Members Mokosh Posted December 28, 2012 Members Report Posted December 28, 2012 So I usually apply a pretty high gloss finish on veg tan leather that I dye, but this time I used Eco-Flo Satin Shene to get a softer more matte finish on top of Fiebing's Black Oil Dye. It really did not work out well. The Satin Shene pooled in random places and never applied smooth not matter how many times I tried to redistribute it. After the finish dried, it created a rather uneven looking finish. I was pretty disgusted so I set it aside on a work table which I didn't think about it at the time, but it was in front of a window and the sun did something even nastier to the already ugly finish. The very top surface looks spotty *and* brownish as if it were bleached. So my questions are... 1) Which black dye and finish do you use when you want to achieve a more matte finish on veg tan? 2) Do you think there is any way for me to salvage the messed up leather? Could I chemically strip the finish and redye it? Or should I just paint it? Thanks for your help! Quote
Members David8386 Posted December 28, 2012 Members Report Posted December 28, 2012 You can use deglazer to strip off the satin sheen. I am not sure what the base is in the satin sheen if you know you might be able to use thinner or acetone to strip it. In the future if you are doing the whole piece black use vinegroon to color it black and then use bag kote or something like that. I stay away from the Eco flow stuff except for a few of the pro stain water based dyes. Good luck David Quote
King's X Posted December 28, 2012 Report Posted December 28, 2012 Never mix Oil & Water! I really like the new professional water stains and would use equal products for finishing. They do have a matted finish product. I mostly use the Fiebing's product and I have found that Bag or Tan Kote will usually give me a low sheen finish especially if I very lightly buff it after it completely dries. Now, I am not sure of the Deglazer saving your project. Good luck and let us know what happens. Sorry! Quote
Members Studio-N Posted December 28, 2012 Members Report Posted December 28, 2012 I have always been happy with Leather Balm. Basically, it is carnuba wax. It gives a soft luster and good water protection. Pretty much don't care for any of the eco-foo foo water based products. Quote
Members Tina Posted December 29, 2012 Members Report Posted December 29, 2012 I use Angelus black spirit dye and Angelus Matte acryllic finisher. The finish comes out perfectly matte IF I use the airgun, otherwise it could be some shine to it. Quote
Members Mokosh Posted December 29, 2012 Author Members Report Posted December 29, 2012 I have always been happy with Leather Balm. Basically, it is carnuba wax. It gives a soft luster and good water protection. Pretty much don't care for any of the eco-foo foo water based products. Yeah, I was thinking on the lines of using something like this in the future. Or even some sort of oil? I want it to look pretty natural. Thanks for the thoughtful replies everyone! Quote
Members billymac814 Posted January 18, 2013 Members Report Posted January 18, 2013 I finish my holsters that I dye with pro oil black using resolene mixed about 50/50 with water, it ends up being pretty much satin. More resolene makes it more shiny, more water makes it less shiny. I apply it with a sponge brush unless its an antiqued item then I spray it. I also oil them before I finish them. I used to use Bag kote and it was ok but when I started diluting the resolene I found it works better for me. Leather balm is good for some things but it definitely isn't a satin finish. Fiebings pro oil dye really isn't an oil based dye, its a spirit dye. I'm sure you could use the satin sheen over it, I'd experiment with scraps and see if it was they way you applied it. I love the pro oil dye, I hardly have to buff any excess off of it, I would suggest anyone using angelus dyes to give it a try. I tested every black Angelus makes(about 5) and all of them required much more buffing than the Pro Oil dye although less than regular Fiebings. Quote
Members HellcatLeathers Posted January 21, 2013 Members Report Posted January 21, 2013 If you use the Eco-Flo dyes and stains, you have to use the Eco-Flo finishes, waxes, etc. Don't mix Fiebings and Eco-Flo. I am not happy with any black I have: Fiebings USMC Black, Fiebings Black Oil Dye, Eco-Flo Smoke Black......anybody have any other suggestions? Quote
Members billymac814 Posted January 21, 2013 Members Report Posted January 21, 2013 What about it are you not happy about? I've tried literally every black dye I could find and did tests on 5 different Angelus black dyes, USMC black and pro oil black and hands down the Pro oil was much easier to work with. Vinegaroon makes a nice black but I don't believe it to be practical for real production IMHO. It slows me down too much unless maybe you do your molding with the roon it just adds too much drying time. Also I didn't bother testing Eco flow stuff so I can't comment on it. If you use the Eco-Flo dyes and stains, you have to use the Eco-Flo finishes, waxes, etc. Don't mix Fiebings and Eco-Flo. I am not happy with any black I have: Fiebings USMC Black, Fiebings Black Oil Dye, Eco-Flo Smoke Black......anybody have any other suggestions? Quote
Members HellcatLeathers Posted January 22, 2013 Members Report Posted January 22, 2013 The Fiebings oil dye is like working with ink to me......I guess I prefer a thicker dye or stain.... Quote
Members piddler Posted January 27, 2013 Members Report Posted January 27, 2013 Anytime I use Black oil dye, I always let it dry completely and them buff it by hand with a scrap of sheeps wool. You can literally see the black lose any of the "prismic" coloring and just become a deep solid color. Ive never had any trouble spraying Angelus acrylic finish over it afterward. Hope it helps. Quote
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