Airbrushing Leather (Buying An Airbrush)

[GingerPowered]

5 hours ago, dikman said:

Regarding masking tape you could look at modelling shops (plastic kits etc) they will have suitable masking tapes. I have several airbrushes of various types (don't keep them in dark places, I think they breed!) some are "cheapies" from ebay/aliexpress and they all work fine. One thing that can help is to carefully polish the needle tips. I also have one like fred showed, I thought it might suffer from pulsing but it works surprisingly well.

You might be able to find used airbrushes/compressors cheap on ebay/google marketplace, could be an inexpensive way to start.

Hahaha! That's funny...Thank you very much, I think the biggest issue with the tape is the flexibility of the surface so I was looking for a liquid mask but that's a no go. The trim on some of these bags is such a tight squeeze but I will definitely take your advice and I appreciate your help. 

[GingerPowered]

4 hours ago, Beehive said:

Lots of people following the thread. 

 

Y'all can ask questions. Anything you'd like to know on airbrushes and leather.

Well since you said that....I got more... how the hell do I even begin to figure out how to match leather paint to what I'm painting?. I've been struggling with this for years!. I can never match the color, I'm about to hire someone because it's driving me insane. Any advice? 

[Beehive]

14 hours ago, GingerPowered said:

Well since you said that....I got more... how the hell do I even begin to figure out how to match leather paint to what I'm painting?. I've been struggling with this for years!. I can never match the color, I'm about to hire someone because it's driving me insane. Any advice? 

 

Look up color mixing. They'll show what colors need to be mixed to be close to the color you want. Then it trial and error. 

Use a cool color light source. Nothing warm(yellowish looking light). You want the blueish type light to show the true colors of what you're using. 

The only thing that'll prevent you from color matching is the cost of the paint. It's only money. 

 

I'm sure you've seen the Angelus, "Best sellers kit". 12 colors all together for $40. Start there. It has the primary colors plus others. Follow it up with a color matching website. Search for, "color matching tool".  

 

You can do it. 

[dikman]

As Beehive said colour mixing/matching is trial-and-error. As for compressors I have several (different sizes) two of which are the generic airbrush types, they are identical except one has a tank. While the tank-less one works ok my advice is to get one with a tank if possible. These are often sold as a "kit" with a double-action airbrush, try and get a gravity feed airbrush and one with a reasonable capacity cup (some of them come with different size cups, which can be useful).

[Beehive]

16 hours ago, dikman said:

As Beehive said colour mixing/matching is trial-and-error. As for compressors I have several (different sizes) two of which are the generic airbrush types, they are identical except one has a tank. While the tank-less one works ok my advice is to get one with a tank if possible. These are often sold as a "kit" with a double-action airbrush, try and get a gravity feed airbrush and one with a reasonable capacity cup (some of them come with different size cups, which can be useful).

 

Have you seen the other airbrush stuff at harbor freight? They have the, "Black Widow" line of stuff. Pencil and trigger style airbrushes. To include a duel outlet compressor with a tank. All together, $70ish for the airbrush, another $200 for the compressor. With the store offering a warranty. 

Compared to Amazon. Decent, single outlet compressor with tank, ~$100. Sometimes it includes a generic brand, cheapo airbrush. All the hose with quick disconnects. No warranty besides the return period window. 

 

Before I bought the low level kit. I was using a compressor from Hobby Lobby. Big POS but it survived me for over a decade. Then Old faithful finally gave up. 

 

For the size of pieces I spray. I simply do not need a tank. After all, I'm not airbrushing a naked lady on a show car. I personally have had no problems with an airbrush set-up meant to do t-shirts. 

[GingerPowered]

18 hours ago, dikman said:

As Beehive said colour mixing/matching is trial-and-error. As for compressors I have several (different sizes) two of which are the generic airbrush types, they are identical except one has a tank. While the tank-less one works ok my advice is to get one with a tank if possible. These are often sold as a "kit" with a double-action airbrush, try and get a gravity feed airbrush and one with a reasonable capacity cup (some of them come with different size cups, which can be useful).

Thank you, I think I will take that advice.. may I ask your opinion of this kit please

 

https://a.co/d/ic22YF1

[Beehive]

1 minute ago, GingerPowered said:

Thank you, I think I will take that advice.. may I ask your opinion of this kit please

 

https://a.co/d/ic22YF1

 

That's pretty much the same as the Harbor freight combo kit but they toss in a couple extra airbrushes and charge you an extra $30 bucks. 

