RoosterShooter Report post Posted November 2, 2012 I'm having problems getting a true round edge using my 1" Tandy Pro Strap End Punch. When I purchased this punch, I was under the impression that it created a true round edge. It does not! I have compared it with other tools at Tandy, and it is not a faulty punch, by the standards there. I cannot get a true round edge. In other words ... the top is rounded, but when it meets the side it steps! In other words ... the round edge is not a continuous round edge. What should I do? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bigfoot Report post Posted November 2, 2012 Call Tandy, tell them it is not right, return it to them and wait for a shiny new one that does what you paid for it to do.......Worst that can happen is they refund you and then they loose another customer. They really do need to check quality control on their tools..and leather..or at least the UK supply...not sure if they are better in the USA Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chief31794 Report post Posted November 2, 2012 RoosterShooter, Don't know if it'll help, but I don't use these punches the way they were designed. I have the biggest Round and the bigget Pointed punches I could find, then I use them on straps that are narrower than the punch. If you use the punch that is the same size as the strap the ends will look funny (sides). I mark the middle ligthly, align the strap so that it is perpendicular and "square" across then cut the end. This gives a nice smooth round or pointed end. Chief Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sylvia Report post Posted November 2, 2012 Before you go tossing a fit at Tandy. Make sure your straps are actually the size that matches the punch. If you are cutting your own with a strap cutter chances are that it's slightly larger than the measurement you think it is. Measure first. Then if needed pitch fit. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Trox Report post Posted November 2, 2012 I'm having problems getting a true round edge using my 1" Tandy Pro Strap End Punch. When I purchased this punch, I was under the impression that it created a true round edge. It does not! I have compared it with other tools at Tandy, and it is not a faulty punch, by the standards there. I cannot get a true round edge. In other words ... the top is rounded, but when it meets the side it steps! In other words ... the round edge is not a continuous round edge. What should I do? I think you should complain on it. What did you pay for this punch? Somebody has to tell them they sell crap. Some of their tools are as expensive as Professional leather tool, quality and finish is not. A round punch should be round; otherwise, they should sell it as a “1 inch nearly round punch”. I checked out Tandy’s price for this punch; 43 $ on sale. http://www.tandyleather.eu/en-eur/search/searchresults/3151-03.aspx It was originally priced to 73 Euro (94 $) and is on sale to 34, 49 Euro (44, 63 $) I am chocked! Nearly 100 $ for that crappy punch. You can buy a professional US made CS Osborne 1 inch punch for 38, 93 $ http://www.campbell-randall.com/shop/index.php?route=product/product&path=1_58_70&product_id=845 That is a much better tool, not an overpriced “nearly round” toy punch like that Tandy. If you want a real good punch that will last you a lifetime. You must find an old forged polished one. Visit Bruce Johnson’s web site http://brucejohnsonleather.com/content/index.php/leather_tools_for_sale/leather-punches-concho-slot-strap-end-and-hole-punches/ For about 55 $ you get a old cleaned up quality punch. With high polished forged punch like that you will not have problems like you experienced with the Tandy tool. The two last links is where I buy some of my tools, I can vouch for them both. If Tandy do not let have a new one, post a picture of it here. Maybe it is possible to fix it, I cannot tell with out seeing it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chief31794 Report post Posted November 2, 2012 (edited) I would check to make sure my strap is exactly 1", because most 1" straps that are bought actually measure 15/16" nominally. If you cut your own, they may vary after cutting or before. Also if you cut yours at exactly 1" and the punch is designed for 1" nominal (usually 15/16") then it will leave marks on the edges like you describe. That's why I always use a puch that is at least 3/16" larger than the strap I'm cutting. Leather isn't a perfect medium and doesn't even have a +/- tolerance factor. There is no way that Tandy nor anyone else could make a punch that would cut every 1" strap since they may vary from 15/16" to 1-1/16". I'm not a big fan of Tandy tools, I don't use very many, but if I did, I wouldn't expect them to exactly cut every 1" strap I put under it since they vary. Chief Edited November 2, 2012 by Chief31794 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RoosterShooter Report post Posted November 2, 2012 (edited) I'll try and answer the responses best I can. I cut my own straps and they measure 124/126" using a set of German Made digital calipers. I spoke to Tandy this afternoon, and described my dilemma to the clerk. He made measurements and got back to me. All of the round punches in his store measured 1 1/8" on the back side, as does mine. So, evidently they sell a strap end punch that is known to be 1/8" larger than the piece to be cut. This, in itself, causes me problems. Where is the logic in selling a 1 1/8" punch that is described as a 1" punch? Oh well, this is the straw that broke the camels back! I learned my lesson, and, as much as I hate to do it, I will start ordering from another company. Granted, the staff at Tandy are always super nice, and they can't help the quality of product that their company chooses to sell. I won't blame the staff that Tandy's corporate policies lack quality control. After all, the clerks are just doing their job. They can't help what the company chooses for supply. Edited November 2, 2012 by RoosterShooter Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HellfireJack Report post Posted November 2, 2012 All of their punches are oversize by 1/8. They're supposed to be. It has nothing to do with lack of quality control. It's perfectly normal. A 1 inch punch used on a 1 inch belt will mar the edges of the belt where the sides of the punch contact. A slightly oversize punch will not. I have a 1-3/4 English point belt punch here that's actually 1-7/8. Not sure why you consider that a game changer. What are you going to do when you find other companies sell oversize punches too? