Difference between undercuts.

[Tina]

Hi all,

I would like someone to give me a hint of the differences between 2 undercut beveler tools, number B892 and B893. On the picture from different suppliers it doen't show good (actually, they look the same?). Can someone plese help me?

[steveh]

These tools do look very similar and there sizes are the same 1/8x1/4, I dont have these tools but the difference may be one is smooth and the other is checkerd. Small undercut bevelers are used on scallops on leaves and flowers, and lightly pushed up to raise the petals. Larger undercut bevelers are used on the inside radius of scroll work. Hope this helps some.

[ClayB]

They are both smooth, one is just a bigger than the other. I had pictures of the different undercut bevelers, pro petals, and petal lifters. I'll look and see if they are still on my computer somewhere. They all do sort of the same thing but in a different way.

[Tina]

Hi and Super Thank Clay & Steveh.

That is what I would like to do, "cut under to lift up" and get a bigger contrast. I just finished part of a project tonight and would have loved a tool like this, It would have been purrrrfect for my lioness' tounge:-)

[ClayB]

I got around to taking some pictures of the different tools that you can use to undercut.

The first are Craftool undercut bevelers.

These have sort of a square end with rounded corners. They end is blunt and doesn't really cut into the leather. They come in two sizes and work best for striaght lines.

The next are Barry King petal lifters.

These have more of a rounded end and it is really blunt. I think the main use for them is on the inside curves on flower petals. It pushes the leather up in these areas and gives it sort of a ridge.

The next are Bob Beard sharp angle undercut bevelers (I think that's what he calls them)

These have a really steep angle and are pretty sharp. I like them for the inside curves on oak leaves and things like that. They really cut into the leather and make a higher ridge than Barry's do. If you aren't careful they go right through the leather and into your marble underneath it.

Then there are Jeff Mosby's pro petal tools. I have 4 sizes, he may have more. These are REALLY sharp! The will go into the leather as far as you want and when you lift up on them while they are in the leather, you can get a really nice ridge.

Here I have used each tool. From left to right, Craftool undercut beveler, Barry King, Bob Beard, Pro Petal

And from top to bottom, Craftool, Barry King, Bob Beard, Pro Petal.

I find I use the pro petal tools the most for the effects that I like. I have several different makes of pro petal, Craftool, Osborne, Mosby. I think that Norm Lynds also makes them.

Clay

[superchute]

you can build our own pro petal. I made to after looking at my Dads I just ground on a old scewdriver at a steep angle . I made it good and sharp tool. thay work great for lifting leaves and flowers up to stand out.

Russell

[gtwister09]

you can build our own pro petal. I made to after looking at my Dads I just ground on a old scewdriver at a steep angle . I made it good and sharp tool. thay work great for lifting leaves and flowers up to stand out.

Russell

A couple of hints here for making these...

(1) Make sure the heel of the tool is carried a long way out .. in other words it doesn't end abruptly as if you just ground the steep angle. This greatly reduces the marks left behind outside the edge of the petal/leaf or whatever else you are lifting. Consider at least 1/2 to 2/3 the same distance of the angled cut for the increase on the heel from the edge of the angled cut.

(2) Polish, polish, polish

(3) Those engraver handles are "handy" to show where the sole of the tool is. An additional benefit is that you can push the tool in flatter. Thereby allowing you to go farther into the material. Consider at least a little flat on your tool handle to aid in this manner.

(4) Get it heat treated....It cuts down on the amount of time resharpening and stropping it

Regards,

Ben

[tazzmann]

I made some of these of various sizes using scratch Awls from Harbor Freight. I picked 'em up for a $1 a piece. Took them to the bench grinder and then to the polishing wheel. DO make sure you make the heel a long one, it really does help in NOT leaving a mark when you lift. Polishing is a must as well as it makes it easier to slide the tool on the leather without leaving marks behind from the scratches from the grinding wheel. Sharpening them has been a no-brainer. They are already somewhat heat treated and I just keep them sharp on a strop, or if they are really bad, I use my fine grit on my sharpening stone. So far, they have worn well.