SooperJake Report post Posted November 25, 2012 (edited) Should an IWB holster be molded less sharply to help disguise its presence? Edited November 25, 2012 by SooperJake Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TwinOaks Report post Posted November 25, 2012 Not really. Most of an IWB will never be seen by anyone. The parts that are above the waist band won't matter because there will be gun sitting in it...and unless you have grips that looks like a phone, it's kind of a moot point. Your question brings up another important question, though: Why do we detail mold a holster? Is it just for looks, or is there a functional reason? The answer is YES to both. The kydex wonderholsters typically use some type of physical 'lock' to hold a pistol in place. Often times this is done by careful molding of the holster to 'lock' around the trigger guard. Since leather is so much more flexible, we can't really rely on trigger guard molding to hold up for very long. So...we have to use another physical factor; one that leather does better than kydex. That property is friction. The stitch lines of a holster ultimately define how well the holster will maintain its ability to keep the gun in the exact same place over the life of the holster. Where the detail molding/boning comes into play is that by closely molding the outside of the holster, we get more leather against the gun inside the holster. With holsters that utilize a thumb strap, it is less of an issue because the strap provides the retentive security. For an open top (strapless) holster, we mold tightly to the gun to make the internal friction of the holster provide the retentive security. The combination of close molding and tight stitch lines will provide a holster that will keep the weapon in the same spot (muscle memory training), and 'hold' the weapon so that there is less (bordering on NONE) chance that the gun will wiggle/walk/fall out of the holster. A gun may actually 'click' into place on a well boned holster, but over time, it's the friction of the leather that is keeping it in place. So, contrary to the thought "I need a fast drawing holster for IWB", I actually mold my IWBs more closely than an OWB. It certainly isn't a 'speed draw', but if you're having to get past a cover garment anyway, your draw has already been slowed down. Instead of the 'fast draw', I build for discreet carry and a 'secure draw'. A point I've made to customers who try to redesign my holsters is as follows: I stand in front of them with a blue gun, and have them put a blue gun loosely in their back pocket (or wherever) --uncovered--. Then I tell them to draw as fast as they can. Usually, about the time they get their hand to the blue gun I say "BANG!". I do this to point out that very few people will EVER be fast enough to draw a gun faster than a finger can pull a trigger. It's just not going to happen. The purpose of concealed carry is NOT for people to outdraw an attacker, but to allow them to discreetly have a weapon available-------for when they are able to perceive the attack before it happens, OR, to have the weapon available for when they are reacting to a threat once they have made some space for themselves (aka getting to cover). I may be a little stringent in my opinion, but I try to make people understand that if they turn a corner and a robber is standing there with a drawn gun demaning money......they are going to be robbed. CC isn't going to prevent that. Situational Awareness can help, as can CQB/martial training. It's always a slap in the face to let them know that if they reach for their gun while facing a drawn weapon, they're likely to get hurt or worse. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
IngleGunLeather Report post Posted November 25, 2012 Most of the molding would be covered up anyway by the pants wouldn't it? The few that I've done had just enough for retention. I don't think a few extra creases in the leather would affect the concealment at all. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
renegadelizard Report post Posted November 25, 2012 think retention guys....i molded, tight molded holster has alot of retention in it....now, cinch a belt down on top of that and see how well you can draw it...i have had to chuck holsters because there was no way to draw them with the belt applied...my iwb's are very lightly molded now because the retention is heavily affected by the belt.. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TwinOaks Report post Posted November 25, 2012 My holsters draw just fine. I'm don't make holsters that rely on a belt for retention - that's the holster's job. If you have to cinch the belt down that tightly, I suggest getting some pants that fit. