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cdthayer

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Everything posted by cdthayer

  1. Use a boot top with a butter bowl stuffed in it and lashed to the pillar. Feed the thread up around the existing spool pin. Turn the boot top inside out to keep the pull straps from catching the thread. CD in Oklahoma
  2. Try to get into contact with someone in the Quilting Community (as in, "quilting ladies"). The Singer 78-3 makes an excellent machine for "stitch in the ditch" quilting fabric and batting sandwiches together (Tex30 thread) without ending up with puckers. CD in Oklahoma
  3. Nice machine Lee. I think you’ll like it if you haven’t tried a 16 before. Get it onto a treadle as soon as you can. I’m still working my 16-41 on a treadle with 16x63-18 needles and Tex90 thread. It’s a workhorse. I’m not too interested in the wood part of a machine, so have no advice there. All I’ve ever done is put a light coat of sewing machine oil on the butcher block tops to help with the dryness of the wood, and then used them as they came to me. CD in Oklahoma
  4. Hello??? Test, one, two, three.... Is anyone out there? CD in Oklahoma
  5. Nice looking machine Ferg. I wish you good luck with your sale. Speaking of Singer 29-4 machines, would you please move my listing of my Singer 29-4 in the “Used” forum (“FS - 1915 Singer 29-4 & Treadle Stand”) (https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/86404-fs-1915-singer-29-4-treadle-stand/ ) into the “Old/Sold” forum as I requested back on August 19th? I’ve heard that the old Singer 29-4 machines aren’t very much good anymore. It seems like I heard that here on this forum. I guess they just aren’t as good as the new machines. Thanks. CD in Oklahoma
  6. "Posted 21 hours ago I watched them cd ( "research" to see what you were talking about* when you mentioned his "release the tension"..But definitely did not endorse them..nor did I "discredit JLSleather" You weren't making a referral there when you mentioned Harry, were you ? :)" Mike, leave off the smiley faces when you talk to me, and no, I was definitely NOT MAKING A REFERRAL. You must not have watched enough of Harry's videos. People can pull videos out of their patute to make money with Ya-patute, and Ya-patute doesn’t care as long as the views are there. You’re really saying that you don’t see anything wrong with Harry’s videos? Really? Your quote: Advertise: verb (used with object), ad•ver•tised, ad•ver•tis•ing. to announce or praise (a product, service, etc.) in some public medium of communication in order to induce people to buy or use it. So...If the advertisement is false, or the video that they’re selling is false, you’re still good with it? CD in Oklahoma
  7. What???? Oh Mike, say it isn't so!!!! You're endorsing Harry and his "release the tension during the sewing cycle" to get discredit JLSleather??? Really???? Are you feeling poorly today? Maybe you should take a while off and go watch some videos. Tisk, tisk, tisk CD in Oklahoma
  8. That's my kind of machine. A great winter project. Lots of diesel and lots of Sewing Machine Oil. It could probably sew again and be a good machine if limbered back up. "Boat anchor"? Pffft. CD in Oklahoma
  9. You have a Consew 225 with Singer gold and black gothic script? You sure it's not a Singer? Or is it a re-paint? (My Consew 225 is gray, with no Singer on it.) CD in Oklahoma
  10. I haven’t ever figured out what the sub-model number on my older 20U is either. I think I may have it narrowed down to either a 20U11 or a 20U13, but that’s only a guess. It has the horizontal spool pin on top and came to me with only the zigzag foot and needle plate. It was operated electric in a K-leg power stand with a white Singer top and gray base, and powered by a 110VAC Alphasew clutch motor that I put a 1.5” pulley on (round leather belting) and am using it to power a 1936 Singer 95-40 dedicated to denim jeans hemming and some zipper work on woven fabrics. I converted the 20U to treadle operation by setting it in an early Singer Industrial Convertible Stand (both small clutch motor power and 16” flywheel. The pitman rod is 2-piece with a coupling nut to switch between electric and flywheel.), an old butcher block top, and swapping a spoked balance wheel onto it from a Singer 66-4, then connecting the pulleys with round leather belting. CD in Oklahoma
  11. My 1990s Singer 20U33 has the knee lift function to change the bight on the fly (two little flappers underneath the base and you set your knee lift to activate one or the other), but my older 1960s Singer 20U treadle machine doesn't have that feature. It only has the one flapper to raise the presser foot. CD in Oklahoma
  12. Moderators - Please retire this listing to the “Old Sold” thread. It is no longer available. I doubt that I can ever get $450 for it. I’m thinking seriously about turning it into a yard ornament. I think I can maybe even mount a bird feeder on it without much trouble. CD in Oklahoma
  13. Moderators - Please retire this listing to the “Old Sold” thread. It is no longer available. It doesn’t release the tension discs during a stitch like Harry says it should, so I think I’ll just part it out. CD in Oklahoma
