ke6cvh

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About ke6cvh

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    Member

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  • Location
    abroad but American
  • Interests
    making anything, 4x4's, guns, bows, electronics, sewing

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  • Interested in learning about
    sewing leather especially making sandals. I am retired active duty US Navy
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?
    dogpile.com

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  1. Thanks again Wiz, Really big help. Best regards, Mike
  2. Hi Wiz, OK got it adjusted but there is something strange going on. Sometimes when the outer presser feet toes are adjusted downwards then tightened up then they do not move and then other times they did. So I just fiddled with it until it works ok then adjusted the 5mm allen to balance the toes and inner vibrating foot. Not sure what was going on but problem solved. Now, I'm going to wait for the under feed dog with teeth. The canvas will be my main material (besides denim) until I source a local supply of leather overseas here. Trying not to waste material so testing on available scrap and can sew down to a single layer of denim with size 207 and well formed stitches after adjustment. Pretty amazing for such a heavy duty machine. After that I adjusted the spi from 4 up to around 7 or 8 stitches per inch. I might try some braided poly later but will need to rig up a sideways feed as the braided can't come off the top of the cone like twisted can. More use and testing on the machine. Thanks for the help. Best regards, Mike
  3. Thanks Wiz, That is an easy one to adjust the presser foot bar but I did not want to do it without QA'ing with someone else first. Is that UWE the only liftable roller guide available for the cb4500? It looks like a Chinese industrial lifter with an adapter that has been made for it but that is just a guess....or maybe they are making one right out of the box? I have a lifter roller foot I bought for a different machine and not installed but might give it a try. The one supplied is really good for leather but not working with canvas necessarily. Now I need to source leather here over seas. Best regards, Mike
  4. Hello group, I finally got the Cowboy CB-4500 and setting it up over the last couple days. Went to change the harness feet to the blanket feet. Realized there may be a serrated feed dog and sure enough called one on order. Realized there is a drop down guide and even though I got a guide I'd like to be able to install the drop down guide for work with canvas so working on that. My big problem with the machine right now (actually no problem with the machine but problem with the operator...me) is that the outer toes on the blanket feet go nowhere near making contact with the material. Saw a video by solar leather where I can take a 5mm allen wrench and adjust the balance of lift between outer toe and inner vibrating presser foot. However, I don't want to loosen anything unless it is the right one. Which piece/part will I need to loosen to allow me to drop down the outer toes on the blanket feet? This is a really nice machine. I'd like to first try sewing some canvas packs so want to get that blanket presser feet working. Advanced thanks and best regards, Mike
  5. Hello group, I'm hoping to get my cb4500 on line that Bob sold me in less than 2 weeks. We had to get three crates shipped overseas and I have received 2 with the 3rd on the way so very excited with my fingers crossed from a gent who has been helping me with shipping. The head is here, most of the table, just need the motor, hand wheel and some odds and ends parts. We have a good 112w-139 compound feed also purchased from Bob and a circa 1915 45k1 bought locally. I was offered an 1800's patcher and love vintage machines but am likely going to pass as I need something I can rely on especially if I want to go up to size 138 thread and the longer 18 inch arm with the heavier bobbin. Read a post about a long arm Adler and how exceptional this machine was on a motor up to 138 used for small production runs. Ran across a company on a famous auction website called Axis. They make a long and short arm and I'm not sure about the different bobbin sizes yet. Does anyone have experience with the Cowboy long arm large bobbin or the Axis machines? Best regards, Mike Kendall
  6. Hello group, Currently my heaviest machines are a circa 1913 Singer 45k1, a hand crank Frobana (honestly haven't used it yet but own one), Singer 112w-139 (thanks Bob at Toledo), and I'm currently waiting for a CB-4500 Bob sold me some time back with all the bells and whistles. We have lots of lesser machines for medium weight work. I'm an American living overseas so have to be exceptionally patient and inventive on how to get stuff here. Was studying the Pfaff 545 and that looks to be an amazing machine. Found this video linked below on youtube where a sharp gent figured out how to make a synchronized binder. He has a feed dog with a hole in it then uses a long piece of 1/8 inch maple to accomplish the rest from a pivot point on the far end of the maple. Is it possible to DIY a right angle synchronized binder for the CB-4500 or is that an already available option (I'm thinking not)? Best regards, Mike
  7. ke6cvh

    Singer 16-188 questions

    Hi Bob, I'm not sure how I missed your comment on the 135x17 or maybe I forgot it and read it long ago. Will both the needle bar need to be adjusted as well as the timing? That is really good and appreciated advice. Thanks! Best regards, Mike
  8. ke6cvh

