Steps Of Leatherwork And More Newb Questions

[Harag]

Usually before. Sometimes you may need a little tiny light coat after to help even out some dye, or because the dye has dried out the leather too much.

Great thanks Cyber. I've updated the steps list, would you mind checking the new steps and add any comment if they are wrong, they are (9, 17 & 19 is amended for UK)

1) Cut strap with strap cutter.

2) Punch buckle ends.

3) Case the leather (wetting). Dip strap in a tray of water with a couple drop of dish soap. Soak until bubbles slow down. Let strap dry a couple minutes before putting into bag.

4) Bag in a large ziplock bag filled with air so bag isn't touching top of leather.

*Wait overnight to absorb* (can be left wet for as long as needed... if leaving for a super long time, refrigerate).

5) Remove from bag; let dry until near natural colour. If tooling, tape back with 3M clear packing tape to prevent the leather stretching.

6) Tool leather, rewetting as needed, covering unused areas with glass or plastic wrap to keep wet. - Only rewet the flesh side of the leather so not to mess up your tooling.

7) Bevel all 4 edges (unless gluing edges together). Sand edges (only if necessary) with sandpaper #150 and then #400. This removes the sharp edges of the leather and preps it for smoothing down.

8) Crease edges with border tool. If stitching use overstitching tool. This is just a line created along the edges to give it good definition or decoration.

*Wait overnight to dry*

9) Add a LIGHT coat of PURE neatsfoot oil to flesh side of the item (IF NEEDED)

*Wait overnight to dry*

10) Dye grain side and edges with Fiebing's Pro Oil dye.

*Wait overnight to dry*

11) Buff off dye very well with cloth or sheep wool. This is to pick up any dye residue and prevent particles from floating into your seal.

12) Glue leather as needed with Barge’s contact cement/Barge’s thinner mix.

- Apply one layer on both pieces. Let absorb/dry 20 mins. Apply a second thin coat. Dry 10 mins.

- Stick pieces together. Hammer with mallet to seal well.

13) Burnish edges with Fiebing's Glycerin Bar saddle soap. This smoothes down and finishes your edges.

14) Seal grain side and edges with Fiebing's Acrylic Resolene/Water 50/50 mixture. Apply 2-3 light coats, 1-2 hours apart. If antiquing, apply 4-5 light coats. This seals in the dye and protects it from bleeding.

*Wait several hours to dry*

15) If Antiquing, apply Fiebing's Antique Paste. Wipe off high spots immediately and work quickly. Wipe off excess before drying.

*Wait overnight to dry*

16) Seal with resolene/water 50/50 mixture again LIGHTLY as not to pull up antique (airbrush preferred).

*Wait overnight to dry*

17) Add any Acrylic painting if needed, - *Wait overnight to dry*

- Seal acrylic with clear VARNISH- *Wait overnight to dry*

- Apply 50/50 Resolene coat on varnish- *Wait overnight to dry*

18) Burnish flesh side with saddle soap and canvas. Apply resolene/water mixture for a seal. This is if you want a finished (slicked down, dyed, or shiny) look on the flesh side of your piece.

19) Apply polish to the edges (bees wax with canvas cloth).

19) Apply Montana Pitch Blend leather dressing to entire strap as a final conditioner/wax coating.

- UK Alternative - Carnauba Cream / Mink Oil / Snowproof

*Wait overnight to dry*

19) Buff any extra wax residue on top.

20) Punch all holes, tongue slots, etc.

21) Apply all hardware.

22) Stitch as needed.

[Cyberthrasher]

Do it and see if it works man.

The only thing I'll say is that I only apply the oil to the flesh side if I'm worried about darkening the natural leather, or if I think I might pull up some pigment from my dye and spread it around. Other than that, it's usually best to apply it to the grain side.

Remember, this is just "A" process that works. You've just gotta experiment and find what works for you. We can make all the lists in the world and they won't matter because you'll never understand WHY things are in that order. Don't be afraid to fail - that's why they sell scrap bags

So, put down the keyboard, grab some scrap leather, and play around with different methods to see what works and what blows up in your face. That way you'll KNOW what each product does in which order.

[FFLeather]

Sleepyhouse22, I'm in Ft Worth and frequented the the giagantic tandy store off of 820 when I got started. After having basically the same experience you had there, I started going to a smaller store off of Camp Bowie. The Camp Bowie store manager was super friendly, helpful and knowledgable. She also doesn't push Tandy products. I've found the store is good for stamps/tools (their Pro Model line is what I'd recommend), decent leather if you cut your own straps, and hardware. I've since ventured off to other leather suppliers.

I haven't used the Fieblings oil dye but after reading this I think I might. I have been using the Eco dye/water stain and haven't had a big problem with it. The majority of the products I make tend to get wet and are exposed to the elements every time they're worn. The only time I've had a problem with my stain/dye rubbing off was on the very first product I made and wore myself. Since then it was a ton of trial and error, but I've found out what works for me.

I'm trying the spray arcylic tomorrow after I get off shift. I recently started painting tooled parts or letters but have had some trouble with the painted colors not bleeding or loosing some of its brightness when I apply a finish. The painting different colors is new to me so ANY help would be much appreciated... Cyberthrasher (wink wink)

Talk to y'all later!!

[St8LineGunsmith]

just to throw my .02 in here about a few things

First of all when casing leather, unless you are wet forming something there is no need to saturate the leather to the point it is soggy a spray bottle of water is substantial for casing the leather for stamping/carving, edging, slicking/burnishing.

to case for toolingDampen both sides of the leather and wait a few minutes for the water to soak in the leather and for the surface to start to appear to dry then you can begin to start tooling.

As the leather begins to completely dry you might need to spray the top and let the water soak in a few minutes then you can resume tooling after the surface begins to appear to start drying.

Note it is important to use masking tape or a packing tape on the back of the leather when toling (Some people glue card stock to the back) especially with thinner leathers because every time you strike the leather with a stamp the leather will stretch and loose form which will cause mirrored parts to become mismatched when assembling them together. taping the back side of the work piece will prevent the leather from stretching and deforming.

as far as casing for wet forming put your piece in the sink and run water over the piece until saturated begin wet forming right after casing as the leather ( there is no need for waiting overnight) starts drying you will want to periodically check the molding as the leather has a tenancy to shrink and slightly loose the form as it dries drying time may take a couple of days depending on the humidity/ climate of your area.

when beveling the edges or skiving you will get the best results when the cased leather is completely dry.

when slicking and burnishing the spray bottle is plenty enough just spray the edge to dampen then you can begin slicking/ burnishing

those are a few tips that I hope will help.

Edited August 7, 2013 by St8LineGunsmith

[potatorider35]

Just want to chime in a quick thanks to Cyber for taking the time to help out all us new folks with endless questions. This thread has helped me so much. Hope to return the favor to others someday myself.