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ke6cvh

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About ke6cvh

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  • Location
    abroad but American
  • Interests
    making anything, 4x4's, guns, bows, electronics, sewing

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  • Interested in learning about
    sewing leather especially making sandals. I am retired active duty US Navy
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  1. Looks like I'll have a 269w here soon enough. I know for older Reece 101 and 104 it is not uncommon to have a machine that had done in excess of 1 million keyholes. We have three here working like a champ and all made in USA (104's AMF Reece). My tech was working on his last job with a 101 that was exceptionally old and seen very heavy use it's entire life (several decades of use on a production line). They were making 2k pairs a week and that was only while he was the steward of the machine in it's long operational life. He was able to keep that machine going and going and going enough to make the energizer bunny look like a snail. The 269w may be not quite in the same league but they are available here with proper maintenance manual, my mechanic has experience on them. This machine is equivalent 360 dollars. Seller is putting a fresh paint job on it and now common here is to send some parts off for re chroming which they are doing with some parts on this machine. Price includes table and motor. Delivery is equivalent 40 USD. The plan is to get maybe 3 or 4 of them going in the two production lines with the real gem, lk1900bhs, sitting proud and happy in the studio under good security and limited access to those only who are supposed to be there. Soon enough I'll run air lines from our main compressor to branch out to the two production line locations which each will have their own tank. From that I'll have LP air into the production line for easy cleaning. Also....I will DIY an air assist for the pedal. Found someone on youtube that is taking the gas assist cylinders for hatchbacks, drilling them out, and converting them to an air assist (for a different application than machines). For the air valve he is hacking a hand operated cleaner for LP air. I might not do this first but it's in the plan to do to reduce operator fatigue in case I double up or increase the spring clamping pressure. Most don't have the luxury of having a master mechanic around to train and assist in maintenance and if I didn't I'd be tightening my belt to buy another lk1900 then not sleeping as well concerned over theft. I've met enough that are good at maintaining them to feel confident in the purchases. If I'm lucky and digest the training I'll also be able to be, I hope, one of the few who can brave the 27 page "essential alignment guide" exactly step by step to keep em tuned up and running. Look like for most woven cotton denim work here it was 42 stitch machines with 28 for lighter synthetic materials. They use a smaller needle as well on this. Best regards, Mike
  2. Hello group, I'm in the process of buying a used Feifeng ff335 that is a clone of a Pfaff 335 and looks pretty darned close to the Cowboy 7335. It has the binding attachment hardware on it that follow the needle feed. I'm overseas but American here in Philippines. Seller bought it for 40k php (about 800 USD), used it for a couple projects tried to sell it for 25k php and lowered it to 20k php roughly 400 USD. It has a table that is a standard looking commercial table with a cutout and a servo motor without any reduction (I want to change that). I'm jumping on it as we have the heavy hitter cb-4500 and various M bobbin single and double needle compound feed machines (as well as vintage Singer compound and walking feet) but nothing like this which can do binding and work well with the medium to medium-heavy on a cylinder to boot. We do have some 18u322's but again nowhere near the capabilities here with this 335 clone. I know this won't be quite as nice as a Cowboy as they are gone through in country carefully but this is a very lightly used machine that does work and has zero wear on it from appearances. So I saw a thread that discussed the different hook sizes on the Pfaff 335 and it appears the newer are all larger hooks and I'm assuming the Cowboy 7335 is also? I'm guessing I'll just need to find a source of the bobbins and buy them in hopes my assumption it is the larger of two sizes. I'm seeing the bobbin cases on Amazon of all places in sets of 5. Specs on mfg. website state large hook, 135x17 needle/dp17 (nice I like that as we have other