Replacement For Barge Cement

[OWLSHD]

Does anyone have a recommendation for contact cement to replace Barge which does not seem to be as strong a product as it was a few years ago? Thank you.

[Bob Blea]

Hi OWLSHD, and welcome to the forum! For contact cement I use Weldwood contact cement with the red label. Once it sets I usually need a knife to separate the layers. You can get it at about any big box hardware store.

Bob

[Art]

Master. White can, get the thinner too.

Art

[two crows]

Titan DX Premium contact cement. Water base, no smell and it works great. I ran across this stuff when I was rebuilding a 100 year old pool table. I used it on all the vener work. Then I took it inside and used it on my leather work. This stuff sticks as well as anything I have used.

[rgepting]

Ditto what Art said. Been using masters for a year now. I like it better than barge.

[OWLSHD]

Thank you to all that have replied. It is very expensive trying products that may or may not work, so I appreciate hearing of success through long term use.

[renegadelizard]

+1 on the weldwood...great adhesion, even on oil tanned and latigo

[barbiesdude]

What thinner on the weldwood?

[Eaglestroker]

I've given Weldwood a shot a few times. Maybe I did not allow for enough dry time but the tack I got was really bad.

I use the stuff from Tandy with their thinner, mainly because it works and I can buy it locally. Do feel that there are better options out there though. for the first 6 mo's I used nothing but Titebond wood glue. Problem with it is it needs pressure and time to set up. Now that I do belts that isn't so practical.

[evandailey]

What thinner on the weldwood?

The can says to clean up with Xylene so I presume that is the solvent base. I haven't tried thinning it though and the can does not mention thinning.

[renegadelizard]

i dont use thinner...just brush it on straight out of the can...and as for adhesion..if i glue something wrong...its stays wrong unless i cut it out...

[oltoot]

For most things I still prefer Barges for the very reason that if need be I can take things apart without destroying them. When I was learning my teacher said to always think about the poor guy that would have to repair whatever it was that I was making. On the topic of adhesion, I have found that Barges works best when it is kept thinned. I use a quart of thinner for every two gallons. If it is almost runny it is at its best. If I really need adhesion then two or even three thin coats will increase that. All that said, I hope my wife doesn't read this thread and find out that there may be alternatives because she hates the smell, and most other smells that come from my shop. Aromas to some, stench to others, tomatoe-tomatoh. Life is really great.

[billymac814]

I'd second the masters for leather. I use Masters Max bond(made by renia) and Renia colle de cologne(same as Masters Multi purpose) is what I primarily use but I bond a lot of synthetics as well so I don't want to keep another glue just for leather. If leather is all you need to glue the masters all purpose works great. I'd recommend a good glue pot, the plastic ones that you lay on the side when not in use do the best at not drying out the glue, I never have to thin my glue now that I switched to those pots. I was constantly thinning when using the Teflon pots and the plastic jar with the brush in the lid.

I do a lot of repair work as well and if you use a little thinner you can almost always separate the glue.

[smudley]

I have also had good results with weldwood original. Except when I get in a hurry and don't let it set up long enough before adhering the pieces together, which is a lot of the time. Surprisingly, I like the new Tandy glue in the white bottle ($15 I think). On the few items I tried it on it really did a good job. In fact, I used it to glue down the edges of a wallet interior before lacing, and couldn't get it to come apart when I needed it to to hide my lace splice. I also like the Masters contact cement, especially when thinned a little. Barge is my third choice, and I use Tandy's Tanners bond only if I want to be able to take the pieces apart....easily. I do use it on my backing poster board for tooling, applying it to the "flat" side of the poster board ONLY, and letting it set for a couple of minutes before putting my leather on it. Holds my project well and comes apart easily when done, leaving no residue on the leather backside.

Billymac, where do you get your glue pots that you lay down ?

[billymac814]

I get them from Frankford Learher. You may need a wholesale account set up from them though. I Sachs in Chicago should have them and they'll sell to anyone. I think they are called Big Boy pots and they come in big and small sizes. I use the small. They are very expensive either.

[King's X]

I also use Masters in the white can. I get my supply from Sheridan Outfitter's. I switched after using the Duval 88 and Tandy's old stuff ran out. I have really happy with the use. I would also second the Thinner. There is a good video on Springfield Leather's YouTube site regarding adhesives. I shared it on my Facebook with my followers.

I have also used Weldwood only because I found a gallon for 6 bucks at Home Depot on the Clearance rack. It worked alright for me. I guess I may have not used it right? Anyways.....report back what you found and how it works for you!

Happy New Year!

[billymac814]

I've found that the masters all purpose(white can) seems to be thicker in the smaller jars than it does in the gallons. I'd imagine the gallons may be fresher since alot of shot repair shops go through them.

Also with the smaller jars with the brushes in the lids where you open and close them alot during use dries them up a bit. The gallons are only opened when you fill the pot.

I never thin my glues using the big boy pots but I'm careful to keep the lid on and turn them on their backs. I also pretty much go through a pot every day or two so its not sitting long. A guy who works for Renia told me not to thin them down and if I needed to I wasn't using it fast enough, this was mainly with the Multi purpose though not the All purpose.

[sinpac]

I use Master Cement

It sets in three minutes and it's strong

Edited January 4, 2013 by sinpac

[billymac814]

I just posted this in another thread too but these are the pots I was talking about.

Also FYI the Masters All purpose is a good cement that works well but it does have toluene and MEK, Masters Multi purpose and Renia Colle de cologne is free of those and bonds stronger. Thats important to me because my kids spend a lit of time in and near the shop. They are more expensive though but they bond a lot more materials too so it keeps me from using multiple cements for repairs.

Edited January 12, 2013 by billymac814

[sinpac]

I just posted this in another thread too but these are the pots I was talking about.

Where did you get those glue pot if you don't mind me asking.

Chris

[billymac814]

I got mine at Frankford Leather. I think you need a wholesale account to order from them though. There's other places that sell them online though. They are usually called "Big Boy" glue pots. Most places that sell shoe repair supplies should have them. I Sachs in Chicago has them and no account is needed. Mine are the minor ones(small size).

Where did you get those glue pot if you don't mind me asking.

Chris

[sinpac]

I got mine at Frankford Leather. I think you need a wholesale account to order from them though. There's other places that sell them online though. They are usually called "Big Boy" glue pots. Most places that sell shoe repair supplies should have them. I Sachs in Chicago has them and no account is needed. Mine are the minor ones(small size).

Thanks for the info BillyMac