Members George B Posted October 16, 2012 Members Report Posted October 16, 2012 I have been attempting to reduce the amount of leather I keep around and have been trying to dye natural veg tanned to get the colors I want. After dying, everything turns to concrete, hard as arock and difficult to work with. I dye before assembling (holsters and belts), and even tried after the holster is done. It still turns hard and difficult to flex. I have used Fiebing's alcohol and pro oil dye with the same results. I have dipped and applied with dauber, same results. I talked with W&C and was told to use a spirit based dye. I though the alcohol based dye was a spirit dye? I am going to pick up an airbrush and compressor this week to get a more even finish but I am still perplexed and frustrated as to how I stop my leather from turning hard. Would I be better served by using the eco-flo water based dyes? Or, can someone here point me to a resource I can use to learn more about dying properly. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, George Quote
Members DoubleC Posted October 16, 2012 Members Report Posted October 16, 2012 George there ARE no dumb questions. I'm working on a guitar strap right now I dyed yesterday and it was like working with a board. But then I burnished all the edges and holes and just working it with my hands softened it up some. And one I am finished I use bag balm on it and work the leather with my hands a good 1/2 hour and the straps just drape. There is no reason why you couldn't condition it BEFORE it's formed rather than after the project is completely done. I would suggest you put your finish on first a thin coat only because I've never used vasoline or bag balm before I put a finish on so done know if it would pull some of the finish off. Then after you have it completed you could put another thin coat of finish on. It doesn't matter what kind of dye you use I don't think because I've used both. The dye just makes it stiff and working it will make it soft. Roll it under AWAY from the grain side or it will wrinkle. I roll my straps end to end when I'm conditioning and then roll from the opposite side. I hope this helps. Cheryl Quote
Members Horrrk Posted October 17, 2012 Members Report Posted October 17, 2012 Hi George.. Good advice from Cheryl there.. One other thing I've read about, is that some folk like to oil the leather before dyeing.. Here's a thread I've come across, which may or may not help..but perhaps worth a try too.. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=19868 Let us know how it goes.. Regards Phil Quote
Members DoubleC Posted October 17, 2012 Members Report Posted October 17, 2012 I just learned something new too. I had a strap I put on my messenger bag I think could have benefited from oiling it first, but it's loosing up from wear, and following my usual process. But I bet a little oiling before would have helped. Thanks Phil. Cheryl Quote
Members Horrrk Posted October 17, 2012 Members Report Posted October 17, 2012 I just learned something new too. I had a strap I put on my messenger bag I think could have benefited from oiling it first, but it's loosing up from wear, and following my usual process. But I bet a little oiling before would have helped. Thanks Phil. Cheryl In that case, it was well worth me posting, Cheryl.. Possibly a future project will be made easier with it, you never know.. I'd read about it, around the same time I found the forum, whilst searching through the how to's on making a bike seat.. I remember it just confused me at the time, by adding another step before dyeing, when others don't mention it..lol The whole dyeing process still confuses me, with the resists, antiques, etc..but I'll get to that in due time.. Regards Phil Quote
Members DoubleC Posted October 17, 2012 Members Report Posted October 17, 2012 Yes, thank you Phil, it was well worth it to me. I would never have thought of doing it. I swear I learn something new every day here. Cheryl Quote
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