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About williaty

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  • Location
    Licking County, Ohio
  • Interests
    Photography, Leatherworking, Modern Board Gaming

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    I need to learn the basics
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  1. I keep seeing many industrial machines list "Workspace: Standard Workspace" in their specs. Googling turns up nothing useful about what this means. Anyone know?
  2. Are you talking about the 3112-00 cutter? I have one. It's terrible. The idea is fantastic but in practice it doesn't work with a damn.
  3. Thanks guys. Sometime this weekend I'm going to get my wife to film me doing this to make sure I'm interpreting your directions correctly.
  4. As told in a different thread, I just bought a Consew 225 (clone of Singer 111w155) and I'm trying to get it running again. I got the jam problem resolved, got the lower end cleaned out, and got the timing back together. Now I need to test sew with it only to find the bobbin arrangement doesn't match the manual. The manuals all show a bobbin carrier like the one in my 227R-2 where the bobbin thread tension spring is part of the bobbin basket/hook assembly and a long finger comes through the center of the bobbin and folds over to lock it in place. However, this machine has no integrated tension spring in the bobbin basket/hook assembly and also has what appears to be a separate bobbin carrier like a domestic machine. The center finger is also very short but does flip from vertical to horizontal like the manuals show. How do I thread this?
  5. Yep, I'm sure it's a Consew. All the parts are stamped SEIKO not Simanco. Doesn't look like it's been repainted given the amount of missing paint.
  6. OK, so after a little more playing and a look at one of Uwe's videos, I think the click I heard was the safety clutch resetting. The hook has a ton of the monofiliment line the previous owner used wound up under it and something was binding against the needle plate. Removing the needle plate allows the whole machine to turn freely. So now I need to learn how to get the hook out to clean under it. Also, the hook assembly and shaft have a lot of vertical play. At some points in the rotation, you can lift the hook and shaft up about 3/8" of an inch. Is that normal?
  7. I just got home from picking up a new-to-me Consew 225 off Craigslist. I have no idea if it matters, but this is an ancient one; still in Singer gold and black with gothic script. The machine ran beautifully in testing at its previous home. Loading the head into the van, I tipped it down to lay it on its side and the balance wheel (which I was holding) rotated a few degrees backwards and there was a loud, firm click. The machine is now locked up. What did I do and how do I undo it? Thanks as always.
  8. OK, I have to amend my statements a little bit after looking at the machine more closely. I couldn't find any take-apart guides but I did find some ebay pictures of replacement tension units that showed all sides. From that, I could see how it was supposed to release the tension and then compared that to what my machine actually does. 1) The foot pedal lift of the presser foot does eventually release the tension discs but you have to raise the foot right to the limit of travel. I've been lifting the foot just enough to clear the work and that's not enough to activate the tension release. 2) The lever for the presser foot lift has 2 places it'll stop. If you lift up on the lever, you fight spring tension a bit and then suddenly the lever gets over the hump and the resistance goes away and the lever will stay up. In this position, the little pin that's supposed to push on the tension unit to release it hasn't moved at all. However, if you keep moving the lever up past this point, you'll get spring tension again, another feeling of getting over the hump, and the lever will settle into a much higher position. In this position, the lever will hit the tension release pin and the discs will open. I had no idea there was a second detent position on the presser foot lift lever. Basically, as soon as the little pin that comes out of the machine begins to move, the discs fall apart exactly like they should. It just appears that getting the pin that passes through the machine to actually start moving requires a LOT of presser foot travel.
  9. Needle tension can't be reduced any more or the nut falls off the tension unit. If I loosen the screw on the bobbin case, the stitch gets unbalanced and pulls the bobbin thread clear to the top. Has to be locked tight on bobbin tension, about to fall apart loose on top tension, and then I get a correct stitch. Sounds like it's time to learn to take one of these tension units apart. Does anyone have a guide/tutorial/adjustment instructions for it?
  10. OK, to try to catch up on everything that's been said/replied/etc. 1) My only experience with domestics is the old Singers and they do bump the same pin that the presser foot lift does in order to release tension. That's why I assumed all domestics acted that way since so many of them are clones or clone descendants of the 15 and 66 designs. 2) No, the tension discs on the 227R-2 do not move away from each other at all when I lift the presser foot via the lever or the foot lift (I have a pedal, not a knee paddle) 3) FWIW, I've never been convinced this machine is exactly right. The only way I've been able to get it to make a balanced stitch is with the bobbin case tension maxed out and the upper tension so loose the nut just about falls off.
  11. On a domestic sewing machine, the mechanism releases the upper tension at one point in the stitch and also releases the upper tension when you lock the presser foot up. My Consew 227R-2 doesn't do either of these things. It's full tension all the time. Is this a normal difference between a typical domestic sewing machine and a larger industrial, or does this indicate a problem with my 227R-2?
  12. This came up on one of my craigslist searches and I have no idea what on earth a machine of this size would do to leather. Does anyone know what it does and have an example of the kind of work it can do? https://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/tls/d/new-kensington-leather-sewing-machine/6909043461.html
  13. I am aware you've said you've tried many other adhesives, but have you tried Tandy's EcoWeld contact cement? If you use it correctly, it will tear the leather before it'll come apart at the glue line. The issue is that I see almost no leatherworkers using it correctly. It's MUCH more picky about being actually dry before you stick the two pieces together than Barge is. Almost everyone I work around coats both pieces, gives it about 30 seconds, slaps the pieces together, and then complains about the lack of holding power. I coat both sides, pay attention to something else "for a minute", totally forget that I just coating some work, and come back 20 minutes later cussing up a storm to find completely dry pieces that stick like a SOB. Also, thanks for the tip on the bilge fans! I do wet plate collodion photography, which uses a lot of ether, alcohol, and nitrocellulose, so I need a better basement venting fan. You saved me a fortune!
  14. They're showing it thinning the whole width of a strap. If you get yours to take just the edge down on a panel, I'd love to hear your results once you get a chance to work with it.
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