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About catskin

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  • Leatherwork Specialty
    light harness
  • Interested in learning about
    anything leather
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?
    google search for sewing machines

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  1. It is similar to a 20-2 but is not a 20-2 likely some 20 sub class I own a good working 20-2 so know a fair bit about them. The 20-2 does not have the gear inside the flywheel nor does it have that kind of foot setup or the coil spring on the front.
  2. It also looks near exactly like the one on my Adler 20-2 even the base.
  3. My suggestion would be to take leather as many ply as you will need to sew. Then add at least one more and test the machine. The reason for more is to be quite sure you will not be using it at the limit of what it can do. Even try to see how much more it can do if pushing the limit. For example if it will handle 2 more ply then you think you will be sewing that's good. I do not know these machines, what I advise would apply to any machine.
  4. I know this is a really old thread but this is still on topic for mice. If you could attract a few weasels or turn loose a ferret or 2 mice would be gone shortly and stay gone.
  5. From reading on here a lot it seems that there are more then one company that is copying the juki 441. And some seem to have better quality control than others. And that the poor ones get sold as like Cowboy, Cobra etc. on internet E-bay type of places.
  6. The picture does not SHOW what you are describing. It shows flat pieces laid overlapping.
  7. From your picture it looks like simply putting one on top of the other and sew.
  8. If Cowboy machines now are like that I am glad I bought mine several years ago. There are apparently lots of companies copying the JUKI and some do better than others. That is why I wondered if this was maybe a shipped from china machine that was not from the same place Cowboy comes from. But claimed to be equal. For example those parts in the pictures don't look stainless steel as mine are.
  9. When and where did you get this machine? Hardly any parts look like my Cowboy 4500 the parts on yours are all rough where mine are smooth and shiny I have never had to make any adjustments to any parts that came with my machine. Tension discs thread guides bobbin case all look cheap made compared to mine. Or is this just a copy made by somebody else that is supposed to be like a Cowboy.
  10. With the rosin you may not need to sand paper the pulley. Just rib it on the belt. What I do is hold the rosin in my hand or warm it up a bit and run the belt through my hand. Its best to crush it a bit to a powder. It can be bought at most tack shops cheap. I bought about 1/2 lbs. for a couple dollars a few years ago.
  11. Another option I have used on belts that are older and a bit stiff is to make a hole with an awl and use thread and a needle to connect the ends going round and round through the ends that leaves a more flexible joint than the wire clip and on older belt it is less likely to break out at the hole. I did this 30 years ago and its still going. It broke out at the clip in 2 days. The rosin works too, rodeo riders use it all the time on gloves and bull ropes.
  12. Maybe NOT 5 but 25 or 50!!!!! Cost recovery.
  13. The package that the seller put them in says 180, with a micrometer they measure the same as 180 for my Adler. Will have to look on them to see if they have 180 or the old number.
  14. Some body made the parts to build that machine. So while it might not be cost effective to hire someone to make them there is no reason they could not be made by a person that likes to machine. And where for example a hole is worn bigger in the casting ( frame ) make the part over size that goes in. I realize this might sound unreasonable to some it would be possible.
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