Thread The Pot On Your Patcher?

[cdthayer]

Even though I haven’t ever used thread that needs lubed or waxed on my Singer 29K70 machine, I still thread each time through the pot under the bail. I even replaced the pad in the pot, but it’s never been used.

There have been several times when threading that I’ve thought about going over the top of the pot bail, but I can’t bring myself to do it. I guess that I’m just glad that I HAVE a pot and am thankful. I’ve heard of those that don’t.

Just out of curiosity, for those of you who do have a pot on your patcher, what do you do about threading under the pot bail when you have a dry pot, and do you think it makes any difference?

CD in Oklahoma

[billymac814]

I thread mine but don't lube it. I don't think it would save you an incredible amount of time by not threading it. I had one machine without it and I always felt that it helped keep the thread in the correct path but it worked fine without it too.

As of late I've been just tying my new thread to the old thread and pulling it through. It saves maybe a little bit of time but not much as I can thread it pretty quick, I often have to change colors many times each day.

[cdthayer]

I thread mine.....I've been just tying my new thread to the old thread and pulling it through...I often have to change colors many times each day.

I’m in the same boat with changing thread colors. I don’t use mine every day, but nearly every job needs a different thread color. I tried cutting and tying, but decided it was a waste of thread even when I cut close to the thread take-up lever.

I use V92 Tex90 UV thread in the 4 ounce cones mostly. I set the cone in a boot top with a plastic butter bowl in the bottom of it that’s tied to the front of the pillar with a leather shoe string through one thumb loop and around the pillar. I used to use an old Planters Peanut can setting on the stand in the same place, but I couldn’t attach it easily and knocked it off a time or two while reaching for the handwheel. I have the handwheel on the end. I thread up around the spool pin, through the pot under the bail, and beyond to the first thread guide pin. Seems to work just fine.

CD in Oklahoma

[billymac814]

I'm having a hard time picturing what it how your thread is sitting. Here's a picture of mine, I have a 6 spool thread stand plus the one on the machine, the rest are small spools that I don't use as often so they get rotated onto the one on the machine. With the thread stand I would cut off the excess anyway so I'm not really worried about thread waste as its not that expensive and would take longer to try to roll it back up. I have heard of one particular shoe repair guy on another forum I belong to that saves the thread he pulls through for hand stitching jobs. I'm not doing that either, ill snip it and trash it. I did use to roll it back up when I just had the single thread stand on the machine but my stand saves me more time than a few feet of thread cost me so its no big deal.

[cdthayer]

I don’t use a thread stand at all for my patcher, and I use only a single cone surface-mount stand on my Consew. I have some 2, 3,& 4 spool stands stored here and there if I ever need them, but aren’t using them for the time being. These machines are stored against a wall in a retail area, so the multi stands would be in the way. That’s why I use a boot top to keep my thread corralled on my patcher. I like the small 4oz cones since most of my work is repair and I need as many different colors as I can find. I don’t use a lot of thread, but I use a lot of different colors of thread.

I roll the patcher out to do a job and then roll it back in line against a wall when not in use. I built a wooden “trolley” under it, with rigid casters under the needle end, and swivel casters under the handwheel end. I had an arm light mounted on it for a while, but eventually took it off. It was in the way too, and I roll the machine to a work area that has other lights mounted on tables, so I just redirect one of them depending on where I set up.

The Consew is on casters too. For small jobs, I just use it setting against the wall. For larger items, I roll it away from the wall as needed, and for the largest items, I roll it or the patcher outside onto the sidewalk in front of the shop and surround them with folding tables. The Singer 20U33 is not on casters and is used primarily for sewing new jean hems right where it sets.

CD in Oklahoma

[billymac814]

I see what you mean by a boot top now. I use a lot of the 4oz and 1oz spools too because this machine only gets used for repairs as well. The one oz ones are good for the not so often used colors, the 16oz spools that I have are shared between this machine and my Consew. I have another Singer patcher just like yours that's in another corner, I keep it loaded with black thread that way if someone comes in needing something done quick (and its black) I'm able to do it right away if need be. I prefer using the Adler though for whatever reason. I don't have any type of thread stand on the Singer.

[cdthayer]

I see what you mean by a boot top now. ...the 16oz spools that I have are shared between this machine and my Consew. I have another Singer patcher just like yours .... I don't have any type of thread stand on the Singer.

I share my 4 ounce spools between my Consew and my patcher. I was using my patcher yesterday to sew reinforcement material for grommets onto a re-purposed tarp. I’m in the process of making three 2’x10’ fitted covers out of old 15’x’50’ billboard fabric for the seed boxes on a Sunflower drill. I happened to look down into the bottom of the boot top, and there was my Planter’s Peanut can! I’d wondered what I had done with it.

I need to rig up a thread cone holder for my other 29K70 that I keep at home, so I may use the can until I can get another boot top made. It’s not on casters and I don’t use it much, so it hasn’t been a problem. I wanted to use the boot at the shop for a while to see how it worked before making a second one. It seems to be working just fine. Lashing the boot top to the pillar has kept me from having to chase a thread cone across the shop since I started using it. I’ve been saving my old Justin Roper boots for years, wondering if I would ever get the equipment and skill to re-sole them. So far, it still looks like it ain’t going to happen, but I’ve got a lot of boot tops. I made my belt-mounted cellphone case out of the mate to my thread cone boot, so I’ll have to break-up another pair for a second thread holder.

BTW- Boot tops make good little fence staple bags, now that we don’t see canvas water bags much anymore. I made one back in the 70s and used it a lot when I was still maintaining fences. I still have it.

CD in Oklahoma

Edited February 13, 2013 by cdthayer

[billymac814]

Just out of curiosity how come you don't use the thread stand that's on the machine? If you're using 4 oz spools they will fit with a little modification. I have a wooden dowel that's thick enough to fill up the inside of a 4 oz spool with a hole drilled in it to slide over the pin from the spool stand and under it I have an enlarged piece of soling material cut to about the size of the bottom of the spool. This is what I used before I got the powered stand and thread stand. And it slides right off if I need to use a 1oz spool. The one pound spools won't fit on it though. I'm sure your boot top works fine but that way may be quicker to do thread changes and there won't be as much thread out if you wind it back up.

You should be able to resole your boots with a few hand tools, it would take a lot longer but that hardly matters if they are your own and not doing it for money. You might have to pick up a boot jack but they are readily available for cheap. It may be easier to go with a half or 3/4 sole so you don't have to mess with the heel base. If you ever need to buy just a pair of heels or soles let me know.

[cdthayer]

.... a wooden dowel that's thick enough to fill up the inside of a 4 oz spool with a hole drilled in it to slide over the pin from the spool stand and under it I have an enlarged piece of soling material cut to about the size of the bottom of the spool.....

Did you have your dowel set up so the cone would turn to pay the thread off of the side instead of off of the top?

Most of my boots only need half soles. The heels are still in good shape. I’ve got a boot last/jack that I use in the shop sometimes to install rivets, grommets, or snaps when I need to get inside of something for backup.

CD in Oklahoma

[billymac814]

Yes, the spool spins to let the thread off. I forgot that there's a piece of felt in between the machine and the piece of soling material to remove the friction so the whole thing spins with the spool.

You should have enough stuff to do a half sole then. You'll just have to have a way to do your splice, you should be able to do that with a knife to make your skive on the boot or a belt sander should do it.