Singer 111W155 Timing/thread Issues

[dmar836]

Took a look and I can see and feel no play at all in the belt which is quite tight - not that under load it couldn't drift if the teeth were worn. Where I can definately see and feel play is a slight amount at the clutch mechanism but most easily at the hook drive gear interface.

Looks like maybe I should drop some cash on gears and belt. Not sure if that will completely eliminate the gear play but I see no other way to adjust the lash.

Is there a way to address the clutch play? All I remember reading is "don't mess with it as it is set at the factory."

Dave

[gottaknow]

First, a word about the gears on the hook and lower shaft. Even with brand new gears on both, you'll get a little play. The gear obviously on the lower shaft is a bigger challenge to change, the one on the hook shaft is easy. However. If you have moved the gear on the lower shaft left and right to change the timing slightly, the gear would much rather be centered in relation to the hook gear. Too much either way, and you get a bind or excess slop. I very much doubt those gears are causing an issue. When I set hook timing, I push the hook counter-clockwise. That's the position where your hook timing will actually be while sewing. It doesn't matter if the hook moves 1/8" clockwise, set your timing with the play taken out in the counter-clockwise position.

As for your safety clutch. Those can be adjusted. I'll bring one home tommorow and go over the adjustment with you here. A word about the aftermarket timing belts. For the most part, they suck. I purchased 6 belts for my Singer 300W's. (a beastly chainstich machine) They were sloppier than the belts I was replacing. To determine where the most play is, clamp a pair of vise grips on the lower shaft anywhere it's clear, with the needle bar up. I use a shop towell to pad the shaft. With the machine tipped back, hold the vise grips against the bottom edge of the casting. By rocking the handwheel back and forth, this will tell you how much of your play is in the belt and the safety clutch/lower timing belt gear. With the vise grips in place, grab your hook and rotate it back and forth. This will isolate the play so you can make a wise choice if either one's excessive.

The more you become familiar with the various components, the easier it is to trouble shoot. As a note, your safety clutch shouldn't have much play if any. Pay close attention to that while holding the vise grips and rocking the handwheel.

Regards, Eric

[dmar836]

Well, cramming for my checkride has begun. I won't be available to play with it until Friday eve.

Dave

[gottaknow]

Well, cramming for my checkride has begun. I won't be available to play with it until Friday eve.

Dave

Good luck with that Dave. I'll have the video waiting for you.

Regards, Eric

[gottaknow]

Ok, here's the video to show the adjusment of the safety clutch. It could remove a bit of play for you Dave.

Regards, Eric

[TSquared]

Eric,

Great video, well explained. Can you offer any insight to the issues in my last post regarding foot pressure and stitch lenght?

Tom

[dmar836]

Wow! Awesome video. It's exactly what I needed. This will isolate the play to the hook gears so I can really assess hook timing and that backlash. Maybe that alone will keep the top thread from slipping up or down.

I watched a 70 or so part series about rebuilding a Maytag washing machine engine and wonders how cool it would be to have an ongoing series like this about working on these machines. Tall order for sure but you are very informed with a dying skill.

Gotta love vintage engineering!

Thanks,

Dave

[gottaknow]

Thanks Dave. A project like this is forth coming. I'm working on a written synopsis.

Regards, Eric

[gottaknow]

Eric,

Great video, well explained. Can you offer any insight to the issues in my last post regarding foot pressure and stitch lenght?

Tom

There is a relationship between stitch length, foot pressure, feed dog height. The first thing I'd check would be the height of your feed dogs. Normally, when the dogs are all the way up, the bottom of the "valleys" between the teeth should be level with the throat plate. Too low and you'll slip and mark up your material. Too high and you will create a condition called "back-feeding" Back-feeding occurs when the feed dogs rise above the throat plate while still traveling backwards. It's fairly easy to see, just by watching the motion with your needle unthreaded and no material. If this is happening, lower the feed dogs.

Very seldom do you need to run your foot pressure all the way down. If you do, you may need to adjust the presser bar clamp to provide adequate pressure with less adjustment. The easiest way to check is with a piece of paper under the foot. Loosen your pressure up all the way. If there's still a slight tension against the paper, the adjustment is good. If the foot isn't touching the paper at all, you'll need to drop the presser bar down, hold a little pressure on it and tighten it back up. Be sure to keep the alignment as the bar will rotate when the clamp's loose.

It is possible that the feed eccentric on the lower shaft is worn. At slow speed, the play doesn't allow the stitch length you have set. At higher speed, the cam will "throw" the feed mechanism farther, making a longer stitch. This is one of those things that's hard to determine without me sewing on it. Best way to proceed is to check the things above, and play with your pressure. The more you adjust things and see the results, the easier it will be to judge where your problem may be.

Regards, Eric

[dmar836]

Great stuff. Weather kept me from the check ride but got the oral exam out of the way. Tonight I'll adjust the clutch and see what paly is left in the hook.

Dave