[GingerPowered]

21 hours ago, Beehive said:

 

Look up color mixing. They'll show what colors need to be mixed to be close to the color you want. Then it trial and error. 

Use a cool color light source. Nothing warm(yellowish looking light). You want the blueish type light to show the true colors of what you're using. 

The only thing that'll prevent you from color matching is the cost of the paint. It's only money. 

 

I'm sure you've seen the Angelus, "Best sellers kit". 12 colors all together for $40. Start there. It has the primary colors plus others. Follow it up with a color matching website. Search for, "color matching tool".  

 

You can do it. 

Thank you, yes I have all Angelus paints, I have to match very specific colors of handbags. I've been trying for 2 years and I simply cannot match them exactly, I'll get in the vacinity of the right color lol. I have 0 and I mean 0 artistic abilities so I think I'm shooting too high here. I continue to try, I'm not one to quit but this seriously is driving me insane. 

4 minutes ago, GingerPowered said:

Thank you, I think I will take that advice.. may I ask your opinion of this kit please

 

https://a.co/d/ic22YF1

Thank you... I'll check out my local HF first see if they have any in stock, I'm kinda in the middle of nowhere so I'll see if I get lucky. Thank you

[Beehive]

Go to the source. Angelus has their own color mixing information. 

 

 

https://angelusdirect.com/blogs/news/the-art-of-color-matching-with-angelus-paint

[Zonker1972]

you may also want to look for an airbrush that has a fan tip. airbrushes normally spray a cone of paint. to effectively cover something with dye a fan pattern would be better. I have several Badger Airbrushes, yet another hobby but the Paasche TS is the one that I have for spraying fan patterns. I mainly use it to spray clear on small motorcycle parts. 

this kit has all you need. 

https://www.paascheairbrush.com/TS-3AS

the smaller 0.25 and 0.38 heads may work with dye with increased dye thinning but the 0.6 fan head should work really well with minimal thinning.

Zonker

[dikman]

GP, that kit should be fine. The black airbrush is what's termed an external mix, the paint is sucked up by venturi action, they do not do as fine a spray or have the control of a double action gravity feed (the other two) but are great for covering larger areas. They are also much easier to clean! If you bought that kit as Beehive mentioned it might be worth considering adding quick-release air fittings, they're not necessary but do make it easier to swap between airbrushes.

[fredk]

A suction feed a/b needs a compressor with a lot of free-air delivery and a higher pressure

[GingerPowered]

On 2/10/2025 at 4:56 PM, dikman said:

GP, that kit should be fine. The black airbrush is what's termed an external mix, the paint is sucked up by venturi action, they do not do as fine a spray or have the control of a double action gravity feed (the other two) but are great for covering larger areas. They are also much easier to clean! If you bought that kit as Beehive mentioned it might be worth considering adding quick-release air fittings, they're not necessary but do make it easier to swap between airbrushes.

Thank you, I had no idea what the difference was lol I have a lot of learning to do. I did end up buying the one from my link only because HF didn't have any near me. I have no idea how to do any of this so I'm flying blind but I'm sure I'll learn. My biggest obstacle is matching paint, that I think is going to be my undoing. But if I can nail airbrushing bags, this will seriously change my small business so I'm really hoping I can do this. You all have been so helpful and I'm grateful!

[GingerPowered]

On 2/10/2025 at 12:33 PM, Zonker1972 said:

you may also want to look for an airbrush that has a fan tip. airbrushes normally spray a cone of paint. to effectively cover something with dye a fan pattern would be better. I have several Badger Airbrushes, yet another hobby but the Paasche TS is the one that I have for spraying fan patterns. I mainly use it to spray clear on small motorcycle parts. 

this kit has all you need. 

https://www.paascheairbrush.com/TS-3AS

the smaller 0.25 and 0.38 heads may work with dye with increased dye thinning but the 0.6 fan head should work really well with minimal thinning.

Zonker

Thank you for the advice. I am spraying paint not dye, not sure if it matters but wants to clarify. I did assume that I will purchase a good gun after I get the hang of it. I have seen many people reference this brand so I'm sure I'll be back when I'm ready to pick more brains. I don't know if I need to thin this paint, I have seen contradicting advice. That and a filter? I feel like I have endless questions but I guess that's expecting when learning something new

[GingerPowered]

 just got my airbrush kit in! I appreciate all the advice I've gotten here. I know I have lots of practice ahead of me. You all have been so amazing! 

Follow up questions...Are polishing needles really necessary? I've gotten contradicting info on that. Cleaning solution, what do you all use or Make your own? 