machines with this needle obviously) but doesn't have the lift of the foot so I'm looking for input on that related to the Cowboy 7335. It talks about beveled gears being encased in grease. This reminds me of the beveled gear in our domestic 201k23 where some one removes the cover and cleans out old grease replacing it with new. Looks to be manually oiled....again I like that allot. Does this machine have a safety clutch of any kind like the old Singer 111w and 211w machines ? Any feedback on the Cowboy 7335 would be very much appreciated as I'm assuming it is very similar in many respects. I've been looking for a lighter duty cylinder arm with triple feed and the moving binder is an amazing bonus/find. I'm also not yet able to find a youtube video showing the use of the binder just the general machine. It can't be that complicated but a video would be nice. Best regards, Mike
  3. OK some background on the 269w. First I wanted to get a 69-8 for vintage reason(s) below. I have a mechanic that can work on the 269w's but it has been many years since he touched one. I'm fairly certain I can get parts for simple things on the 269w. We have a new LK-1900BHS but it is in our studio adjoining the house and all I have to do is look at the CCTV as well as out the window to see it there. We have a dog on other side and double roll up/heavy iron lockable doors. Our production line is a different story. The one down below is screened for great ventilation (and easy theft). I'd rather take a chance on a 269w and can get them for around 300USD in working condition which is around 1/10th the price of a new 1900bhs. Also, we have quite a bit of vintage machines (one of the reasons the 69 class such as 69-8 was my first choice). The 69w is unobtanium here. 1850s are everywhere here and I won't touch them because I've been told by the mechanic what a headache they are. Alignment of the 269w is the real problem and requires a wizard level skill set that can follow the 27 page essential alignment guide without a single deviation to exact steps. I don't have such an alignment guide for the 1850. This will just be for pants, not rigging, and likely anything special will be done in the studio on the 1900bhs where it sits safe and secure. The 69 class looks to me much slower but I'm just guessing much easier to maintain as long as parts can be had but that is just a guess. Same mechanic can align a Reece 101 and 104 keyhole with blindfolds on practically....it is nothing short of amazing to see the magic he works when in action. I'm willing to go with a 42 stitch with smaller thread and needle but also 28 would work. Best regards, Mike
  4. HI Group, Understand old thread and old machine :-) The old machine part I like along with it's old school performance :-) We now have a 16-88, 16-188, 16u-288 (this one was amazingly new old stock in a warehouse of an old Singer dealer overseas that is liquidating and there is one more I'll eventually buy some day). BTW I got the new old stock 16u-288 for equivalent in $360 dollars. It even came with the mfg. plastic bag of accessories (bobbins extra Singer needles etc.) Posting again to ask this question. Has anyone ever tried a drop down roller guide on these? I have one installed on one of our 112w's and the sewer was amazed by it. I'm starting to think I need to get a complete set of different feet as I have seen auctions where upholstery shop had them likely an estate sale and the sewer had the full set of feet. My guess is the full set of feet will make a huge difference and if I can figure out a drop down roller foot all the better. Not sure how well a plain edge guide would work but yet another possibility. Everyone here wants to keep gravitating to the Juki DLN-5410 single needle feed. We also have a large herd of Juki 415's. There is stuff that these single needle feed will just plain not sew well and recently one broke my needle plate (new) and bent a needle but no damage to the hook trying to make the 5410 "sew" beyond it's abilities with canvas (was pushing the material). Really good sewer but not a good solution obviously. I demonstrated to him the 16-188 sewed it just fine but I suspect he wants and doesn't realize he needs some extra tools in the 88 class walking feet machines we have here. With practice there is no reason why he can't sew a perfectly straight line on the 88's. So if anyone in this group has the 88, 188, 288 "u" what would be there first priority beyond the stock feet without any guide ? Since we are soon to have a 4th of these likely (the second 288 "U") I want to set them up so people will gravitate towards them instead of away for sewing canvas and upholstery type work. Best regards, Mike
