Members TSquared Posted November 7, 2012 Author Members Report Posted November 7, 2012 Thanks Eric. Your help is greatly appreciated. Quote
Members gottaknow Posted November 7, 2012 Members Report Posted November 7, 2012 No problem Tom. I've got pics to upload for you tonight. Should help you get things going. Quote
Trox Posted November 8, 2012 Report Posted November 8, 2012 Hi Tom, I let Bob and Eric help you with this Singer, I have mostly Adler machines my self. I had a Singer 144W-305 (30 inch arm) very similar to your 111W, only bigger. However the adjustments is the same on them. Just remember when you have a timing issue like this it a reason for it. Most of the times its because of thread that jams in the hook. You must always remove the bobbin house and check for thread pieces underneath, clean it out and oil it. The machine has a clutch that protects the hook when it jams, the clutch might fail because of rust and dirt. Causing the drive belt to jump over some teeth. Or be hard to reset when its old. Anyway if you need a good service manual here is a link to a free E book, US army manual on several machine they used included yours. It might help you. http://books.google.com.au/books/about/Organizational_and_field_maintenance_man.html?id=jCUYAAAAYAAJ Good luck Quote Tor Workshop machines: TSC 441 clone/Efka DC1550, Dürkopp-Adler 267-373/Efka DC1600, Pfaff 345-H3/Cobra 600W, Singer 29K-72, Sandt 8 Ton clicking machine, Alpha SM skiving unit, Fortuna 620 band knife splitting machine. Old Irons: Adler 5-27, Adler 30-15, Singer 236W-100
Members gottaknow Posted November 8, 2012 Members Report Posted November 8, 2012 Ok, here's the first set of pics in order to make sure your shaft timing is correct. The machine shown is a Singer 112, a two needle version of the 111. Pay attention to how the set screws are on the lower belt gear. Orient that gear with the set screw shown. After that, move your take up lever all the way up. If your shafts are timed, the letter "B" mark on the belt gear will line up with the timing mark on the frame of the machine. If not remove the belt, leave the take up lever all the way up, and move and hold the lower gear with the "B" stamped on the gear. Replace the belt in this position. Your final belt timing will have your takeup lever all the way up, the lower "B" mark lined up with the line on the casting, and the arrow on the lower shaft lined up as well. Start with that and I'll follow up with my method of timing these machines. Regards, Eric Quote
Members TSquared Posted November 8, 2012 Author Members Report Posted November 8, 2012 Trox, thanks for the link. I read most of the manual, I will print it tomorrow at work. Looks like a lot of good info there. Quote
Members TSquared Posted November 8, 2012 Author Members Report Posted November 8, 2012 Eric, Got yor photos. My lower gear does not look like yours (mine seems th have some type of release built into it, see the photo I posted above. I also don't have a letter B stamped anywhere on the gear. The set screw in my gear appears to be in the same relation as in your photo. Tom Quote
Members gottaknow Posted November 8, 2012 Members Report Posted November 8, 2012 (edited) You have a safety clutch release. It's designed to disengage when your machine is jammed. The timing is primarily the same. Take up lever all the way up there should be a timing mark somewhere on that gear that will line up with the timing mark on the lower shaft, or the casting when the take up lever is all the way up. That's the position you want your belt syncronized between the upper and lower shaft. Eric Oh, and I should mention that's not the position where you time your hook to your needle. That's just the timing between the two shafts. Edited November 8, 2012 by gottaknow Quote
Trox Posted November 8, 2012 Report Posted November 8, 2012 Trox, thanks for the link. I read most of the manual, I will print it tomorrow at work. Looks like a lot of good info there. Your welcome, there are a free operating manual there as well, I have it in my PC. However, I did not find it when I searched for it. I found this one on Singerco.com industrial download http://parts.singerco.com/ http://parts.singerco.com/IPinstManuals/111W152_W153_W154_W155.pdf This manual has the hook timing and other adjustments as well. Maybe you already have it. Good luck Trox Quote Tor Workshop machines: TSC 441 clone/Efka DC1550, Dürkopp-Adler 267-373/Efka DC1600, Pfaff 345-H3/Cobra 600W, Singer 29K-72, Sandt 8 Ton clicking machine, Alpha SM skiving unit, Fortuna 620 band knife splitting machine. Old Irons: Adler 5-27, Adler 30-15, Singer 236W-100
Members TSquared Posted November 8, 2012 Author Members Report Posted November 8, 2012 I think I might be a little confused. If the clogged gear is on the end of the lower shaft and the lower shaft also has a timing mark that aligns with a timing plate, why would the orientation of the cog gear mean anything if the timing marks line up and the take up arm is in the upmost position? I tend to over analyze things so I apologize in advance. Is the time mark you are referring to the same as in the photo I posted earlier? Quote
Members gottaknow Posted November 8, 2012 Members Report Posted November 8, 2012 I think I might be a little confused. If the clogged gear is on the end of the lower shaft and the lower shaft also has a timing mark that aligns with a timing plate, why would the orientation of the cog gear mean anything if the timing marks line up and the take up arm is in the upmost position? I tend to over analyze things so I apologize in advance. Is the time mark you are referring to the same as in the photo I posted earlier? The gear normaly has a timing mark or an "a" or "b" stamped on it, or a line stamped on it. If it's not oriented on the shaft correctly, it changes the timing. If there's NO marks at all on the gear, then it won't matter. You can go by the timing mark shown in your picture and mine. If I have a machine that I've retimed, and there's no mark on the gear, I use a small cold chisel and create a timing mark between the gear and the casting of the machine. The reason being, if someone follows me and rotates that lower gear to the next screw, the timing will be off between the two shafts. For your machine, if your take up lever is up, and your timing mark is lined up on the shaft, you should have those two shafts timed. Again, that's not where you time your hook. Regards, Eric Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.