[fredk]

5 minutes ago, GingerPowered said:

...Are polishing needles really necessary? I've gotten contradicting info on that. 

Not absolutely necessary but it helps

6 minutes ago, GingerPowered said:

Cleaning solution, what do you all use or Make your own? 

Don't use anything very aggressive. The a/b has tiny rubber seals inside it which can be destroyed by strong cleaner*. As you will be using acrylics an alcohol can be used to clean it out. A rinse will do, with a complete strip down only occasionally.

On a strip down; do it on a tray with a big magnet handy on the tray. Let the small steel parts go to the magnet, that lessens the chance of loosing them

* there are special dedicated a/b cleaners available

[Beehive]

I second the alcohol. I use the 91% rubbing alcohol ~after~ a warm soapy water rinse. Holding the airbrush under the running faucet, while spraying and letting it gurgle. Anything left is poured out the cup and then the rubbing alcohol rinse. 

Leaving a tiny bit alcohol in the cup as it's stored. 

[dikman]

If you're spraying acrylics there's a huge range of ready-to-spray paints available from model-making stores, also used by fishing lure makers.

[Beehive]

Spraying the hands on a clock you're putting together. Adding leaf shapes to your backpack. If you have any kids or grandkids. Hook them up with airbrushed t-shirt or pillow case. 

The t-shirt paints are low priced enough, you can go wild. Learn an airbrush. 

 

I've tried wiping finish on leather. Acrylic sealer and other things. I make a mess. It looks a mess. So, these days, I only use an airbrush. It really makes things nice. Smooth and even finish.

[fredk]

1 hour ago, dikman said:

If you're spraying acrylics there's a huge range of ready-to-spray paints available from model-making stores, also used by fishing lure makers.

and they are cheaper. They work great on leather. They're the only paints I use

Sometimes I spray a coat or three of resolene because I've found that brushing or sponging it on will lift the carefully made dyeing 

[GingerPowered]

On 2/14/2025 at 5:00 PM, fredk said:

Not absolutely necessary but it helps

Don't use anything very aggressive. The a/b has tiny rubber seals inside it which can be destroyed by strong cleaner*. As you will be using acrylics an alcohol can be used to clean it out. A rinse will do, with a complete strip down only occasionally.

On a strip down; do it on a tray with a big magnet handy on the tray. Let the small steel parts go to the magnet, that lessens the chance of loosing them

* there are special dedicated a/b cleaners available

Thank you! I didn't see it necessary to spent so much on cleaner, I knew you all did something that was easy yet effective. I will get a magnet tray, that's great advice thank you

[GingerPowered]

17 hours ago, dikman said:

If you're spraying acrylics there's a huge range of ready-to-spray paints available from model-making stores, also used by fishing lure makers.

Thank you, I'm using acrylics on leather handbags.... I've only ever used Angelus paints for fear that anything less would create a less then perfect result. But I've not tried other kinds of paints though so I appreciate that

[GingerPowered]

15 hours ago, fredk said:

and they are cheaper. They work great on leather. They're the only paints I use

Sometimes I spray a coat or three of resolene because I've found that brushing or sponging it on will lift the carefully made dyeing 

Thank you, I've not used anything other then Angelus but I am gonna try others. I do have resolene , I've used it before but for touch ups. For sealing an entire bag,  should I use the sealant Angelus makes or resolene? Not sure if there's a difference other then sheen

[Beehive]

2 hours ago, GingerPowered said:

Thank you, I've not used anything other then Angelus but I am gonna try others. I do have resolene , I've used it before but for touch ups. For sealing an entire bag,  should I use the sealant Angelus makes or resolene? Not sure if there's a difference other then sheen

 

I personally consider Angelus as a commercial grade. Fiebing as a general use type deal.

Is there any difference between the two? Depends on what level either finish will allow oil to pass through it. Fiebing finishes are designed for levels of maintenance you can do. How much it repels moisture. How much it'll let pass or not. Think of a saddle in the rain or a nice purse that doesn't. 

Angelus, they're big into sneaker shoes. I've tried oiling after I've sprayed. The leather is fairly sealed. 

I oil my stuff way before it's finished. By the time the Angelus wears down from use. Maybe the item will need more oil. It'll be a while for that anyways. 

Edited February 16 by Beehive

[fredk]

2 hours ago, GingerPowered said:

. . . For sealing an entire bag,  should I use the sealant Angelus makes or resolene? Not sure if there's a difference other then sheen

If using Angelus paints I'd suggest using their recommended sealer. The Angelus paint may have an adverse reaction to Resolene or any other sealer