issue with striker fired guns is that the USER needs to be familiar with the operation and what to pay attention to. Oddly, you should pay attention to a lot of those details with a gun that has a safety, but the safety can just let you get away with some mistakes if it's engaged. How you holster. How you draw. Where the trigger finger goes. All that is important. Just more so with a striker fired gun. As to trigger pull, you have just not shot enough guns. My SA CZ 75b trigger pull is about half, or less what my Glock 19 is. Reset is nearly non existent. And take up is incredibly short. You can actually do more work to a SA trigger than you can a striker fired gun. I've got about $120 in parts in the trigger and it is SWEEEEEET!!! Also, with revolvers it is nearly impossible to fire one in a holster. The cylinder would be very difficult to impossible to rotate to get it to fire while holstered. To some of your thoughts above. Stiff leather, yes. Covered, yes to the trigger. You can have some of the trigger guard rear of the trigger exposed and it's sometimes necessary to clear a good grip on the gun. Strap? Unnecessary for CC IMO. I lovingly refer to thumb breaks as suicide straps. A well fitted holster will not allow the gun to come out. The holster that's made its way around the net, I bet it was treated with too much oil and got soft. But I have seen makers use leather that is thin enough to make me nervous. I use at least 8 oz veg tan on all but my pocket holsters.

Then if you use ANY liquid sealant you're just using repurposed, more expensive Mop & Glo. That's the ridiculous part, but you just refuse to listen. The MSD sheet, which is the ingredient list, is nearly identical. You choose to believe the internet about it cracking. Which no one here seems to have experienced. But refuse to believe any of the positive experience here. I'll take a stab at it that as many folks here have positive experiences as the number of negative one's you have encounters on the net. And if I had to guess the cracking is from two reasons, either applying without diluting or cheap leather. FWIW, I've had dedicated sealant crack when applied full strength. But mostly I've had cheap leather that cracked. I'm guessing you don't use generic medicine either? I guess you've picked your side and refuse to even consider changing. OK. But our suggestions meet the criteria of your first post. And meet it better than ANYTHING else I have used. Which is why I use it. You changed your initial criteria as soon as M&G was mentioned, even thought it meets what you wanted initially. I mean, you get to do that. And I get to think your obstinance is silly and unnecessary if you would try to listen to those more experienced than you. Which is what we thought you wanted. Guess we were wrong there.

You asked for alternatives then argued with the answers. lol Been using Mop and glo for 10 years. Not one customer has contacted me about the finish cracking. I use 2 dips. It's dulls so much I use some atom wax to bring it up to a neutral finish. $25 leather? I'm dipping $250 holsters in it without a second thought or a single issue. But hey, you do whatever you want to.

It's water resistant to 6 meters. Wet molding should not be an issue. Or you can buy a thin hard case and mold with that.

So you keyhole your belt loops. So do I. I gave up on beveling the top and bottom years ago. I only bevel the straight edges. Put a pencil or dowel rod in the hole to stop the beveler from cutting into the round edge. At the end push it down into the slot to cut off the strip. Then burnish it a little to clean it up.

The Xdm 45 mold will work. Or there is a 5.25" 10mm mold out too. Check holstersmith.

Those are range scars. Cows live in fields. Field have trees, briars, other cows, and barbed wire fences. Cows get scars like we do. Used to deliver mid to high end furniture. I've seen scars, fat wrinkles, bug bites, and brands. And no joke, if you WANT a brand it will cost you extra. I'm sitting on a Randall Allen leather chair. It had marks 20 years ago and it's got more now. Same with the Bradington and Young recliner. If either were perfect I'd have more questions.

Well done on the rig. But your buddy stamped a single shot? Got a buddy that made one similar for an SBS 870.

Finish the holster that needs to ship in a couple days only to realize you didn't cut and die the strap you have to attach to actually finish it.

I bet you are using USMC black. It's awful. If you are that's your problems. Fiebings Pro oil black is much better. Then pull out a lot more thread than normal. Let the extra thread on the end take on any excess dye.

Been wearing these while edging and cutting for years. I'm sure they have paid for themselves in keeping me out of the ER a few times. My first pair was given to me by a customer. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08ZSHMWL7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Yeah, you have a standard. You can have it. You can continue to have it. I'm pointing this out for folks that might stumble on this to give them a counter point. You said a guy can take away any size gun on a clip by taking the holster and gun. You say a $5 holster will stay put and allow you to draw the gun. Which seems to mean it has the ability to retain the holster on the belt during the draw. I'm saying if the bad guy can draw the gun from the holster how it's attached is pretty irrelevant. The weak point in the system is not the clip, it's the retention. Your looped holster has that exact same weakness. I think you are over selling the clip issue and underselling the obvious issue that they can just draw the gun itself. Which you can continue to do if you like. I'm just not a fan of burdening other makers with something that seems pretty irrelevant.

