Members dmar836 Posted November 20, 2012 Members Report Posted November 20, 2012 Thanks a bunch! Dave Quote
Members dmar836 Posted November 20, 2012 Members Report Posted November 20, 2012 Have I officially hijacked Tom's thread yet? I was using the same thread with different colors while testing. I switched the top thread to a matching color and now I'm breaking top threads again. I watched and I am occasionally leaving a loop of top thread under the plate and when the hook comes around it snags it. This happens after about 7" of good stitching. Could it be the thread controller? It appears to be the hook cutting it and not the needle. In fact the needle isn't in the plate when The thread snaps. I have played with most of its adjustments on the thread controller but They don't appear to change anything. Dave Quote
Members gottaknow Posted November 20, 2012 Members Report Posted November 20, 2012 The check spring isn't for pulling up the thread. Your timing may be advanced too much or you need to increase the latch opener, or both more later... Quote
Members gottaknow Posted November 21, 2012 Members Report Posted November 21, 2012 ...ok, aside from the advanced timing and your latch opener being too tight, your needle could be a bit small for your thread. You can increase your needle tension a bit and balance your bobbin tension accordingly. I would re-check your latch opener adjustment. You can open it wider as long as it doesn't hit the other side of the notch in the throat plate. After doing that and it's still breaking even with a larger needle, I'd say your hook timing is advanced too far. As I said earlier, I usually retard the timing on vertical hook machines. They seem to run with less issues. As for Tom's thread, this should all be applicable to his machine when the time comes. I'm sure he doesn't mind. Regards, Eric Quote
Members TSquared Posted November 21, 2012 Author Members Report Posted November 21, 2012 Dave, not to worry. I will eventually have the same issues that you have now. you are just a few steps ahead of me. I have attached some photos of the way I threaded my machine. It appears to be the same as what was shown in Eric's diagram. I now have the thread between the two plates. Even with the nut backed all the way (almost ready to fall off) the thread pulls so hard that I can break it before I can get it to advance. The machine is able to sew but the tension is so tight on the top that it curls the material. At this rate, it might be Christmas vacation before I start using it. LOL Tom Quote
Members TSquared Posted November 21, 2012 Author Members Report Posted November 21, 2012 I don't know why I view these photos on my Pc and they are in the correct orientation but when I post them they get rotated. Maybe I need to rotate them first and then they will be correct after posting. What a pain in the patute. I took a video of my needle bar and walking foot but I just can't seem to get it posted. I still have the issue with the needle bar hitting the walking foot (when it is attached). When sewing, the walking foot bar does not move up and down. I know, get one issue solved at a time....I am just getting a little impatient and too old. Quote
Members gottaknow Posted November 21, 2012 Members Report Posted November 21, 2012 (edited) You've missed the guide on the way down to your needle. It's likely pinching where the guide's mounted. I reattched your pic so you could see it. My red line should go inside that guide, but I think you get the idea. Regards, Eric Edited November 21, 2012 by gottaknow Quote
Members gottaknow Posted November 21, 2012 Members Report Posted November 21, 2012 I don't know why I view these photos on my Pc and they are in the correct orientation but when I post them they get rotated. Maybe I need to rotate them first and then they will be correct after posting. What a pain in the patute. I took a video of my needle bar and walking foot but I just can't seem to get it posted. I still have the issue with the needle bar hitting the walking foot (when it is attached). When sewing, the walking foot bar does not move up and down. I know, get one issue solved at a time....I am just getting a little impatient and too old. We'll get that resolved Tom. The process is pretty straight forward. You set your stitch length to zero, and measure between your needle bar and presser bar. There's a reference measurement you take to get it set. There's a clamp I showed earlier that allows you to move your needle bar back and forth, as well as centering the bar with the feed dogs which I think I showed earlier. You have to do this adjustment with the stitch length set on zero. I'm guessing you'll be moving both your needle bar and feed dogs towards the front of the machine in order to get the measurement you need so when you set your stitch length where you want it, it will clear. Regards, Eric Quote
Members gottaknow Posted November 21, 2012 Members Report Posted November 21, 2012 I edited your pic again Tom to correct my poor photoshop. You'll see that thread inside the guide now. I don't want to throw someone else off. I also show that it's ok to use only two hole going into your tension disks. Sometimes with stiff thread, you create too much back tension with too many guide holes and it doesn't allow you to adjust your tension the way you want. Almost every manual I've ever read will instruct you to set your needle and bobbin tension just tight enough to set a balanced stitch. If you start too tight, you've no where to go to pull up your stitches correctly, usually because you can't tighten the bobbin tension tight enough. I always start with my tensions loose and adjust from there. Regards, Eric Quote
Members TSquared Posted November 21, 2012 Author Members Report Posted November 21, 2012 I am going to try the two hole method. I will let you know if the tension eases up or not. The good thing about this is when we are finished I will have a nice machine that I will be able to keep in service till I get planted! My daughter has already claimed my machine. LOL Quote
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