rivetandleatherco Report post Posted January 5, 2013 Just bought a cast iron boss! Advice on set up would be great. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chief31794 Report post Posted January 5, 2013 (edited) The manual has a very good guide to set up. If you didn't get a manual it is available for download in PDF format from the Tippmann site. Start at the beginning and go right by the manual. One of the most important things I've found is proper needle size, use the guide they give you and test it as described in the manual (the needle slide test). Most problems I've found don't have a lot to do with set up, do it by the book and only adjust stitch length after that as the thickness of the material changes, then make sure you are operating the machine methodically, handle all the way down then all the way up. It takes some getting used to in that you have to hold the material with one hand and operate the machine with the other. The videos that they ship with the machines now are also available for download on the site and are worth watching. Chief Edited January 5, 2013 by Chief31794 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rivetandleatherco Report post Posted January 5, 2013 Thanks . No manual used off the ebay. 950 with a fkat bed attachment material guide a nd extra bobins and a repair kit. Do you have one if you do how does it work for you? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chief31794 Report post Posted January 5, 2013 Thanks . No manual used off the ebay. 950 with a fkat bed attachment material guide a nd extra bobins and a repair kit. Do you have one if you do how does it work for you? I do have one and it works really well, I don't sew a lot but when I do sew it does a great job. Took a little tweaking to understand it and now I don't hesitate to use it when the situation warrants. You can download the manual from Tippmann whether you bought it from them or not. Chief Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
trekster Report post Posted January 5, 2013 If I recall correctly, the Tippmann site has two "slightly" different manuals available for download, one for each type of casting. Be sure the machine is cleaned well and lubricated in all the points the manual shows. Setup thread tensions as the manual recommends... and you should be good to go. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DuncanSinclair Report post Posted January 5, 2013 Along this line, How have you guys mounted yours? My wife got me one for Christmas.... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chief31794 Report post Posted January 6, 2013 Along this line, How have you guys mounted yours? My wife got me one for Christmas.... Absolutely, I have it well secured to a bench. There are very stern warnings in the manual about securing the machine. The operation of the handle could lead to it tipping over I think. Chief Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rivetandleatherco Report post Posted January 6, 2013 What year is your boss? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chief31794 Report post Posted January 6, 2013 What year is your boss? I don't have any idea, I assume it's about 2005 or so. Chief Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
trekster Report post Posted January 6, 2013 My bench space is limited, and I must share my area with my other craft - paracord bracelets. However, as Chief has iterated, it is extremely important to attach the Boss to something really solid. I have mine mounted to a 12" x 18" piece of 3/4" plywood. Then when I am sewing, I put the Boss on the corner of my bench and use two C-clamps to secure it to my bench top. When using my #277 thread, I found that the upstroke requires considerable force to draw the needle thread around the bobbin and cinch the stitch in two pieces of 8-9 oz. veg tan leather. I done everything imaginable to make the stroke smoother (lubricated metal moving parts, double checked timing and thread tension, etc.), but so far I've not been successful. I get a fairly nice looking stitch, so have resolved myself to the fact that the upstroke simply requires some muscle. I'll admit I was rather disillusioned, in the beginning, about the force required to make the upstroke, because I viewed , on YouTube. In this video it appears that he is sewing and both the down and the upstroke require VERY little muscle involved in EITHER the down or the upstroke. Also, it appears like his machine is mounted on a board about the size of mine, but I'm not sure his board is even secured to his bench. So, exactly why my Boss requires the "muscle" on the upstroke, remains a mystery to me - even today. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rivetandleatherco Report post Posted January 6, 2013 In regaurds to mounting i will be building a oak cobblers bench similar to the one on the tippmann web site but not built out of stained 2x4s Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chief31794 Report post Posted January 6, 2013 My bench space is limited, and I must share my area with my other craft - paracord bracelets. However, as Chief has iterated, it is extremely important to attach the Boss to something really solid. I have mine mounted to a 12" x 18" piece of 3/4" plywood. Then when I am sewing, I put the Boss on the corner of my bench and use two C-clamps to secure it to my bench top. When using my #277 thread, I found that the upstroke requires considerable force to draw the needle thread around the bobbin and cinch the stitch in two pieces of 8-9 oz. veg tan leather. I done everything imaginable to make the stroke smoother (lubricated metal moving parts, double checked timing and thread tension, etc.), but so far I've not been successful. I get a fairly nice looking stitch, so have resolved myself to the fact that the upstroke simply requires some muscle. I'll admit I was rather disillusioned, in the beginning, about the force required to make the upstroke, because I viewed , on YouTube. In this video it appears that he is sewing and both the down and the upstroke require VERY little muscle involved in EITHER the down or the upstroke. Also, it appears like his machine is mounted on a board about the size of mine, but