Singer 111W155 Timing/thread Issues

[TSquared]

Eric,

I got motivated tonight after baking all the pies for tomorrows dinner. I tackled the tension release issue first. It took me a while but I finally figured it out. after adjusting the presser foot the tension release still did not work. I took the mechinism off the machine and found that someone had straightened the release bar so it was not even making contact with the pin. I made several small adjustments to the bar (I didn't want to bend it too far). Photo is attached for those interested. The second thing I tackled was the walking foot. That took me longer to figure out but I figured I couldn't screw it up any worse than it was. The only problem I have with my adjustment is that sometimes when I flip the presser foot release down the presser bar sticks. There is a long copper color bar that is underneath the black bar that has the chain attached to it. It looks like the end of that bar is supposed to be nested into a notch on the presser bar shaft adjuster. i can't seem to get past the spring clip. I don't know if this bar is bent or not. the presser bar lifts with the foot pedal and with the lever on the back of the machine so do I need to worry about it? photo of walking foot attached as well.

tomorrow I will file the hook as you suggested and I will attemp my first project. http://youtu.be/CuqUTLCDQNQ

http://youtu.be/6hSOXNlitnk

Have a great Thanksgiving everyone!!

Tom

[gottaknow]

Nicely done Tom! You'll now be able to remove your material easily by releasing your tension. Your walking foot motion looks great as near as I can tell too. Nice bit of progress, and pies too! Happy Thanksgiving as well!

Regards, Eric

[TSquared]

Thanks! Coming from a master repairman that means a lot. I could not have gotten this far without your help and all the others.

To all on this forum - have a nice thanksgiving. Take the day off and spend time with your loved ones.

Tom

[dmar836]

Well I polished the hook and retarded the timing. My advice to anyone is to check and recheck timing, etc. as there is accumulated slack in everything. On a new or rebuilt machine, maybe not so much.

I did some stitching with one tread breakage but after dropping the needle bar again and retarding the timing a tad it's working.

One issue is that there appears to be a double row of stitching underneath my first project stitch - a leather hat visor. It is the first time I got through it without any thread breaking but there is the occasional extra loose stitch visible on too and a complete "follower" thread underneath the entire length of stitching. Any ideas? It's getting there!

Happy Thanksgiving to all,

Dave

[gottaknow]

When you start sewing, you'll want to hold the threads behind the foot as you begin to sew. You can let go after a few stitches have formed. This keeps your tail threads from getting sewn back into the stitch or making a mess. It sounds like you're really close.

Regards, Eric

[Anne Bonnys Locker]

Love the number of people here who give free advice. Every sewing machine owner needs to be able to make their machine work from base principles as no new mechanics are being trained and all of us need to be able to pass on the simple things that make machines work.

Eric, Bob, Ronnie, Steve, Wiz and others have freely given the sort of advice that many others would charge hundreds of dollars for! For any potential purchaser of a leather sewing machine it is well worth looking at how your preferred dealer interacts with customers. On this site we consistently see dealers offering free advice even when people have bought from other dealers. What does that tell you about the actual cost of buying a machine?

[gottaknow]

I think the dealers here are very generous with their information. I don't have a "dog in the fight" so to speak since I'm not a dealer. I think their willingness to help is a great asset to this site. In return of course, there can be financial gain for them. That's the great thing about a free site that is supported by sponsors. As consumers, we're free to choose who to do business with based on good information that's presented. I have bought some products from a sponsor here and been very satisfied.

I've seen some sites where the sponsors openly argue in the forums. Not cool. I've only seen a few subtle hints here and reminders to give all the sponsors a look see. If I were in the market for a machine, there's easily enough information here to make a good choice. Since most people don't have ready access to a journeyman mechanic, you can't beat a dealer with good support. I simply love helping people with their machines and despise so called industrial mechanics who charge money and don't solve problems.

I have during my career apprenticed several mechanics. It takes five years in a factory setting. As Darren pointed out, there's not many of us factory guys around anymore. My long term goal is to consolidate my teaching experience and provide it to people in a manner they can apply to their machines. When I retire from the factory setting, I'd like to tour this great country with my wife in a motorhome. It's very likely I'll supplement my income with machine repair.

Regards, Eric

[dmar836]

Mine is now sewing and I have run it a decent bit BUT I notice that it is starting to break top threads again as the thread slips out of the slot in base of the bobbin to form the knot. It appears to hang in the slot and just keeps traveling back into the groove in the hook about parallel to the needle. It is supposed to end up down in the small slot in the bottom of the bobbin isn't it? It appears that the hook takes the thread at the needle and passes it into that small bobbin slot and that it comes out of that slot about the time the slot is back around at the needle. No amount of opener adjustment seams to change it. I do admit need a new plate with a better defined notch on the bottom.

Interesting thing is this happens only when I hand turn the machine as in around a curve or when restarting by hand. If I just take off with the motor it won't do it. I sanded on the bobbin "slots" last week when I discovered that is where it was breaking theads andit began behaving. It is doing it again now and I wonder if the slot(which acts somewhat like a hook) is grooved at the base and holding the top thread too long. It this a common sign of a worn out bobbin or am I confused about where the top thread is supposed to track?

Dave

Wow, I can't type!

[gottaknow]

Have you oiled the bobbin basket since you began sewing? If not, I'd start with that. The bobbin basket needs lubed on the side where the hook rotates around it. If not, it will drag and make your latch opener adjustment ineffective. It needs just one drop each day you sew. Set the tip of your oil can anywhere along the flat curved piece with the 3 tiny screws in it that retains the basket. That way you can't miss. I'd start with that.

Regards, Eric

[dmar836]

Yeah I tried that. There is no "felt strip" anywhere on my bobbin as shown in the various manuals. I'll look at the timing again as we'll but that's where the breakage is occurring just as the take up arm is rising and the top thread is hanging up somehow when that slot is exposed by the groove in the hook. It all gets very tight just before the break.