Members particle Posted October 12, 2012 Members Report Posted October 12, 2012 (edited) So, I received my new Sig P938 Bluegun dummy yesterday and was sad to see it was a non cocked & locked version. There were no photos posted of the dummy at the time I ordered it that I was aware of, so didn't think to verify before ordering. With my 3" 1911 dummy, I used a wood chisel to remove the disengaged safety, then purchased an extended safety from Midway and "installed" it myself on the dummy. Looking at the Midway site this morning, there isn't a part available for it yet. I suppose I could fabricate something out of wood temporarily, but was just curious if any of you creative folk have done something similar on another dummy and could share some tips and tricks with the rest of us. Edited October 12, 2012 by particle Quote
Members renegadelizard Posted October 12, 2012 Members Report Posted October 12, 2012 Do it the same way, seperate the safety with a sharp chisel and contact cement it on in the "safe position"..you could also drill a hole in the pivot point location before cutting it off and install a dowel, that way you could move it into either position...jb weld is another option for building one up..get the jb roll though as it is much easier to work with... Quote
Members particle Posted October 12, 2012 Author Members Report Posted October 12, 2012 Have you removed one with a chisel and reinstalled the removed portion? I wasn't sure I could remove it in one piece without destroying it. Sees like it'd take multiple shaving passes instead of one slice at the base - at least my 1911 3" was that way because it was so wide. Can't remember how big the base of this P938 is. JB Weld putty is a great idea! Quote
Members renegadelizard Posted October 12, 2012 Members Report Posted October 12, 2012 you may be right with the one pice removal, it may be too hard to flex enough to pare off...another option is one of those survivor saws...basically a rough wire thing, they used to be included in the rambo knifes..something like that to saw it off and still keep the saw kerf small...maybe a hot wire, like a styrofoam cutter would work as well..but i think jb would be the least time consuming...let me know how it works as im getting ready to order one of those blue guns as well.. Quote
Members particle Posted October 12, 2012 Author Members Report Posted October 12, 2012 Yeah, I think with the thickness of the slide, the grip thickness - there wouldn't be a whole lot of room for any tools to get in there without mangling the rest of the surrounding area. I think I'll just model up a new safety with the JB putty - probably the easiest approach. May try adhering a piece to the top while I'm at it for a molded sight channel. So far I've just been using plastic coat hangers cut to fit. Works, but would like to try something better & permanent so I don't have to tape a dowel to the top every time I form with it. Quote
Members renegadelizard Posted October 12, 2012 Members Report Posted October 12, 2012 ive thought alot on sight channels...depending on the height of the sight, i light the lcp for example, i dont even bother...when i do need one, i cut more of a long square piece about 3/16 wide and tape that on..it seems to stay put better than the round dowels...i like the idea of having one on the gun permanently... Quote
Members husker Posted October 12, 2012 Members Report Posted October 12, 2012 (edited) I have run into this with the Tokarev dummy gun, the safety was actually in a different location on the gun altogether so I was able to cut it off with a little work and I glued it into place and it has stayed and worked fine since but Its not one that I get a lot of orders for, maybe just a few a year. If I remember right I was able to use a razor blade in a slightly modified window scraper and I heated it up with a lighter and it went through the plastic really smooth. Edited October 12, 2012 by husker Quote
Members steelhawk Posted October 14, 2012 Members Report Posted October 14, 2012 I used an Xacto fine toothed saw to cut the safety off on my 3" 1911, then JB Weld to re-attach it. Quote
Members particle Posted October 15, 2012 Author Members Report Posted October 15, 2012 Good idea - I might try that first! Quote
Members particle Posted October 24, 2012 Author Members Report Posted October 24, 2012 For those that might be interested, I was able to remove the thumb safety and reattach it in the cocked & locked position using a box cutter, chisel and super glue. http://www.adamsleatherworks.com/bluegun-thumb-safety/ Quote
Members Tac Posted October 25, 2012 Members Report Posted October 25, 2012 Does anyone know why Rings doesn't just cast these type pistols with the safety in the "correct" position and save us all the trouble? Between the 1911, the Browning Hi Power, the other various "cocked and locked" guns, you would think this would be the norm, rather than the exception... Quote
Members particle Posted October 25, 2012 Author Members Report Posted October 25, 2012 My only guess is if they're used for training simulators, they may prefer them in the "fire" position so the grip feels natural when "shooting". However, if they're used for training purposes, I have trouble seeing why on earth they need more than a small, medium and large size pistol in perhaps the standard issue handguns for LE, and perhaps a few sizes of revolvers typically carried on duty. It would be even better if they'd just go ahead and cast the gun with the safety in both position and offer two versions for sale. I mean, why make a Sig P238 and a Sig P938 for "training" - they're essentially the same size gun if all you're doing is training with it. Quote
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