  5. Hi NylonRigging, Many thanks for the reply. I have multiple sources I can get a 269w from in country. I was just told the cam is solid fiber? I also saw a different forum where the person posted and talked about replacing with a Camatron fiber cam. This is the giant one that is vertical on the side for a model 69 and horizontal under the bed for a 269. Actually, this surprised me. If true doe these wear out? I'm really shocked if it has a solid fiber cam and if so what is the "mileage" on one of these before too worn. Best regards, Mike
  6. Hello group, I got a reply directly back from an email info request I sent out yesterday so am sharing what I found. The 469u was only made for a short time and not common in USA. The 269 series was made for a long time with parts available both generic and original it seems. The "un official" Singer adjustment manual that is 27 pages long is the real ticket to owning and maintaining the machine it seems and must be followed exactly (I've now heard this from two sources). The kind gent who took the time responding has told me he has converted several machines to air lift negating the issue with fatigue when used for long periods of time. So, I'm sold.....it'll be 269's with our single and exceptionally expensive lk1900bhs that can do programmable tacking. It will be worthwhile to learn the adjustments of the 269 since I'm not high volume and cannot justify the new purchase of a second lk1900. Best regards, Mike
  7. Hi Constabulary, Sorry for the late reply. No...my plan is to hoard them and use them for our sewing biz here. Can't go wrong with a needle feed Juki is my take on it if used within it's intended range of uses. We have already built 22 tables and will be building more. We have 18 pieces of Singer 212u that I got from the same source and needed extensive rebuild. Tables are using commercially available tops out of China with the formica that has the ruler printed on it. Base is 1.5mm thick plus galvanized square tubing full weld with stainless electrode and what they call "checker plate" 1.5 mm stainless sheet metal. It is basically a stamped sheet metal that looks like diamond plate but can be bought for around 120 dollars for a 4ft x 8ft piece. We make our own foot pedals out of same checker plate (stamped diamond plate) with solid stainless small round bar and flat bar for the other portions. Epoxy primer and epoxy top coat (creme color) and it looks incredible. We got delivery of the first 9 of the 212u's and they are working on the other half which also includes a single 312u (more heavy duty I was told). The thing on these 415's is the wicking was all dried up. To replace my friend made a long drill bit by welding an existing to a piece of rod. Video looked like a dentist doing a root canal but it worked really well as can be seen with the dried out chunks of solid wicking coming out. Replaced all the hooks on the 415's as well. Due to higher cost he put regular high speed Juki hooks in. I've not tried it under heavy production yet but the gent who did the install and adjustment reports zero issues (and lots of money saved). Best regards, Mike
  8. We have a 112w-140 and 139. I tried to convert the needle bar from a generic kit off that famous auction site and shipped from China and the kit did not fit on the 139. We were able to put dbx1 in the machine with existing/stock needle bar and adjust the needlebar height. If I remember correctly 135x17 was our first "want" but the shank was too big (although I may be getting mixed up with our 140 but don't think so....I do know we ended up using dbx1 in one of the machines because the smaller shank diameter. dbx1 is available in a large assortment of tips including leather points from a quick google search. Best regards, Mike
  9. Hello Leatherworker group, I had a typo in the comment meant to say others saying 42spi shredding the belt loops. Again, my experience with some of the synthetics is a stitch count that high will perforate the material until it rips too easily but 100 percent cotton woven can handle it. I spoke again to the mechanic here. He worked for Wrangler and two other big brand jeans factories. He said that they were using a high stitch count but would put ticket 50 in the needle and ticket 120 (really small stuff) in the bobbin and that is how they would be able to do it. Some of theirs was 60spi with the smaller threads on denim belt loops. One of the reasons the 1850 has issues with thick material he said is that the foot pressure is not as high and wears out. I see new parts for the 1850 on that famous auction site and that