Is It The Leather Or The Stamp?

[electrathon]

Here is what I see could be causing trouble: Your bench is too thin of plywood, solid core doors work great. You are using a piece of cinder block as a stone, very soft and low density compared to granite. You have rubber under the cinder block absorbing some of the impact. You are using a rubber mallet, no where near big enough or dense enough.

At a minimun, turn the hammer over and use the plastic end.

Aaron

[penguineer]

I'd go with the other suggestions here - things need to be more "solid" all round.

Another small thing that may help is to move your tooling surface over a table leg(without the rubber underneath) - this means that the leather is between the stamp and a solid mass that runs directly to the floor. Also helps with punching, and it eliminates some of the bounce on the rest of the bench that makes things rattle.

Cheers!

[stef73433]

Thanks guys. The stamps on the end of stamp handle were done on the concrete floor. I've been meaning to get granite just haven't.I just started leather work this past October, so trying to slowly get set up.maybe the stamp is ok,I just thought it should be deeper.maybe I'm just off base in what I thought it should be.I'm literally learning everything of this site and the Web, so winging it.I will invest in a maul next tooling buy.thanks for the ideas.

[dirtclod]

When i was in the shop stamping a couple of projects i tried my 16 ounce maul right after i used my 22 ounce maul on the same piece. I was able to get a impression but no where near as deep or as good as the bigger one.

[tnawrot2]

I have a 4 lb rawhide maul and a 7 lb urethane maul, the secret is to either stamp on a concrete floor, or if you use your workbench, stamp over a leg that goes to the floor.

[bizbeblu]

As noted by others, you are loosing a great deal of your stamping force due to the type of maul, the force absorption of the bench, and perhaps most important the concrete paver as a stamping surface. I understand that you are just starting out, but folks use polished granite slabs for a reason: it deflects (that is resists) a blow better than most other materials. Even stamping on a concrete floor won't help much because concrete is quite elastic. (That's one reason it is used in making highways.) I'd suggest you make purchasing a granite stone your highest priority and then a good maul. If you are careful you can use a 16 oz carpenter's hammer in the interim.

Robert

[stef73433]

I'm looking for granite today actually! Thanks

[electrathon]

I'm looking for granite today actually! Thanks

Most granite fab shops will give you sink drops for free. They are waste to them and have to pay to get rid of it.

[Harag]

Most of the mentions here mention 16 or 20oz mauls, I have a 16oz rubber hammer and a cheap wooden hammer (not sure on weight but very light). I find that using the 16 oz for tooling even though it's good and a lot quieter than the wooden one, my arm aches after about 5 minutes and I have to keep putting it down. Yes I must be a weakling or something. but it just seems too heavy for me. Don't you all have this problem?

[Cyberthrasher]

Don't you all have this problem?

Nope. It's all in how you hold it. Tooling leather isn't about force, it's finesse. The weight of the maul/mallet should be all you need without swinging it. I use an 18oz maul for my regular tooling and just cup the head of it in my palm, rocking it up and down with my wrist - no arm motion whatsoever. If I'm using a mallet, I still hold it up close to the head and use the same motion. The only time I ever give a swinging motion is when I'm using a mallet on stamps - like the alphabet stamps, in order to give it a swift even blow in one shot.