  14. Thanks Glenn. I appreciate you trying to help. Allen was out-of-pocket, but Joe at Weaver hit the parts books and he didn’t find any listing for the eyelet in the take-up lever as a separate part. It must be included with the take-up lever or not at all. That leaves me on my own. I’ve already went with “plan B”, to remove the eyelet, and I still have thread trashing problems, so my problem must not have been with the take-up lever eyelet. Wish I had known that before I trashed the eyelet. I’m surprised that there aren’t any Adler 205-370 owners that had time to click a photo for me of their machine. Oh well, like I said, I’m on my own. And I’m out of here. CD in Oklahoma
  15. It's some of that "Fake News" that you hear about all of the time. Harry and Youtube will leave that fake news video up from now on, steering folks wrong... CD in Oklahoma
  16. I don't know Bert. Could be. CD in Oklahoma
  17. Thanks Wiz, It makes sense to have a user-replaceable eyelet system on this machine for when repeated thread use wears a groove in the eyelet. User-replacement would probably eliminate a flaring tool to install a new eyelet, so I’m suspecting a two-piece press-together replacement. I just don’t have a good clear photo of that side of the eye to see if I’m now missing half of it. This may be a good question to fire at Allen over at Weaver Sewing, but with all of the Adler 205-370 owners on this forum, maybe someone will chime in. The back side of the take-up lever can be seen and photographed full-travel through a slot without removing the end cover. I just can’t seem to find a close-up photograph of it anywhere. CD in Oklahoma PS- Can you remove the duplicate image in my previous post? It won't let me kick it out.
  18. I got the 4 new springs installed in the race. That was kind of an adventure, but no blood-letting. I still have my thread-shredding problem, and I’m honing in on the take-up lever as the possible problem now. I finally took the end cover off to see what was going on in there, and my thread (Tex350 Poly) was being shredded coming into the take-up lever. The grommet in the lever eye has a nice large flange on the exit side, but the entrance side is small, not flared, and sort of sharp. I’m wondering if it originally was a two-piece press-together grommet, and half of it fell apart during a thread change? I’m just thinking out loud now. That could explain why it sewed fine and then suddenly wouldn’t. The machine will make a couple of stitches, and then bind up and miss the subsequent stitches. If the thread is being held at the take-up lever, there wouldn’t be any loop for the hook to pick up. This is a late 1990s machine. Can anyone give me some advice on this, or maybe post a photo of the back side (away from the operator) of your take-up lever eye? CD in Oklahoma
  19. That sounds like a 15x1 (or 130/705) needle. I've never tried one in my 96-40. CD in Oklahoma
  20. I equate a re-paint and installation of new decals on an old sewing machine to years past (1970s?) of guys putting chrome valve covers on an old car. “Flippers” have been doing that to cars for years. It doesn’t usually make it work any better (even when adding the chrome oil filler pipe vented cover cap didn’t seem to make the car perform any better. It still smoked and burned oil), but flippers seemed to think that it made the car more valuable. When I see a repaint sewing machine, I think, “Oh, oh, what’s wrong with this machine?” Keep the old decals that show a history of the machine. It’s been through some hard times and survived. Let it tell its story. CD in Oklahoma
  21. @Glenn, your compliment on Weaver Leather Supply for Adler parts is well founded. I haven’t ever contacted Allen personally, but the company has some great folks working there. I got my springs fast, fast just by ordering on their website! My new springs are ready for installation when the ambient temperature goes down a little here in Oklahoma (we’re in a “Flash Drought”, and I have no cooling in my sweat shop of a sewing room). FWIW - I hadn’t ever heard of the term “Flash Drought” before, but looking it up, it seems that if the conditions turn extremely hot with no rain after a period of very wet conditions, the ground conditions can be dried out extremely fast, and qualifies as a “Flash Drought” (sort of like a “Flash Flood” that comes with too much rain in a short period of time). I’m not complaining about the weather. It gets hot in Oklahoma during the summer. We’ve had triple digits for several days with little end in sight. At my age, I’ll take the heat over the cold. On another note: one time previous, a few months ago, I chatted with a young lady about parts for my Adler 205-370, and while she didn’t know the answer to one of my questions, she told me so, and was right back on the chat with the solution that the other folks at Weaver gave her. They do bust their hump to help us out here in the wild. It’s not cheap to be an Adler owner that needs to buy parts, and getting past the cost may be difficult for some, but Weaver makes it as painless as they can by giving good service. CD in Oklahoma
  22. I have a 1936 Singer 96-40. What kind of repairs does your machine need? CD in Oklahoma FYI - The parts manual for it is at http://parts.singerco.com/IPpartCharts/96-3_10_12_16.pdf
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