I'm not sure his board is even secured to his bench. So, exactly why my Boss requires the "muscle" on the upstroke, remains a mystery to me - even today. Trekster, I'm not sure, mine doesn't require a significant amount of force on the handle in either direction, however, I am normally sewing through 3 layers of 4-6 oz (depending on the project). I occasionally sew through three layers of 8/9oz and it stilll doesn't require much effort (thankfully). Chief Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rivetandleatherco Report post Posted January 6, 2013 I have seen where several people gave added a spring thar pushes the handle back to the up position. Maybe that will help aldo the cast aluminum modle have this added i think Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rivetandleatherco Report post Posted January 6, 2013 (edited) Cheif is your boss cast iron? Edited January 6, 2013 by rivetandleatherco Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mlapaglia Report post Posted January 7, 2013 My bench space is limited, and I must share my area with my other craft - paracord bracelets. However, as Chief has iterated, it is extremely important to attach the Boss to something really solid. I have mine mounted to a 12" x 18" piece of 3/4" plywood. Then when I am sewing, I put the Boss on the corner of my bench and use two C-clamps to secure it to my bench top. When using my #277 thread, I found that the upstroke requires considerable force to draw the needle thread around the bobbin and cinch the stitch in two pieces of 8-9 oz. veg tan leather. I done everything imaginable to make the stroke smoother (lubricated metal moving parts, double checked timing and thread tension, etc.), but so far I've not been successful. I get a fairly nice looking stitch, so have resolved myself to the fact that the upstroke simply requires some muscle. I'll admit I was rather disillusioned, in the beginning, about the force required to make the upstroke, because I viewed , on YouTube. In this video it appears that he is sewing and both the down and the upstroke require VERY little muscle involved in EITHER the down or the upstroke. Also, it appears like his machine is mounted on a board about the size of mine, but I'm not sure his board is even secured to his bench. So, exactly why my Boss requires the "muscle" on the upstroke, remains a mystery to me - even today. What needle are you using on the 207 thread? It could be a different shape of 794 would be better for you or a new one that is sharp. I use 794 S 200's on 277 and 207 thread and the upstroke is never that hard. Even through 3 layers of 9/10. Is it possible that your leather is old and dried out? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wizcrafts Report post Posted January 7, 2013 A few months ago I was sewing together an ammo pouch. It consisted of 3 layers of 6-7 ounce veg-tan leather. My CB4500 sewed flawlessly until I rounded the last corner and headed into the stretch. With Cabbage in the head, bubblegum stitcking to the railing and toiletpaper wiping up the rear, Feedlebaum moved up and broke my #25 needle. Then another, then another! The 2 inches remaining had to be hand sewn using an awl and barbed needle. I concluded that there was rawhide inside the filler between the layers, on the problem run. Rawhide will do it to ya every time. If I had know it was in there I would have sewn the pouch at home, on my Union Lockstitch machine. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
trekster Report post Posted January 7, 2013 What needle are you using on the 207 thread? It could be a different shape of 794 would be better for you or a new one that is sharp. I use 794 S 200's on 277 and 207 thread and the upstroke is never that hard. Even through 3 layers of 9/10. Is it possible that your leather is old and dried out? Actually, I'm using 277 thread in a 200 leather point needle. My leather came from Tandy, but I suppose it could be the problem, although piercing the leather is not the problem, it's the upstroke that requires more effort. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mlapaglia Report post Posted January 7, 2013 Actually, I'm using 277 thread in a 200 leather point needle. My leather came from Tandy, but I suppose it could be the problem, although piercing the leather is not the problem, it's the upstroke that requires more effort. OK thats what I am using for thread and needle size. But is it a 794 needle? If it is whats the letter after the 794? I have seen where a dull needle will cause issues on the upstroke as strange as it sounds. If you can tell me the letter style of the needle and if its a 794 that would help. The 7x3 needle can be used for leather also but its not as good as the 794's. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
trekster Report post Posted January 7, 2013 OK thats what I am using for thread and needle size. But is it a 794 needle? If it is whats the letter after the 794? I have seen where a dull needle will cause issues on the upstroke as strange as it sounds. If you can tell me the letter style of the needle and if its a 794 that would help. The 7x3 needle can be used for leather also but its not as good as the 794's. Sorry, I'm not familiar with the 794 needle, nor have I ever used any. The one I am using is the 7x3. I changed it out a time or two, and my results were the same. What is your source for the 794's? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mlapaglia Report post Posted January 7, 2013 That may be your problem. The 7x3 needle is a round point and punches its way through the leather. The 794 needle is a chisel point and cuts its way through. This makes it easier to remove. You can get them from several places. I got my first ones right from tippmann. A good needle to use is the 794 S 200. It makes a nice line of stitches. The L and the LR also work well. Give the 794 a try and I bet you like the results. Even if it doesn't solve the upstroke issue, which I think it will, it is still a better needle to use. If you are in the United States, PM me your address and Ill send you a 794 S 200. I have 10-12 at the moment so its not an issue. Michael Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