So, if the holster does not come out with the clip on the draw then it's not easier to get the holster than it is to get the gun. Maybe that's a better way to explain it. Guess that's the pro. If you can draw the gun and the holster stays put then the attachment is pretty irrelevant. The gun is coming out first. If you draw the gun and the holster comes out, then you have an issue to fix. Clips are also fast to attach and easy to deal with. I've had older customers struggle with DOT snaps. They can take some breaking in. For the maker, clips are cheap. And sometimes cheaper to replace depending on how they are mounted. There are clips I won't use that are not suitable for holsters or for what I need in a clip. But that silver style of clip is not one of them. I use them a lot for clip on mag holders as well. On a decent gun belt they get a solid grip on the bottom of the belt. Not as good as the nylon ones I use on the holsters but it take some prying to get the mag holders off. And I'm not even sure where that Serpa is anymore. I think it's behind the seat of my truck as a backup. Then again, the G19 is a backup gun and that's what it fits.

It's not easier IMO. I'm saying it's all the same. You mentioned earlier not thinking full circle. So how hard is it to actually draw from one of your loop holsters? I'm assuming as a level 1 holster it's just friction. Meaning about the same effort as removing a clipped holster and gun. Taking a concealed clipped on IWB holster from someone or drawing a gun from a concealed OWB holster; or even a looped on IWB holster is all about the same. My IWB leather uses mostly nylon clips and they are downright annoying to remove when I want to take them off. I use loops too. I do whatever the customer wants because I see no difference in safety. If someone has gotten that close and gotten their hands on the gun or holster is not the holster maker that has failed here. In the end I don't care what you or anyone else uses. I just think your argument is false and only half thought through. The other half being, exactly how hard is it to just draw a holstered firearm? And is that draw stroke more difficult than removing a clipped on holster? I don't think it is. Personally, if I'm going for a gun I'm going for the gun. Not the holster. I don't care how it's attached.

What's the difference in that or them just drawing it from your holster? It's about the same amount of force for a level 1 holster. Which most CC holsters are. And someone with just a little skill can do it with a retention holster. Had a cop take mine out of a SERPA scary fast. And before anyone gets wound up he asked and I agreed since I needed the accident report he was getting ready to fill out for me. And he was cool about the entire thing as well. I would have had it secured but he got there way faster than I expected and I was outside the car.

You can also add a round patch to the front to mount the screw in. That would do the same thing as a liner but not as large a piece to work with. But it would have to be stitched on before assembly of the sheath. If you line it the only additional stitching is to stitch.the liner at the mouth. It's not much work really. The outside stitch lines are enough for the rest of the sheath. And no-one says you have to line both sides. When I use magnets in my sheaths I just line the side to cover the magnets. The other side is usually unlined unless there is a reason to do it.

Cool. I was coming across different French cleats. Those look like a better option than what I found.

You might have to piece them together. Which means finding them in person. Top is a U shaped connector. For the bottom you could use a free floating shelf bracket that would fit into said connector. Look into French cleats too. Not sure the cleat would give you the stability you need though.

I talked to 2 of the CS folks with one tannery and one large distributor. The tannery lost most of their employees during Covid. Or at least a serious percentage. That's a lot of institutional memory and experience that is just gone. That's when I also really started noticing the quality dropping. And I've talked the the my rep about the change in temper in their leather. I just got a side of a different leather from them but have not used it yet. The distributor flat out told me that one of the tanneries no longer sells them their top quality leather. One of the biggest retailers in the country and one of the biggest tanneries won't sell them their top grade leather. Crazy. That same tannery produced the leather I got from a different distributor that was so hard I could barely mold it. And that was their tannery run grade which is all that company carries. It would probably be easier to just throw the names in there but there's a chance all 3 places are getting screwed in this process as well with employees losses and supply issues. It's a mess.

Those goofy packs just scream gun to anyone that knows what they are looking for. I find them humorous. I've seen a few in the wild. Pretty easy to pick out really. But hey, if they want it and you can sell it go for it. Me printing with a CZ 75B and someone carrying a .380 in what looks like an iPad mini case seem like the same thing to me.