Double Loop Knife Sheath

[Josh Ashman]

Thanks Don, that's really nice of you to say. I am probably not the best guy to ask for pricing, especially on knife sheaths. I struggle to find what seems like a happy balance on them myself. My price for a plain simple fixed blade sheath is $35, tooling, spots, conchos etc. add to that. I sold the sheath above for $60 which was probably too cheap, $80 might have been a little closer. As far as time I probably have between 3 and 4 hours in it. Doing the math $80 might be too cheap .

Best regards,

Josh

[Frank]

Another good one Josh

[renegadelizard]

yeah, i think you are underselling yourself...that is a quality piece...until recently, i was letting holsters go for cheap, mostly just to cover cost..then i decided i was going to try to get paid for my time as well, and wouldnt you know, not a single customer balked at the price..well, one, but he kind of wanted to dictate to me how to build it, basically wanted me to copy a galco OWB design and make it IWB with a metal clip, but fully lined, so i told him if the price and he said he would just go buy the galco...i wished him well with a sigh of relief...sometimes the money isnt worth it...

[buzzkiller]

Josh, That looks amazing. I don't know much of anything about making sheaths but I have bought a few and I have seen much lesser work for $100 in my area. I have one question that will probably show just how little I know about sheath making. I'm pretty sure I know what Kevin meant when he mentioned it being the back and wrestling the sheath body through. My question is, what secures the body of the sheath itself from sliding up or down behind the loops. I apologize if this ends up being a silly question. I also apologize that I cant seem to figure out how to make a new paragraph in this text box anymore as the enter button doesn't seem to do anything. Anyway... Thanks, Dan

[Josh Ashman]

Hey Dan,

There's nothing silly about that question at all. Friction keeps the sheath above in place, the loops are very tight and I dampen the "skirt" piece before putting it together and sort of mold it in place. By the time it dries there is no movement at all. It's a little hit and miss and I do worry that they'll work out OK when I make holsters or sheaths this way, especially if I haven't done one for a while. My rough rule of thumb is that the slots are 1/8" longer than the main body when I make the pattern. The 1/8 is measured with everything laying flat. Another thing I sometimes do, especially on "half breed" holsters is to tie a lace through the main body and skirt with a bleed knot (like a saddle string). I noticed Bobby (Treed) did that and it has worked well for me.

Good luck,

Josh