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Posted

Dave,

What mark was off by .125? Too much honey do this and that this weekend. I love all the food on thanksgiving but just abhor the prep needed to get there. lol.

The last two issues I have is with the walking foot hitting the needle bar and the thread being loose around the take up lever. I think that once solved, I will be able to use the Tenara thread. I still need to post some photos. Never enough time in the day....

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Posted

Tom,

Eric mentioned the mark on the casting related to the mark on the bottom pulley. In his pics you see the metal tab(like a tongue) from the casting that hangs down just over the shaft. There is a fine arrow on that "tongue" which will make it apparent where the matching arrow should be on the inner segment of the pulley. My pulley arrow was counterclockwise about .125 from the arrow on the "tongue" with the take-up bar at it's highest point. My pulley has 4 set screws(2 inside and 2 outside the mounting boss) so I played with that to get it aligned.

Mine was sewing but was inconsistent so once I started breaking top threads I knew I needed to start over. I timed it before but not after syncing the top and bottom shafts. Eric's answers to your questions are actually clearer than the manual I have.

Dave

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Posted

after looking at Erics sketch labled as 211 upper threading, I got to thinking that I might be doing the threading wrong. I have the thread going in the same path, but does the thread actually go between the two round plates or over the top of them (like a pulley)? It seems that it would make some sence for the thread to go between the plates so if the knurled nut is turned clockwise it would increase tension on the thread. I don't know the correct way of threading. when I got the machine, the thread was over the top of the round plates and the nut was as tight as it could be. Any thoughts?

Posted

Yes i'm pretty sure it does. I had a problem sorta like yours and like to of never figured out how to thread it and i have several machines and have been using them for 30 years. When i threaded it like in the picture it worked fine. Bob stated on another thread that if the slot was all the way over to one side or the other it needed to be moved to the center. Mine was / is all the way over to the left and it was bear to get the thread through there. Here's that thread post number 6. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=43802&hl=

I'm old enough to know that i don't know everything.

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Posted

Dirtclod,

thanks for the quick reply. I will change my threading tonight accordingly and let you know what happens. I have to say, it sure is nice having a great forum (and great members) to help us rookies out.

Tom

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Posted

So got the top and bottom shafts sync'd and the hook timed. My issue is that there was now a noticeable catch after the hook makes the loop with the top thread. Right as the loop is drawn up to create the "knot" nearest the needle, the loop is not rolling off the hook smoothly - it would make almost a light snapping sound and a jerking movement up at the controller spring forcing the spring to act twice. Weird. The ultimate result is that it isn't breaking threads any more but now the symptom is that no amount of top thread tension will create a balanced stitch - the bottom thread is straight under the fabric and every top thread loop is visible - no matter the tension settings. I did have the hook out and had to adjust the end play at the gear as it was setting too deep and was dragging underneath.

Any ideas if this is an obvious sign of something?

Sorry, Tom, I hope I am augmenting your adjustment questions rather than hijacking.

Dave

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Posted

Here's a short video of the up close threading of the 211/111's and most of the clones. Don't be confused between the terms "check spring" or "take up spring". I use both terms, though the correct name is "check spring". The take up lever comes after the check spring. I'm old. :)

Regards, Eric

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Posted (edited)

So got the top and bottom shafts sync'd and the hook timed. My issue is that there was now a noticeable catch after the hook makes the loop with the top thread. Right as the loop is drawn up to create the "knot" nearest the needle, the loop is not rolling off the hook smoothly - it would make almost a light snapping sound and a jerking movement up at the controller spring forcing the spring to act twice. Weird. The ultimate result is that it isn't breaking threads any more but now the symptom is that no amount of top thread tension will create a balanced stitch - the bottom thread is straight under the fabric and every top thread loop is visible - no matter the tension settings. I did have the hook out and had to adjust the end play at the gear as it was setting too deep and was dragging underneath.

Any ideas if this is an obvious sign of something?

Sorry, Tom, I hope I am augmenting your adjustment questions rather than hijacking.

Dave

See my post in this thread #21. There's a pic there as well. It sounds like your latch opener is not pulling the basket far enough for your take up lever to cleanly pull up the thread between the tab on the basket and the throat plate. Post #21 describes how to do it. Put some material in, open the slide and check the functioning of the opener.

Regards, Eric

Edited by gottaknow

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