assembly with the presser is one of them now available generic common. The 269w's have a much higher presser he said and manual (like a car with manual steering or brakes). If used it would be at a work station where someone is standing to pass the pants around and they always put a man on it and even then at the end of the day by 5pm always complaining because of the added physical activity. This is very high volume work obviously for hours or full day shift. So with all that said is the 469u really that good or does anyone know? I know the 269w will have exceptional high quality steel in it's parts but cannot speak for the durability of the 469u and if it has the same attributes as the 269w or not. I was told that the 469u and the 1850 are much different machines. I'm leaning towards the 469u but part of me wants to get the 269w's it is just a big unknown I'm hoping someone can clarify on. Oh, forgot to mention he has experience with the 1850's as well and said I'd have a headache if I bought one heavily used. This is the same thing I heard regarding the 1850's from the other mechanic (who was his mentor and passed on a couple years ago but he gave me a little bit of training). Best regards, Mike
  10. Hello group, I responded to an old thread and then today realized I might be better starting a new thread. I've got the option to buy Singer 269w, Singer 469u, or Juki 1850 machines all around 300 dollars purchase price. We already have a Juki lk1900bhs purchased new with low hours on it. I'm working up to multiple production lines and also have many vintage machines. For vintage the older Singer 69-8 is very appealing but not so easy to get. I've heard various stories about some of these machines. I've heard that the Juki 1850 when it gets worn is not good anymore for heavy material tacking. I've heard that parts are available for the 269w generic and possibly also the 469u. I'm planning on buying two of these older machines and like the idea of two so I can compare them when working on them. A wizard sent me the "un official" Singer manual for adjustment that is 27 pages long and I downloaded/printed the official manual which is longer. I was told to follow the 27 page manual and can't go wrong adjusting the 269w. So is it true that the 269w will still sew heavy when worn and the 1850 no longer can do this? Not sure the differences in the 469u but I have to wonder if the steel is as good of quality. 1850's are going very low cost in the industrial area for sale where we live nearby to. 269w's are common but much older. I was told in the early days of the denim wars the 469u was famous. One mechanic told me here nobody is really using the 269w anymore for volume. He is 45 years old working his adult life and hasn't touched a 269w since he was 18 saying around that time frame everyone went to Juki. I'll need to make a decision in the next few days and would really appreciate feedback. We have complete and working machinery for 3 production lines with exception of the single bartack we have. I cannot justify yet without being very successful getting another lk1900bhs even though they are such great machines. We are making mostly focused on work pants from denim and/or canvas but other canvas items are appealing as well for future products. I did see comments about 42 stitch bartacks shredding belt loops. I'm thinking that is synthetic materials and not denim as I was told 42 is pretty common. However, I've also heard 28. Best regards, Mike Edited to add a comment from an engineer friend who made the statement the biggest problem would be in excess clearance on the needle bar bushing when in the down position causing more skipped stitches. Also, the 469 for sale is a 42 stitch. One person with experience immediately said 42 stitches. But back to the comment in another thread of 28 stitches shredding belt loops. There is a file that exists circa 1990's of all equipment in a jeans production line. This illustration is obviously pro-Singer as 100 percent of the equipment is Singer models. On the bar tack there is a dual head Machine Singer 569U3141-28H double-head mount for the corners of the pockets obviously 28h means 28 stitches heavy duty variant. For the belt loops they have Singer 269U2149-28 also 28 stitches. Not sure why they would go up to 42 stitches unless the later 469u machines that are available to me are able to sew with more precision and get away with 42 stitches. I know with my Merrow break apart seam machines I need to use a cam of around 22 spi approximately or it shreds the material when synthetic. However with denim I can use a sharps needle at much higher counts with good success.