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rayban Report post Posted November 26, 2012 When a holster is too tight for a gun, the first thing a maker will have you do is place the gun in a freezer bag (or two) and holster the gun and let it set overnight.....still too tight? Do it again, til you get the desired fit....so where's the friction now that that the plastic bag has stretched out the leather? Retention is in the trigger guard and extracting port.....the rest may look good (if you want your holster to look like a plastic one) , but that's about it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TwinOaks Report post Posted November 26, 2012 That premise fails to address how holsters like the one Jim Simmons made in the tutorial on here are able to retain the guns in them. That cowboy style holster has NO detail molding/boning, yet is able to hold the gun securely. Friction on the inside of a holster does not ONLY have to be in the form of a pinched location, such as the trigger guard. Additionally, leather stretches with use. If a holster is built to only utilize the ejection port and trigger guard, then long before it should, the holster will lose it's retentive abilities as the leather at the trigger guard stretches. Furthermore, the leather at the ejection can be damaged if the molding is too tight in that area - the forward edge of the ejection port acts like a dull skiver. The total surface area of the leather inside the holster is what is providing the friction, not a pinched areas. Those areas are providing mechanical retention by blocking the path of the gun. The internal friction creates drag over the entire frame/slide. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Samalan Report post Posted November 26, 2012 Thanks for the detailed answer, enlighting for sure. Metal band to hold IWB open or not? , and something other than leather on skin ,for the tee shirt person.I plan on building a IWB useing two-ply leather is the leather enough . thanks . STAN Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TwinOaks Report post Posted November 26, 2012 Two layers of leather (grain out looks best, IMO) should be plenty, unless you're putting a lot of pressure on it. Take a look at Katsass' holsters - those are usually two layers of 5oz leather, grain out. And two layers of leather, properly bonded, formed, and set can be pretty stiff. On IWBs with the mouth band, the band is the second layer. I think that the design is an effort to reduce the overall thickness of the hoslter by reducing the second layer to only the mouth of the holster. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Samalan Report post Posted November 26, 2012 Thanks for the info ,I really appreciate that. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
renegadelizard Report post Posted November 26, 2012 My holsters draw just fine. I'm don't make holsters that rely on a belt for retention - that's the holster's job. If you have to cinch the belt down that tightly, I suggest getting some pants that fit. i dont rely on it, its a by product of it...when the belt is on, the holster collapses putting pressure on the gun..most of the folks i make holsters for wear IWB, and we have all been on the job long enough to know that when you wear IWB, you buy your pants 2 inches larger than your usual size... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
katsass Report post Posted November 26, 2012 (edited) Two layers of leather (grain out looks best, IMO) should be plenty, unless you're putting a lot of pressure on it. Take a look at Katsass' holsters - those are usually two layers of 5oz leather, grain out. And two layers of leather, properly bonded, formed, and set can be pretty stiff. On IWBs with the mouth band, the band is the second layer. I think that the design is an effort to reduce the overall thickness of the hoslter by reducing the second layer to only the mouth of the holster. Just a thought or two from the grump: As T.O. says, two layers will form up very firmly, and good retention will result from proper molding in that case. Two layers of 4/5oz works well on most firearms carried concealed, without excess bulk, in my experience. As to carrying concealed, two things to remember, first is that you dress to conceal. That is, to dress appropriately for the time of year and for the locale in which you are placing yourself - - AND in a way that conceals a firearm well, but remember that you give up some availability and speed over an exposed holster. Secondly, printing is a concern, however, not quite as much as many think. It's the fact that a very large percentage of folks carrying a concealed weapon KNOW that they are, are constantly aware of the fact - - and their OWN actions give them away. It takes a bit more than a modicum of experience to be able to wander around and not show (by your own demeanor) that you know that you are carrying a gun on your hip. Remember that one of those poor, misunderstood, downtrodden individuals that have had the misfortune to have spent any time at all in an institution of confinement, has learned the fine art of observation. That's about all they can do (without reprimand) in any penal institution - - and they get damned good at it.. Mike Edited November 26, 2012 by katsass Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Samalan Report post Posted November 26, 2012 Katsass i did get the 2ply from you for my second holster a mexican loop and as you say it is very strong . thank you for that. Stan Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites