How To I Properly Apply Finish To My Leather Projects?

[nicholas482109]

I've been doing leatherwork as a hobby for about 2 months now with varying success. I've done mainly belts from belt blanks from Tandy, since there is one near me. Most of what I've done is dyes and finishes. I've had some trouble getting the finishing to look the way I want but I've had good results finishing with acrylic resolene (50% water, 50% AR) in 3 or 4 thin coats. Do you guys have any other sugestions for finishing something liked a belt, made of veg-tanned leather, or other items that generally won't need recoditioning?

I'm moving into making some items for outdoor use, starting with a rifle sling. I've done some reading on here that neatsfoot oil is a good product for outdoor items. I'm unsure how to use it, do oil the peice once I dyed it (I am aware this darken the material) then allow it to dry? Does this still require a finish to make sure the dye doesn't run? Or do I use a non-water based dye after oiling the item? I personally prefer spirit based dyes.

Also, can you give me some info on how Atom Wax and Harness Dressing work? Those are two products I've read about but have never used. I saw them in the belt making tutorial on here and noticed he neatsfoot oiled the belt, applied harness dressing once it was dry, used hi-liter stain then applied Atom Wax. I don't understand that process, just looking for a little explanation.

Thanks!

[Andalusiangirl]

I would also be interested in the reply to this!

[Andalusiangirl]

Particularly interested in finishes to ensure the dye does not run before I attempt my first piece

[humperdingle]

Particularly interested in finishes to ensure the dye does not run before I attempt my first piece

Me too... I've dyed 3 pieces now - Two 'possibles' pouches and a rifle bolt holder - All of which will be worn next to clothing, so i really need to make sure the dye won't run (I used Fiebings spirit-based dyes on all of them, and Fiebings Tan-Kote over the top of that... Just wondering if the Tan-Kote shout stop the dye rubbing off?

[billymac814]

The one thing you'll soon realize pretty quickly is that nearly everyone here has their own concoction for finishing their items. You'll also find that different leathers take the dye and finish differently so you may have to modify your process to work with whatever leather you use.

My method for my belts and holsters is to first dye them with Fiebings Pro oil dye. (If youre still using regular spirit dyes you should really try the pro Oil)When dry I oil with a light coating of neatsfoot oil then finish with a coat of resolene/water. I do one coat.

If I'm doing a motorcycle seat Ill normally do the same process but when I apply the 50/50 mixture Ill normally spray it on lightly, then apply my antique then spray another light coat of finish and then follow up with some type of water proofing mixture like Aussie leather conditioner or Montana pitch blend. I've done these with or without the resolene but the antique wears off faster without it, the dressing type waterproofer does little for the antique.

On occasion Ill use the leather balm with Atom wax but I've found it not to be quite as permanent as the resolene and it usually will need reapplied at some point, I think that its more of a conditioner/polish type product than a "finish" but it can be used as a type of finish considering it'll offer some layer of protection and adds a shine.

I use Wickett and Craig leather and those steps work well with it. I've use other brands of leather before and some feel more porous and take the dye and finish differently sometimes with mixed results and often times ill have to follow up with another coat of resolene.

Just experiment a bit and find a method that works for you and the items you're making. There's more right ways of doing it than wrong ways.

[Andalusiangirl]

Thank you!

[nicholas482109]

Thanks billymac, that was kind of what I was planning on doing once I get back into making some pieces. I'm finishing making a stitching horse since i'm tired of belt blanks. The back of Al Stohlman's "The Art of Hand Sewing Leather" nhas prints on how to make it and it is fairly easy to follow.

[humperdingle]

Well, I was experimenting with Fiebings spirit dye today on a scrap bit of leather...

I tried the mid brown dye, let it dry and then coated half with Fiebings 'tan kote' and the other half just with olive oil (somebody had suggested that on another thread)

The tan-kote gave the same, slightly patchy sheen/gloss finish I'd used on a couple of previous projects, and I wasn't particularly happy with those. Managed to get a finish back on them, but only after some work with a wet sponge to even it out.

The olive oil... Wow! I really love the matt finish it leaves. It does soak in to the leather readily, but 3 or 4 light coats, and it looks nice. So I made a rifle bolt holder and used the same procedure... I think it came out alright. Not sure about how things will pan out long term, but if it gets worn, another coat or two of the oil will freshen it up.

Seems to be colourfast, too, at least with a dry wipe.

[SmokeCigars]

Test the atom wax with a stained piece of scrap first. If you apply it with a cloth, sponge, brush, or anything you rub the surface with, it will remove some finish.

I've heard atom wax works really good with an airbrush applied in thin coats, but I don't have an airbrush.

[Cyberthrasher]

Just remember that Tan-Kote is a finish and Olive Oil (or any oil) is a conditioner. The oil won't protect your dye at all, it will only feed the leather.

Did you try thinning the Tan-Kote? Most finish products will require thinning in order to apply them evenly, which will also reduce the amount of sheen on them.