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chief31794 Report post Posted November 2, 2012 All of their punches are oversize by 1/8. They're supposed to be. It has nothing to do with lack of quality control. It's perfectly normal. A 1 inch punch used on a 1 inch belt will mar the edges of the belt where the sides of the punch contact. A slightly oversize punch will not. I have a 1-3/4 English point belt punch here that's actually 1-7/8. Not sure why you consider that a game changer. What are you going to do when you find other companies sell oversize punches too? Absolutely agree, there is no "Exact" in cutting leather and this, to me, isn't a quality problem. Chief Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bruce johnson Report post Posted November 2, 2012 Just to weigh in here because I have a lot of punches, makers, and times when they were made to compare. I didn't measure every punch, but did several randoms off my bench and what I have for sale. I checked maybe 50 here - a mix of English points and round ends. The wood handled punches are all less than 1/16" except for 1-1/2'' HF Osborne that is a full 1/16" over. The HF Osborne forged punches are mostly dead on but a few are less 1/16" oversized. The CS Osborne forged punches are mostly less than or right at 1/16" oversized. The "CS Osborne Made in England" forged punches are all less than 1/16" over and very consistant. I have a few arch style (CS Osborne #150) punches. They vary the most. The 1-3/4" English point on my bench measures 1/8" over, the rest all measure right at 1/16" or less except one dead on. The dead on one is the round end 1-3/4" arch punch on my bench. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lwm803 Report post Posted November 2, 2012 The simple solution would seem to be to size the strap to work with the punch that you have, either that or pay the premium for a punch that more precisely meets your expectations. If error in your strap width is precisely 2/126" (only about .016") from end to end then your level of precision in cutting leather far exceeds the metal working skills/standards of Tandy's current tool manufacturer, so you many need to shop elsewhere. As my hobbies include metal, wood and leather crafts I often have to stop and remind myself that a belt is not expected to be a "press fit muffler bearing for the space shuttle". Also with so many hobbies I have to settle for whatever tooling I can afford or make myself so I am required to learn to design my projects to fit the tooling on hand, or buy new. In which case (using the belt as an example again) I could just go out and buy a pretty good belt for less than the cost of a quality 1 1/2" end punch. I cannot help but believe that skilled leather workers have been turning out quality leather products for much longer than strap end punches, hole punches, swivel knives, and even head knives have existed. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
abn Report post Posted November 2, 2012 ...there is no "Exact" in cutting leather and this, to me, isn't a quality problem. I agree. I'd drive myself nuts if I tried to get millimeter precision out of leather and leatherworking tools. I'd suggest taking 5 minutes and hitting that step with 320-grit sandpaper to smooth it out. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RoosterShooter Report post Posted November 2, 2012 (edited) The problem is this. I am making small 1" x 4" straps for a shoulder holster project. I was anticipating knocking out 30 or so of these straps so that I would have them for future projects. That makes it really hard to do when I have to pay attention to each individual strap in order to knock off the step. Perhaps I'm trying to use a paintbrush to paint a wall! Maybe I need to look into clicking them out in order to get the precision and quantity that I need. Your thoughts? Edited November 2, 2012 by RoosterShooter Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Trox Report post Posted November 2, 2012 I'll try and answer the responses best I can. I cut my own straps and they measure 124/126" using a set of German Made digital calipers. I spoke to Tandy this afternoon, and described my dilemma to the clerk. He made measurements and got back to me. All of the round punches in his store measured 1 1/8" on the back side, as does mine. So, evidently they sell a strap end punch that is known to be 1/8" larger than the piece to be cut. This, in itself, causes me problems. Where is the logic in selling a 1 1/8" punch that is described as a 1" punch? Oh well, this is the straw that broke the camels back! I learned my lesson, and, as much as I hate to do it, I will start ordering from another company. Granted, the staff at Tandy are always super nice, and they can't help the quality of product that their company chooses to sell. I won't blame the staff that Tandy's corporate policies lack quality control. After all, the clerks are just doing their job. They can't help what the company chooses for supply. Most are oversized, other brands to. I have some Weaver round strap punches they are 1/16 " oversized. If thats your problem? learn to live with it. You trim this uneven edge of with your edger and burnisher, like the rest of us do. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Art Report post Posted November 2, 2012 My punches are all over the place, but within a 1/16" tolerance. We do mostly 1" and 1 1/4" straps and cut them usually with a Weaver punch. We do cut our own straps and we can shim the machine for width, usually cutting 1/16" oversize; any "shelf" is cleaned up on the belt grinder or finisher, but usually burnishing cleans-up small differences. I'm not a real fan of Tandy tools, especially the new ones, but other than sharpening, the punches seem ok out of the box. Adjust your finishing process to compensate as straps usually come out of the machine about 1/16" oversize, and they run through buckles just fine that way. If you go an 1/8" oversize, they don't work in buckles well, but can be handled again, in finishing. Going back to the supplier with things like this is most often a waste of time (time = money). This doesn't mean you continue using the same supplier that aggravates your situation, but most times I let them know there is a problem and give them another chance to correct the problem. There is perfect leather, perfect tools, and perfect hardware, but the next alignment like that in one order will occur on December 22, 2012. Art Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites