Basic Saddle Stitch Tutorial By Nigel Armitage

[Dangerous Beans]

Thank you folks, it was just a helping hand video, if I can resolve my camera issue I will do some high detail stuff so you can see all the finer points in HD. I'm looking at funding a canon 5D MkII which has HD video, with the lenses I have, I should be able to really up the quality. If anyone wants one of My 5D's to assist with this, shout up.

Naturalisme, I get my thead from Abbey England. http://www.abbeyengland.com/

Nige

[Cameroo]

I'd like to thank you for taking the time to make these videos as well. Stitching seems like a fairly simple process but I never really thought about some of the things you mentioned before. They really helped me be more consistent, and also made me much faster. I subscribed to your Youtube channel and look forward to seeing what's next!

[cem]

Nige, great videos there will definitely pass them on to a couple of newbies to leather sewing I know. You do a lot better than I can with the awl changing I'm a lefty as well and get too jumbled up trying to show right handers how to sew.

Just one thing though Tiger thread is actually polyester not nylon. I've been using it for a number of years as well excellent stuff though I wish Julius Koch (the manufacturer) would provide colour charts to Abbey as some have different codes even though they are the same colour.

Any chance you buy in store and could give a run down of the colours they have in stock as I've been trying to get them to provide some samples or even just a pic on the shelf for awhile with no luck either.

Cheers,

Clair

[bdickason]

I have a question, I currently use a marking wheel, and i have a problem getting the diamond awl through the leather especially thick stuff then once its through it doesnt come out easily, it kinda sticks. [...] you make it look so easy, I must be doing something wrong as I need to seriously force it through, but with what appears such a simple movement, I can't see what?? Any ideas??

Just a question about the response to Pip's statement. Pip said he is using a marking wheel and an awl to make the holes. Isn't the main difference that you pre-punch the holes with your Pricking Iron and just widen them with your awl instead of using the awl to cut the leather? Or am I missing somthing?

Thanks,

Bill

[Dangerous Beans]

Just a question about the response to Pip's statement. Pip said he is using a marking wheel and an awl to make the holes. Isn't the main difference that you pre-punch the holes with your Pricking Iron and just widen them with your awl instead of using the awl to cut the leather? Or am I missing somthing?

Thanks,

Bill

That depends on how hard you hit the pricking iron, if you're stitching two pieces together, you'd mark the front with the pricking iron, not going all the way through, then use the awl to make the rest of the hole in that piece an on through to the back.

If you're making an item with three or four layers, you can use the iron on each piece to make it a lot easier.

Pip, Ive done a quick video using the stitch wheel and awl to try and answer some of your questions. Hope it helps.

Edited February 3, 2013 by Dangerous Beans

[silverwingit]

Hey, Nige -

In this terrific video you seem to use the terms "pricking wheel" and "overstitch wheel" interchangeably. Maybe you could provide a bit of terminology clarification for those of us on this side of the big water who might be confused because we are used to the Tandy or Osborne overstitch wheels. As I understand, Tandy and Osborne overstitch wheels differ from a pricking wheel in that their stitch marks are just a point rather than an angled "slit" shaped mark as with a true pricking wheel. I think of a pricking wheel as a sort of circular prickng iron, though it makes only a diagonal mark, not an actual cut or depression into the leather like a prickng iron does when you strike it with a hammer or maul.

As I look closely at the marks your wheel makes, they appear to be angled, slightly elongated slits, not just points, or are my old eyes failing me? If that were the case I would call the wheel you are using a pricking wheel, not an overstitch wheel at least so far as those of us who are used to the Tandy or Osborne tools are concerned. Pricking wheels leave that diagonal mark as a reference by which to maintain the angle of your awl from hole to hole. They are hard to come by Stateside. So far as I am aware, we are limited to an antique one from Bruce Johnson or the like:

http://brucejohnsonl...and-channelers/

or purchase a new one from a Great Britain source like Joseph Dixon.

http://leather-tools.net/

I'd like to find a Stateside source a new prickng wheels but I know of none.

Nigel, thank you once again for so freely providing the wisdom of a true master to us mere wannabes.

Michelle

Edited February 3, 2013 by silverwingit

[Dangerous Beans]

Hey, Nige -

In this terrific video you seem to use the terms "pricking wheel" and "overstitch wheel" interchangeably. Maybe you could provide a bit of terminology clarification for those of us on this side of the big water who might be confused because we are used to the Tandy or Osborne overstitch wheels. As I understand, Tandy and Osborne overstitch wheels differ from a pricking wheel in that their stitch marks are just a point rather than an angled "slit" shaped mark as with a true pricking wheel. I think of a pricking wheel as a sort of circular prickng iron, though it makes only a diagonal mark, not an actual cut or depression into the leather like a prickng iron does when you strike it with a hammer or maul.

As I look closely at the marks your wheel makes, they appear to be angled, slightly elongated slits, not just points, or are my old eyes failing me? If that were the case I would call the wheel you are using a pricking wheel, not an overstitch wheel at least so far as those of us who are used to the Tandy or Osborne tools are concerned. Pricking wheels leave that diagonal mark as a reference by which to maintain the angle of your awl from hole to hole. They are hard to come by Stateside. So far as I am aware, we are limited to an antique one from Bruce Johnson or the like:

http://brucejohnsonl...and-channelers/

or purchase a new one from a Great Britain source like Joseph Dixon.

http://leather-tools.net/

I'd like to find a Stateside source a new prickng wheels but I know of none.

Nigel, thank you once again for so freely providing the wisdom of a true master to us mere wannabes.

Michelle

Hi Michelle,

You know me... Coming up with the wrong term again... I have both pricking wheels and overstitch wheels. They are basically the same thing, or at least do the same job. An overstitch wheel will leave a dimple impression in the leather, a pricking wheel is usually sharper and dependant on maker, sometimes slanted.

The pricking wheel as I understand it is harder to make and more expensive, because the awl overrides the mark left the question is are they worth the extra? Especially when an overstitch wheel does the same job.

Maybe it's this cross terminoligy that's trying to resolve the iner conflict of which is better.

Note to self for videos... Be concise! Be accurate! And stop waffling. Sorry.

Nige

[silverwingit]

A bit of pondering about the difference between pricking and overstitch wheels...

Overstitch wheels as their name implies, in addition to marking stich hole locations, are also used to refine the appearance of stitchwork by running the wheel to and fro over stitchwork that has already been laid into a stitch groove. I'd guess that a pricking wheel wouldn't produce a pleasing result if used similarly.

To expand a bit more on that thought, maybe it's me but I associate stitch groovers with overstitch wheels, but not with pricking wheels (or chisels). With a stitch groove, the stitchwork is almost forced to lie down into the groove, making the stitches lie in a straight line. I don't see pricking wheels or chisels used much if at all in conjunction with stitch groovers. With a pricking wheel or iron (and no stitch groove), the stitchwork is designed such that each stitch ends at the bottom of the angled slit left by the awl and the next stitch starts at the top of the next slit (or vice-versa). Thus these stitches lie in a sort of zig-zag pattern that has a different "eye appeal" than stitches that lie in a straight groove. I know that stitch grooves are intended to protect stitchwork by allowing the stitches to lie below the surface of the leather. But in "American" leatherwork I see grooves used almost universally even where there would be no concern for friction or contact against another object. In contrast, the British stitching I see needs no stitch groove to lie down into the surface of the leather, apparently if the thread is pulled tight enough.

Therefore, while we are on the subject of stitching nomenclature I have a question.

I know for example, Nigel, that you prefer not to use stitch groovers for "external" stitchwork (stitches that "show"). That seems to be consistent with the work of other British Master Leatherworkers I am aware of such as Valerie Michael, the author of an excellent book titled, "The Leatherworking Manual." Is this lack of use of a stitch groove consistent enough across those who use pricking chisels or wheels to term it the "British" style of stitching? If so what might one call work that almost uniformly combines an overstitch wheel with a stitch groover on external stitching? I trace that trend to Al Stohlman's famous book, "The Art of Hand Sewing Leather." I'm not sure where it came from before that. I suspect it has a Mexican heritage, since much of the American Western style of leatherwork and carving has its origin south of the border. For the sake of discussion, let's call it the "Stohlman' style.

The answer to that question would clarify my thinking and permit a more consistent and precise dialog amongst us "leatherheads."

Thanks,

Michelle

Edited February 4, 2013 by silverwingit

[jpguest]

Great video's Nigel, thank you for taking the time to share with us. As I have not attempted to hand sew yet, your video's have given me the confidence to have a go. Love the log as well!

Thanks,

Jason

[Harag]

Great video's Nigel, thank you for taking the time to share with us. As I have not attempted to hand sew yet, your video's have given me the confidence to have a go. Love the log as well!

Thanks,

Jason

I completely agree with this, I'm new to leather working and planning on learning carving & dyes first. The videos have really helped me to "have a go" as well