Switching Motor Pedal And Foot Lift Pedal On Cb 4500.

[billymac814]

When I got my Cowboy I had it in the lowest position and sat on a low stool, I found that using the foot lift was a little difficult to do and took a bit longer than just using the hand control lever. I decided to get a high stool and raise it up, this gives me better leverage to use the foot pedal however I found that I'm "right footed" and if I keep my left foot on the gas and right on the lift that I can't control it quite as good and I don't want to use my right for both. This got me thinking it would be better to just switch them for me, so I switched them. The angle of the chain dragged a little more than I liked where it comes through the table so I grabbed a luggage wheel I had(from Ohio travel bag) and ground a groove in it, made a bracket to mount it and used one of the existing bolts to bolt in on. Now it pulls straight down and rolls quite nicely, a little smoother than the way it was since it was at a slight angle before. I left the pedals where they were so now my motor pedal is the small one, if I decide I like it this way I may switch them but I'm going to try it like this for a while and see how it goes. I can't say for sure yet that I like the new configuration but so far so good. I think even if I decide to change it back I'm going to let my roller in place so it still pulls straight down.

I'm not sure if anyone else has the interest to do this but ill post a few pictures of my chain guide. It consists of a luggage wheel, a long tubular rivet as an axle and a piece of 3/4" steel.

Edited January 28, 2013 by billymac814

[Bob A]

I'd be interested in seeing some more pictures of your set-up. Thanks for sharing.

[billymac814]

Bob,

Here's a picture showing how the chains cross and another showing the backside of my roller. I may switch the pedals around at some point so the big one is the motor control. It was made with stuff I had laying around, I'm sure there's a bunch of other ways the same thing could be done. I also could have bent the metal a little better but I didn't have a good way of bending it and it should be cut a little shorter but I wasn't too concerned. Maybe some day Ill pull it off and paint it and make it a little more finished (yea right).

I hope that helps.

[billymac814]

I have use it a bit since doing this and I do like it, I'm really surprised at how smooth the foot lifter works compared to how it did. It was always at a slight angle which caused the chain to drag across the hole in the table not a big deal but I'd prefer smooth often dragging, I often thought of replacing the chain with a steel cable thinking it might be smoother but the roller really works so it may be an option for those who don't want to switch the pedals around too.

You can also make out in the picture how I have my thread snippers tethered to the machine. I use retractable key chains and have one at each machine, otherwise they walk away. This particular one is worn out so it doesn't really retract anymore so its hanging down.

Edited January 28, 2013 by billymac814

[Wizcrafts]

I like that roller setup for the lifter chain. I may try to build something like it for my 4500.

[drcharlemagne]

Why does everyone use chains for these things? wouldn't stainless cable with loops crimped on the end work nicer? stuff can be had at any hardware store

[billymac814]

Probably because they come with chains. As I said I thought about getting steel cable, however I own a repair shop so I have luggage wheels laying around and not steel cable, I'm sure it would have worked better than the chain alone but with the pedal switched the angle is pretty sharp and still probably need a roller.

Why does everyone use chains for these things? wouldn't stainless cable with loops crimped on the end work nicer? stuff can be had at any hardware store

Wiz,

If you send me your address Ill send you one, I had enough steel to make another and since the wheels are sold in pairs its unlikely I'd ever use one.

I like that roller setup for the lifter chain. I may try to build something like it for my 4500.

[Trox]

Hi Billymac,

I had to do the same thing to my 441 clone, not because I wanted to switch side but moving the pedals further apart. The pedals was to close to each other, I was occasionally hitting the motor pedal when I was using the foot lift. Having a Efka needle position motor a small hit on the pedal starts a full revolution of the machine (a extra stitch).

I used a brass roller in a similar way because the chain got a bad angle, the foot pedal is still pretty hard to press down.

Now I am building a air foot-lift system on it. The foot lift will now be on full heel back of the motor pedal. ( I am using the inbuilt Efka switch for it) Two steps on heel back, first is needle up and full is presser foot up. I thought about a knee switch, however they are pretty expensive. If I do not like the heel-back option I can buy one later. I will post about it when I am done building it up.

Tor

[billymac814]

Definitely post pics of the set up once you're done, I'm sure an air lift would be pretty nice. I really thought I would prefer the foot lift over the knee lifts that my other machines have but the knee lift for me is a little more convenient as I can do everything with my right leg.

I do remember seeing the post of your current setup, I remembered it as I was making mine.

Thanks.

Hi Billymac,

I had to do the same thing to my 441 clone, not because I wanted to switch side but moving the pedals further apart. The pedals was to close to each other, I was occasionally hitting the motor pedal when I was using the foot lift. Having a Efka needle position motor a small hit on the pedal starts a full revolution of the machine (a extra stitch).

I used a brass roller in a similar way because the chain got a bad angle, the foot pedal is still pretty hard to press down.

Now I am building a air foot-lift system on it. The foot lift will now be on full heel back of the motor pedal. ( I am using the inbuilt Efka switch for it) Two steps on heel back, first is needle up and full is presser foot up. I thought about a knee switch, however they are pretty expensive. If I do not like the heel-back option I can buy one later. I will post about it when I am done building it up.

Tor

[BondoBobCustomSaddles]

Very Interesting! I was just thinking that I didn't care for the drag on the lift pedal myself, and vwa-la, there is the answer!! Gues I know what I am doing this afternoon.

Thanks Billy!

Bob

[pcox]

I just set up a new CB4500 on an existing stand and we had a similar problem. I made a solid rod out of some 5/32 TIG welding rod to run from the head down thru the table then hooked the chain to that. On the end of the foot pedal loosen the 2 screws and slide the chain bracket to the right as far as possible. This will reduce the angle and drag considerably. If you want to switch to the left pedal you will still need the pulley or an eye-bolt as a guide for the rod.

[Bob A]

Bob,

Here's a picture showing how the chains cross and another showing the backside of my roller. I may switch the pedals around at some point so the big one is the motor control. It was made with stuff I had laying around, I'm sure there's a bunch of other ways the same thing could be done. I also could have bent the metal a little better but I didn't have a good way of bending it and it should be cut a little shorter but I wasn't too concerned. Maybe some day Ill pull it off and paint it and make it a little more finished (yea right).

I hope that helps.

Thanks. I think I'm going to try switch mine also. Seems like it would work better for me as the current set up just doesn't feel right.

[billymac814]

Im glad other people found this helpful. I've been using it most of the day, any drag is gone, I'm still relearning the pedals a bit but once I retrain myself I think I'm going to like it better for sure. I should probably switch the small and big pedals as soon as possible so I don't have to get used to that once I'm already familiar with the way it is although I'm not sure there's any great advantage to the big pedal being the motor control.

The welding rod is an interesting idea too although it wouldn't have worked in my case and I don't have any welding rods laying around although I probably could have used some auto soler wire that I have. Before switching the pedals I thought about loosening the two screws and sliding that bracket over but I didn't think it would help much since the pedals are farther forward than the hole so it still would have dragged(drug??) a bit. I did at one point coat the chain in beeswax but it didn't help much.