    Machine sewing braided thread

    Hello group, I have been purchasing braided poly off ebay made in USA in size 415 and 277 (for the bobbin). The bobbin never has a problem. The top thread, 415, would wind up terrible so I contacted the maker. I already posted this information in a different thread not knowing that this thread was specifically about braided thread (lots of puns sorry). The solution was obvious but I needed confirmation. The cone was not designed to feed off the top. Instead one needs to make a horizontal rod and allow the spool to spin on the rod as it feeds off (similar to how the bobbin feeds the thread). Braided thread is stronger than regular. This stuff being made in USA and bonded/waxed and white/brown/tan/black colors. So now I'm waiting for some braided fishing line to arrive (although I truly love the braided poly and the mfg from USA I have long lead times getting it here overseas). So I bought some braided fishing UHMWPE line. The stuff rated at 80lbs is 0.5mm so perfect for a size 23 needle which is max for my Singer 112w-139 and the size 42 is slightly smaller than ticket 30 so perfect for the bobbin and seriously strong stuff. UHMWPE is super UV resistant and has abrasion far beyond the best Nylon plus the extra strength. So, I read people say that if the thread is too strong it will rip the material before the thread breaks. I believe in this 80lb smaller size than 207 (approximately) top and the slightly less than ticket 30 42lb (in the bobbin ) is ideal for a machine like the 112w-139 or Consew 206rb etc. And I get free shipping on it. We use commercial device that fits onto the spool pin and uses silicone lube on the thread. With the fishing line I'd use the silicone lube pot and feed it sideways off the horizontal spool like the braided poly (size 415 is rated at 95lbs ! ). We are setting up to weave on a hand loom next week (12 shaft homebrew countermarch) and I've even considered trying to make a rip stop on steroids with braided thread in the rip stop portion. It'll be interesting for a project. Best regards, Mike
  9. Hello group, This is a really old thread but I want to add some information. I have used a US made braided polyester thread that is size 415 and size 277 (bobbin). I contacted the manufacturer over a technical question as I discovered an issue with it. They said they are making it in USA proudly and as long as sources for the fiber don't dry up they will source the fiber in USA. If forced they will only source overseas and still braid in USA if supply is no longer available. I put it on my thread stand and it twisted hence the reason why I contacted. With the braided stuff it is stronger than regular equivalent sized thread and is not sensitive to right/left twist requirements. However when feeding off a regular thread stand from the top it will twist up. The answer is to feed off side and let the entire spool turn as it unwinds to feed the machine. They have tan/brown/black/white waxed/bonded. Same seller below is selling gun holsters so must be using them successfully with their biz and it is obviously listed for leather work. However, something I want to try is an 8 braid (that makes it a round braid coming off a maypole braider) UHMWPE fishing line. I just ordered some rated at 80lbs and color dark grey with 0.5mm. Using Bob's chart that puts it on a size 23 needle which is capable of many of the machines that would be used for wallet leather etc. that max out at size 23 and the size 207 is 0.508mm so this will be ideal. The 42lb stuff is barely smaller in diameter than ticket 30 so would be a good candidate for the bobbin in a machine like a Singer 112w-139 compound feed sewing wallet type leather. These types of lines are much stronger than polyester or nylon and UV resistant unlike nylon with much greater abrasion resistance than even the best of nylon but the Achilles heel is very high heat temperatures. If I wanted max bang out of smaller threads on my Singer 112w-139 I believe this 8 braid fishing PE (UHMWPE) line is the way to go. Here is the link for the USA made stuff but I will try the 8 braid 80lb PE fishing line and am fairly certain it will be amazingly strong. I might try to figure out a better smaller size for bobbin as well. Best regards, MIke https://www.ebay.com/itm/Braided-Poly-Thread-Tan-Size-346-Waxed-1-4-lb-for-leather-upholstery-and-more/192776703116?hash=item2ce2630c8c:g:J24AAOSw~FJZMIK2:rk:1:pf:1 https://www.ebay.com/itm/Goture-500M-Braided-Fishing-Line-8-STRANDS-Super-Strong-Saltwater-Fishing-Line/202066283470?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=502064358039&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
  10. I contacted the owner of this thread and asked them if it is made to be side fed and the response was that it feeds better that way as they put it on the spool that way. Also he said they have made holsters to allow the thread to feed off sideways. That explains my twisting problem. Too easy to make an adaptor to allow this so I think I'll do that soon enough. Best regards, Mike
  11. Hello group, I have been using a braided polyester thread from J&S called "New Millennium". We are using a size 415 in the needle and size 277 in the bobbin. This stuff is made in USA and the material to make the thread is sourced in USA. A little expensive but the braided thread is supposed to not have the twisting issues as well as being stronger (the 415 is rated at 95lbs breaking). It has a unique and decorative look to it. Although a little more I find it well worth it and proud to use a thread made in USA with quality and good performance. They have both bonded and waxed as well as white, black, brown and lighter brown. Has anyone had any issues using the braided thread? I have found that I do need to straighten it out every once in a while so I'm not completely sold on the non twisting but I'm not an expert. Even though the 415 is supposed to take a size 28 needle I've found it to work quite well in a size 27. They claim braided goes through the needle better as well. Just my 2 cents if I was to go regular twisted I'd surely buy the cowboy brand from Bob at Toledo Industrial. Maybe he'll start stocking a braided as well. Best regards, Mike
  12. ke6cvh

    Tiger Thread Vs Lin Cable Vs ?

