Wc Carving Leather Question

[phogadelphia]

Hi Everyone -

So I worked for this company using Horween veg-tanned leather (HF, Essex, Dublin) + I wanted to start exploring leather working on my own time.

I purchased a side of Tooling/Carving Leather from WC, since I've read that this type of leather is used a lot for belts/handles and that's what I'm looking to make.

When I got the leather, I was surprised by how rigid it is. When you knock on it, it sounds like you're knocking on cardboard. And since I'm new to carving leather, I wanted to ask if this is what its supposed to be like when you get it straight from the tannery?

[Cyberthrasher]

I've never used W&C (I'm a Hermann Oak guy), but what weight did you get? It's more likely to get those results on the heavier weights, but I still wouldn't call it acceptable unless I purchased something that was labeled "economy" or "craftsman". If it's something like that, then you're usually told that it's not the top grade and should expect situations like this. But, like I said, the heavier leathers are quite rigid and make that sound anyway ( 7 oz and up). Is it easy to cut with a sharp knife? Does it sound crispy at all while you're cutting? How's it retain water?

I recently got a "Craftsman" side myself and basically got a really dry side that's HARD to cut and doesn't maintain moisture that well for tooling. Had I purchased something other then the "hit and miss" grade I would have shipped it back for something else, but since I new it was a chance, I've just designated that side for emergencies and pieces that require little-to-no tooling.

[phogadelphia]

It's 8-10oz and the best grade...

[JustKate]

You didn't mention which grade you ordered, but the "special" grade from WC - their lowest grade of tooling leather - is pretty stiff and almost brittle in some cases, not to mention full of anomalies you have to cut around. I've had a few of them, and putting it plainly, they're just not that great.

The higher grades ("utility" and "standard") have a firm hand but are smoother and more pliable than the special, and once you moisten them (at least the ones I've gotten), they become very workable, tool very crisply with a nice burnish, the best I've used for wet-molding, and I've gotten good enough yields from them to make them more economical than lower grades with lower yields.

I also tried some Hermann Oak recently (in the last year), and it's different, but also very nice. So glad to still have two good tanneries in the US.

Edit: Okay, now you did mention the grade. How was it after you moistened it?

Edited February 2, 2013 by JustKate

[Cyberthrasher]

With 8/10 oz, it's going to be rigid and have a good knock to it. Get a sharp knife and try to cut a piece off of it. If it's hard to cut when you know your knife is sharp, that's a good sign something is up. Once you get that piece off, put some light water on it with a sponge. Does it suck it up right away (within a minute or so), or do you have to wait for it to gradually even out and return to color? To me, if the leather sucks up water that quick, it's a sign that it's pretty dried out like the cheap one I mentioned earlier.