What's The Best Way To Apply Neatsfoot Oil?

[RoosterShooter]

I'm thinking of doing a few holsters in a simple neatsfoot finish.

What's the best way to apply?

I've read where some people brush it on and wait, then apply again, and then I've read where people rub it in by hand.

Any comments are appreciated.

[abn]

I apply oils very lightly using a small piece of cotton fabric... Usually cut from a white T-shirt. I only apply a single, light coat. (Too much oil is a bad thing.) FWIW, I prefer olive oil over neatsfoot for a more rich, mellow color. You should try both on scrap to see which one you prefer.

Good luck!

[Chief31794]

X2 on light coat, I put it on with the same cotton material very lightly. I don't think I would ever use it as a finish, just me, but I use it to return natural oil to the leather to promote flexibility and suppleness.

Chief

[Treed]

I like to use a patch of sheep skin with the wool trimmed down. Gives me more control when applying, as I can control the amount of oil on the wool better.

[David8386]

I like old cotton socks

Good luck David

[shtoink]

I have not tried it yet, but have heard of using a cheap airbrush, not unlike one from Harbor Freight, to apply even coats.

[RoosterShooter]

I have not tried it yet, but have heard of using a cheap airbrush, not unlike one from Harbor Freight, to apply even coats.

Neatsfoot seems too thick for an airbrush! I have been airbrushing epoxy and acrylic paints on firearms for several years. I couldn't imagine using an airbrush to spray something so thick!

[cem]

An airbrush is likely to clog, not sure why somebody would want hassle of applying it that way when it's easy to apply with sheep skin or cloth. As long as you are putting on light coats it evens itself out anyway after a few hours.

[Horrrk]

I like old cotton socks

That's nice David and may I say very brave of you to admit to your cotton sock fetish, actually on the forum..

Regards

Phil

[Jarednem]

I have been using my wife's makeup pads. She used them one on my projects and I haven't anything else since. The round kind rubbery felling ones u can get from target

Edited December 7, 2012 by Jarednem

[bruce johnson]

I guess I apply it differently. I have been using a paint roller for years. Fine napped paint roller and plastic tray. I can control how heavy I apply it by how much I roll out on the ramp before I got to leather. I get a good even coat all the way to the end on belts by running the roller a bit diagonally. On the big surfaces I slightly overlap. I don't end up with swirl marks or spend a lot of time applying. If I have 3 or 4 small pieces like checkbooks I just line them on the table and roll over them all in a pass. Two passes on a stirrup leather will do what I need. It is a time saver for me and does the best job of anything else I have tried. For my lining sides I can do a whole side in about 5 minutes. For molded cases I use a woolskin patch and dip into my oil tray, then squeeze it out to leave what I want in it. I lightly slather it on.

I leave my oil set for 24 hours after I apply before I decide if I want more.

[shtoink]

Well, so as to not sound insane, I found the post I referenced earlier from someone here who uses an airbrush to apply the neatsfoot oil.

Here it is...

I guess the main point is that there isn't really a wrong way to apply it as long as it isn't overdone.

[mlapaglia]

Its not a good finish but its a great natural looking dye. Not really a dye but it will darken it to that nice undyed leather look. Leave it out in the sun for several hours and it will give you a rich light brown look. Sun tanned leather.

Then give it a coat of leather balm with atom wax and you are set. I love the look.

[footrat]

I use whatever fits the size of the piece. Small straps, I use a dauber, and squeeze most of the oil back out first, then use t-shirt scraps to buff the excess off. Same procedure for larger pieces, but I might use something larger like t-shirt or underwear scraps, or a wool scrap. Again, buffing off the excess. In this manner, I can apply just a little at a time, wait for it to soak in, and see if it needs more.

Recently, I had some straps that were so dry after dying that they were ashy in patches. I gobbed the oil on with a dauber, let it soak in, and repeated until the straps wouldn't soak in the oil very quickly. At at that point, I buffed them and let them sit until the surface was dry, then finished with Saddle Lac.