My First Moccasin With The Welted Method

[PattiN]

I used the tutorial from this site: seamlyne

Things I learned:

1. Don't put glue on the entire sole because it shows when you turn the moccasin right side out.

2. Be very consistent with the width of the welt. (I would welcome tips on how to do that!)

Things I am trying to figure out, so if anyone can give suggestions, please do so:

1. Why my front piece (the light brown) came out shorter than the rest of the moccasin, and why it angled down. I thought I had measured that pretty carefully.

2. Minimizing the thickness of the 3 or 4 layers of leather on the inside so that it does not bother the foot. I skived it, but maybe not enough. Other hints there?

I hope I can attached these pictures correctly! :-)

Thanks!

Patti

[Wishful]

I'd be proud! Nice.

[Sylvia]

That is definitely a superior tutorial. Did you make your front tabbed piece from the card stock pattern you made? Or did you use the tape? Also have you tried this on.... it might be that the angle is just because there is not a foot in there to hold it straight.

Edited September 19, 2012 by Sylvia

[PattiN]

I cut the leather from the card stock pattern, not the tape. Yes, it does the same thing even when there is a foot in it. I am making this for a friend of mine, and his foot is bigger than mine. Even so, when I tug on the front piece, it just doesn't come up as high as the other side. Hmmmm...

And thank you Sylvia for pointing me to that tutorial!

[rscow]

Saw your post, and became inspired. I have made a pair of mocs, but not this style, and they are....interesting. But I would like to make a pair like this. The tutorial is great. I had a question about the welt, though, and maybe someone can help.

If you glue down the welt around the outsole, as shown, sew the upper to the sole, and then turn the shoe right side out...you don't get a rolled welt, do you? It seems you just have a flat piece of leather showing. Or am I wrong?

Yours looks rolled. Did you do something different? I suppose one could take thin leather, fold and forge it, then glue it in as welt with the fold part innermost.

Is that how it's done?

Thanks,

Roger

[paradoxbox]

About your front piece not fitting properly, when you are putting the pieces together (before sewing) you need to make sure that it fits at that point. Then, when you are preparing to sew, you need to glue it into place using the same curve or shape that the boot will be in when someone's foot is in it. THEN and ONLY then can you sew it together.

I had a few similar problems when making my first shoe and the problem was down to me not putting the top piece of leather on following the curve of the shoe correctly. The result was something that fit the pattern but didn't fit properly on the shoe.

Lastly if it comes down to it and you want to make another pair, try wrapping the boots in plastic wrap then taping over them (with your foot in them) with masking tape. Overlay the front piece of the pattern and see if it matches - if it doesn't, with a pencil draw a new pattern in a shape that fits on the masking tape with pencil, cut it out and replace the old pattern piece with it.

Edited November 9, 2012 by paradoxbox

[educatedcobbler]

nice one , bravo

[ebdavison]

These look quite nice. What kind of leather did you use for the uppers? I made a pair with veg tan which was pretty easy to work with but is not as soft and comfortable as I would like. DId you use chrome tan? oil tan? What is the proper choice for these sort of mocs?

Also, did you use pre-stained leather or did you dye your own?