Serpentine Border Stamp (For Rory...and Anyone Else)

[Frank]

I'll try and explain this to the best of my ability.

Lay out your first border. Make sure you cut deep with a swivel knife as this border needs to set deep in a cut, not a groove, so do not use a groover for this. From your first border cut, then scribe your inside line and cut that as well. Make sure you test on scrap as far as the distance to get the spacing you prefer. I always start on the inside corners and work my way to the middle. This way you can alter the tool distance to make sure you come out even on the intial spacing. I then go all of the way around the inside border and finish it up. Always slightly over lap the tool initially until you find the last few spacings that you need. Then alter to fit.

Next I start on the outside border line. Start the first impression on the outside border between the first and second impression on the inside border. Line the lip of the tool up even with the border cut. You can tip the tool to see if you are in the middle of the "Wave". Once you see that you are in the middle and the lip is still flush with the groove, then go ahead and make your first impression. Go all the way around the project and stop in between the first and second impression of the corners.

When finished, then go back to the outside corners and add one more impression to bring the corner out. Keep in mind the distance in between the other impressions. This is just an eyeball type thing. Once I am finished, then I add a stop or some other tool to the corners to add a little "pop" to them. Hopefully the pictures can show what I am talking about better then me trying to type it. Feel free to chime in if you have anything to add.

[silverback]

Thank you for the tute Frank.I only just purchased this stamp and have been having a little trouble with it and I noticed the same thing with your stamping. Where the base of the stamp meets I am getting the little double impression if you understand what I mean. I was thinking if the ends were slightly rounded off would it cure this. Does this bother any body else or is there another way to do it .

[Frank]

Once you oil and then add the finish coat, those areas darken and are hardly visible. The other thing you can do is pull a smooth beveler over it carefully by hand and it will smooth those out but the difference is really nill as far as I'm concerned.

Frank

[silverback]

Ok,Thanks mate.

[Dwight]

Thanks, Frank, . . . I have a project that just "may" need that exact tutorial.

May God bless,

Dwight

[David8386]

Good tutorial, thanks for posting it Frank.

David

[bruce johnson]

Thanks Frank, very well done and clear!

[Frank]

Glad I could help out.

[c2369zulu]

Frank.

I just found the thread. Thanks a bunch for taking the time to post this!!................Rory

[camano ridge]

Frank, great tutorial. I have just one question how do yu determine the distance between the inside and outside cut?

[Frank]

Thanks guys, definitely not a problem. As far as the spacing between borders, it depends on what size tool you are using and also what you think looks good. It's a judgement thing....practice a few times on scrap.

[Bluesman]

Thanks Frank, great tutorial. I need one of these stamps. Now I guess I gotta buy one.......

[Frank]

No problem Jon....everyone needs a few of these stamps in their arsenal.

[hunter131]

thanks for the tutorial just wish i would have seen it sooner. i have a few questions. how would you go about doin corners? and it looks like you dont overlap the tool but how do you keep it all the same depth between each impression or is it from the swivel knife? i hope that makes sense

[Sporq]

Thanks for the tutorial. I assume this works pretty much the same with the meander border tool that looks kinda like the letter H as well?

[Frank]

No problem at all.

Hunter131; everything that you asked regarding corners and overlap, was written about in the tutorial with the photos.

Sporq; This does not work the same way with the "Carlos" border (H Tool) that you are referring to. Those cannot touch one another or they will form circles.

Frank

[hunter131]

well i was talking about rounded corners say like on a saddle or something that has a slight curve

[Frank]

As far as curves, you would need to overlap the stamp a little more on the outside radius in order to close the gap. If you overlap a little more, you will have an easier time making a straight edge stamp go around the curve. You'll probably have to use a wing dividers to ensure that you are keeping the same spacing as you round the curve.

Edited August 11, 2013 by Frank

[Bob Blea]

Thanks Frank, this is good info. I appreciate your posting this tutorial. Makes me want to try this tool out.

Bob

[hunter131]

ok i made a small knife case and it didnt turn out to great so i will have to try it like you said here. thanks

[Toolerlass]

Great tutorial. This was one of the first stampers i bought, i really like it.

[cuzzi007]

Hi Frank, great tutorial. Is there a code for this stamp as we struggle to get any stamps in South Africa unless we import them.

Regards

Cuzzi

[camano ridge]

Tandy has them listed as border stamps D 443, D444, D455, D447. Other makers such as Hackbarth, Barry King and so on call them Meander or Serpentine stamps. ( I am not Frank but just thought I would throw the info out any way). Hope that helps.

[Frank]

Thanks for posting that for me Camano Ridge

Frank

[cuzzi007]

Thanks Canano ridge, much appreciated.