  11. Hello, This is an old topic but I have bar tacker questions. Maybe I should start a new thread but am trying to decide between vintage bar tackers. We have been building and setting up for a jeans business for years now but we also have heavy hitters like our Cowboy cb4500. We only have 1 bartack machine which is a Juki LK1900BHS. I have purchased equipment enough for 3 production lines with one exception and that is the bartack machines. I've decided to go vintage and not new and get more bartack machines. A gentleman (who has passed away) warned me the Juki 1850's have a hard time sewing thick materials when they begin to get worn (if I remember his conversation correctly from 3 years ago). Another mechanic tells me the old Singers (269w) have no problems with thick stuff even when worn. I've been told parts are around for the 269w but when I look on that popular auction site I only see shuttle drivers, bobbin cases, and bobbins. Another gent has told me the 1850's are going cheap so I did a parts search and see allot of parts for this machine but am worried about wear and sewing multiple layers of denim or canvas (the other material we work with at 15oz material). I've heard about a german made 469 (I thought they were all "U's") and don't know differences between 369/469/269 but there may also be a 469 available. The one gent talks about an old black 69 in one shop that likely is for sale. The 69 is cool for bespoke denim shop pictures with blogs/vlogs but would only see the lightest use so it would sit with our other very vintage Singers and Union Specials mostly. Then there old Brother tackers available. I'm messaging because I'm lost in all the details for this. I'd like to buy a 269w but I'm just not sure if this is the right choice and I'm misunderstanding the used Brother and 1850's. We have a master mechanic here who has worked with 269w's when he was 18yr old (he is 45 now) and said soon after everyone went to Juki. Basically, I'd like to get a 2nd and a 3rd machine for the other production line capability but don't have the money to buy another new until profit justifies/allows this and need to focus available resources into expansion. Maybe I'm really off the mark and mistakenly believing the 269w is a "horse" work machine and should buy an 1850 or old Brother if they are easily available. Spare parts are a main concern as well. many thanks and best regards, Mike Kendall
  12. Hello group, Been a while since posting but I bought a clone of a Mitsubishi LU-4420 that takes the M bobbins compound feed etc (it is a clone after all). Now I have an opportunity to get the real deal for approximately the equivalent of 700 USD plus change with table and motor (I don't know what kind of motor and if it is the 4ft table like my clone has or if it is the 3 1/2 foot standard industrial table but that is not important as I can make a 4 foot table bed if desired). I'm thinking to buy the real McCoy used in good shape if I can convert to 1/8 inch guage. The current one which is not even yet set up is at 1/4 inch. Likely I would use the 1/8 more than the 1/4. When I see videos of the machine the presser feet and feed dog are quite wide but again that machine in the video had a larger gauge so the assumption is surely the gauge set will come with the right needle(s) plate, feed dog, and presser foot. So now to the question.....is there even a 1/8 inch gauge set for this series machine? If not I don't need another as I need 1/4 and 1/8. I guess I could convert the 112w-139 but really not excited to convert that machine to other than 1/4 inch. On an off topic to this subject I can't help but to mention I'm getting a new old stock (albeit very old stock) 16u-288 which will be quite proud to sit next to it's daddy the 16-188 we have and the grand pappy the 16-88 we have :-) I really like those machines but class 15 bobbin of course and only walking foot/underfeed not unison feed. Best regards, Mike
  13. Hello group, My contact found a dealer that is selling fabricated needle bar frame for 5410 and 415 for 40 dollars. Others cost 100 and same essentially. The 5410 and 415 are both alloy whereas the newer NBF on the Juki 9010 is a better design with bushings but not interchangeable. Since we will be getting many of these 415's on line he will get NBF's fabricated with bushings similar to the 9010 design but to fit the 415's. These machines were used for light duty but will work just fine on canvas and denim with change out on feed dog/presser foot/needle plate to heavy duty version. Best regards, Mike
  14. Hello group, OK I am learning on the 415. It is similar to the 5410 but the 415 had issues with too much oil splashing on the needle bar. The "fix" on the 5410 was a rubber gasket that kept it from excessively splashing on the needle bar. Something like this may be fabricated locally. Later versions did away with this system completely as the oil pump required high RPM. It seems the needle bar frame is the same from initial inquiries. At this point I made the post to share the information discovered in case someone does a search for the DLN-415. DLN-415 is supposed to be a very rugged machine like the first generation 555 Juki machines. We will pursue acquiring these machines. Best regards, Mike
  15. Hello group, My friend is telling me the needle bar frame is one of the more difficult units to wear out. He said the following "The needle bar frame of Juki double needle and dln series for single needle feed are the same..5410 is also" . Maybe the case is these parts are the same but Juki gave them a different part numbrer? If I invest in 20 of these machines for production and potentially others at even lower cost (of the 40 machines) for parts source it is paramount to verify the interchangeability of these parts for upkeep. Best regards, Mike
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