    Hello group, I just received some size 415 braided that is available in either waxed or bonded sold by J&S thread supply but I got it from a pack goat web site. From J&S it is $38.95 a pound. It is either brown/black/white/tan. I got the black and it is shiny and really sews well in a size 27 need 214x1 on a 45k1 and looks incredible. I also got size 277 but it is not as noticeably flat as the 415. I will get tan next. This stuff is USA made I'm sold on it !!!! I'm considering in investing in a compound feed machine even though I'm only doing heavy waxed canvas with the thread now I like the idea of a machine that can do it all. I'm considering a double needle shuttle hook but I think it is allot more expensive. Is that un-necessary with a drop down roller foot like on the Cowboy cb-4500 for a clean double row of stitches on a pocket? My concern is the roller guide not working right on pocket attachment and a double needle that could also work single as more appropriate....sorry to shift from the thread top to also machines after adding the thread info. Back to Amman that braided thread confuses me as the J&S is available from 207 in all the steps up to 415. This Amman site is nothing short of confusing on their smallest size which I think is about 415 (and it is round not flat) Best regards, Mike
  13. Hello group, We are using a recently overhauled circa 1915 Singer 45k1 allot lately and love the machine for heavy type work with webbing, canvas, and denim. I took the low road and got a locally available 750w brushless servo as the price was just over 100 dollars in this country. It is nice enough but I've seen problems with this brand of motor wanting to chug along at the lowest speed when letting off the pedal and not stopping ever. It was a case of supply and demand...low cost and easily available. Lots of messing around got it to work properly again (motor stopping after letting off pedal) and I noted the problem went away when I messed with the needle up/down button. My assumption is that the circuit board/micro controller circuitry is confused thinking it needs a sensor input so it is hunting and waiting for the sensor to tell it to stop. This was partially confirmed by shorting two pins on sensor input connector resetting the board. So I spent under 20 US dollars (850 Philippine pesos) and got a sensor and hooked it up. Well the motor no longer gets confused with the up/down sensor button. However the heavier weight of the flywheel allows it to freewheel past the up or down position hahaha. Inertia of heavy hand wheels and needle position sensors just don't seem to be made for one another. I thought this motor had a brake on it like the ones that Bob Kovar sells but it seems to not be the case. Anyone have similar humorous but not so good experience with motor position sensors? Maker of motor is CHM and of course China mfg. for motor. Best regards, Mike
  14. Hello group, We are using a recently overhauled circa 1915 Singer 45k1 allot lately and love the machine for heavy type work with webbing, canvas, and denim. I took the low road and got a locally available 750w brushless servo as the price was just over 100 dollars in this country. It is nice enough but I've seen problems with this band of motor wanting to chug along at the lowest speed. Lots of messing around got it to work properly again and I noted the problem went away when I messed with the needle up/down button. My assumption is that the circuit board/microcontroller circuitry is confused thinking it needs a sensor input so it is hunting and waiting for the sensor to tell it to stop. This was partially confirmed by shorting two pins on same connector as the sensor resetting it. So I spent under 20 US dollars (850 pesos) and got a sensor and hooked it up. Well the motor no longer gets confused with the up/down sensor button. However the heavier weight of the flywheel allows it to freewheel past the up or down position hahaha. Inertia and needle position sensors just don't seem to be made for one another. I thought this motor had a brake on it like the ones that Bob Kovar sells but it seems to not be the case. Anyone have similar humorous but not so good experience with motor position sensors? Best regards, Mike
  15. ke6cvh

    Singer 16-188 questions

    Hello group, I am the proud owner of both a 16-188 from 1954 and a 16-88 that is over 100 years old. We lovingly restored the 16-88 with cold cure japanning. That machine is awesome for upholstery type work. We sew multiple layers of material such as canvas and denim but also clear vinyl when we made some of our machine covers. The 16-188 gets a little neglected because of space issues and it just aint as beautiful as the older machine that runs smooth as can be. I looked for larger needles on eBay and the largest I could find for this machine was a size 22. They may have made a larger one (if so please let me know as I'm looking for size 24 and might as well go for 23) but since I cannot find larger than 22 maybe it isn't made anymore. I believe it would be great for other light work but need a size 24 needle etc... Mentioning this on this post as a potential limitation of the machine. Our 45k1 from 1915 on the other hand is not a walking foot but can definitely handle the heavier thread and needles with anything a harness machine might need to sew. Best regards, MIke