edinator Report post Posted January 7, 2013 Hi everyone, I'm new here and I've spent the last month browsing the vast wealth of information on this forum. I've learnt a lot already and i'm hoping you guys can provide some insight into a specific issue I have. I'm planning on creating a leather briefcase/messenger bag with pigskin lining with cowhide on the outside. I have a few questions on how I could accomplish this. How do you think they secured the lining? I am guessing they glued the pig skin and sewed but I worry that the lining may wrinkle when bending it. I've heard that you are suppose to roll it on or something but I have not found a guide on the process. Also, kind of unrelated but how does the stabilizing bar work in a bag like this? Does one of the rivets go through the metal bar? Or is it just glued in place and riveted around. Thanks in advanced! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hornm Report post Posted January 7, 2013 Any way to get a pic of what you're talking about with the stabilizer? Not quite sure I understand that part. As for the lining, 99% sure that they used contact cemtent. Haven't done many projects myself but thus far that seems to be the go-to for situations like this. Horn Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
edinator Report post Posted January 7, 2013 I'm not sure what the exact name for it is but it is the metal bar under the pig lining in the picture I linked. From what I understand, to use contact cement is to coat the entire piece of leather in the glue, stick them together, then trim the excess leather. Does this affect the flexibility of the leather too much? And how do you prevent the lining from wrinkling when bending? Thanks! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Beaverslayer Report post Posted January 7, 2013 Welcome to the forum for starters... Regarding the gluing of the pigskin liner in, if you only glue it at the edges, you will most likely get wrinkles in it as it folds. If you glue the entire liner, then sew it, the wrinkles should not be a problem Regarding that stabilizer bar, I'd just use a thick piece of veg tan, say 10/12 oz. That way if you have to, you can place extra rivets through it where needed and not have to worry about drilling new holes through the steel one after it's inside the leather. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bluesman1951 Report post Posted January 7, 2013 I would use a 3m aersol glue product like they use to attach headliners .Ease of use ,fumes and cost are considerations here . The pig skin being the least thick should be placed on the table and sprayed with the glue . The heaver piece when sprayed and tacked up is then lined up and allowed to lay down on the pig skin . Press firmly and the turn over and roll out any wrinkles with a wide roller . This will not become un bonded and in my opinion will work well .As to the bar no big deal drilling holes so why not ? Consider total thickness and rivet length before embarking down the road . Hint :auto upolstrey shops and marine supply are good sources for rivets of all lengths . Tandy deals with belts and their metal supplies are geared towards that end making the selection limited . Good luck with your project . Think simple , industrial and repeatable and the result will be harmonious always . Bill Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
edinator Report post Posted January 7, 2013 Wow great info and advice! I'm just starting out so I have a very limited supply of materials and tools. For rolling the leather after gluing, I guess I could just use a wide enough bread roller pin. For the metal bar, I've read that 16-18 gauge steel would be a good thickness. Does that sound about right? I'll have to find a source for that ... Thanks so far! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
David8386 Report post Posted January 8, 2013 Lowes or Home Depot stock metal. Or call your local heating and air conditioning shop if they don't have any they will know where to get it. David Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
edinator Report post Posted January 8, 2013 Thanks, I'll check it out. Hopefully I won't end up with too much leftover material. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Northmount Report post Posted January 8, 2013 To help reduce the wrinkling in the lining, form the leather as you glue the lining in so that it is curled about halfway to the position it will be when fully folded. I assume you are concerned with the flap. Note that the flap will not return to flat as it has to stretch the lining to do that. If you can't tolerate not being able to return to flat, then you can design (force) wrinkles in the location you want by gathering a little extra bulge in the lining as you glue it. Try it on some scrap pieces first to see if it is doing what you want it to. Tom Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
