First Cross Draw And First Revolver Holster

[Matt Alsaker]

This is my first cross draw and the first revolver holster, but the construction method and style are similar to other holsters I have done. I need to move the belt slot by the front sight closer to the firearm a little bit to provide more support to the firearm. I wasn't sure where the holster would end up after molding it when I made the template. When making the template, I wasn't sure how to measure to about for the cylinder. The holster got a little tight, I will probably add another 1/8" or so to the holster body.

I've always used Fiebing's Pro Oil Dyes. I was skeptical about using Tandy's Pro Waterstain, but gave it a shot after seeing some stuff Particle posted. I am very happy with the Pro Waterstain. There was good penetration into the leather, the color went on easy with a sponge, and there was no bleeding when I wet the holster to mold it. This is the dark brown color. I'm going to give a couple other colors a shot down the road.

Any feedback or advise for either cross draw construction or making templates for revolvers would be great. I have Al Stohlman's book and followed the directions in his holster pattern making section.

[Bob A]

The holster looks good. I like the color and have been thinking about give the Tandy Pro Waterstain a try also. Do you cut it with something or just use it strait out of the bottle?

[Matt Alsaker]

I used a damp sponge and the stain right out of the bottle.

The holster looks good. I like the color and have been thinking about give the Tandy Pro Waterstain a try also. Do you cut it with something or just use it strait out of the bottle?

[mattsh]

Looks good. I like the color. It looks to have a red hue to it. Maybe its the picture? or my monitor?

[Justinlee]

Very nice. I like the color. My next holster I make will be a cross draw for a 4" barrel revolver.

[Samalan]

Nice job!

[renegadelizard]

Nice Matt...one of these days when i stop using drum dyed, i might have to try that dye..ive heard both good and bad about it, but you nailed it...how about a pic of the back, id really like to see how it attaches..im working on my second avenger style crossdraw now...its actualy a pretty simple design once you stop trying to make it a left handed holster and think strong side speed scabbard, but im not real happy with the grip clearance...

[Matt Alsaker]

Nice Matt...one of these days when i stop using drum dyed, i might have to try that dye..ive heard both good and bad about it, but you nailed it...how about a pic of the back, id really like to see how it attaches..im working on my second avenger style crossdraw now...its actualy a pretty simple design once you stop trying to make it a left handed holster and think strong side speed scabbard, but im not real happy with the grip clearance...

That cross draw holster is already out the door. Here is the back of one of my regular holsters, the construction method is the same. This method was taken from the "Hugger" style holster Will Ghormley did in his 1911 Pattern Pack. With the body of the holster still open, it is sewn to the back plate (the "L" shaped stitch line). The body is then folded over and the two edges along the trigger guard and bottom of the rail are lined up. These edges are then stitched together all the way through the back plate (the curved stitch line). The Blue Gun is then inserted into the holster body and it is molded. Hope this helps.

[renegadelizard]

Thanks Matt. That is pretty sweet.

[Big O]

Nicely done.