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About FFLeather

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    Ft. Worth, Texas

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  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Fire Service Products
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  1. Would Like to sell as lot. If interested in items, or lot minus dye/stain/paint, please contact. Will send pictures upon request. $750 OBO Will ship at buyers expense. ryan.steddum@gmail.com Tools: Tandy Leather Hand Press · Line 24 Top and Bottom Die · Tubular Rivet Die Craft Tool Pro Large Swivel, 2 blades Stylus Edge Slicker Edger Assorted edgers, stamps, weaves and shaders Craft Tool Pro 7lb Maul Wood and Poly Maul Tubular rivet hand setter Assorted hole punches Al Stohlman round knife Al Stohlman Curved knife Industrial knife w/ extra blades Adjustable V Gouge Craft Tool Skiver Craft Tool 1” hole punch Wood handle strap cutter 0-4” Craft Tool 1 ½ strap end punch Craft Tool 2” strap end punch ¾” Alphabet Stamp Set 1” Alphabet Stamp Set ¾ Number Stamp Set Poly Tool Holder Assorted Paint Brushes Package of Wool Dobbers Sewing Awl w/ assorted needles Hardware: Assorted rings and D rings 4 -1” nickel roller buckle 3 -1½” nickel roller buckle 18- ¾” nickel trigger snap 8- 1” nickel trigger snap Lot- nickel Line 24 Buttons 12- 1 ½ Black roller buckles 18- 2” Black roller buckles 6- 1” Black trigger snaps Lot- Black Line 24 Snaps Lot- Copper, Nickel, Black Tubular Rivets Spool White Wax Thread Assorted wax thread Rubber Cutting board 1 ½ft x 3ft granite piece Dye/Stain/Paint: Fiebings Dye: Light, Medium, Dark Brown, Black Tandy Antique: Light, Medium, Dark, Black, Mahogany, Saddle Tan Angulus Paint: Red, orange, blue, red, white, pink, green, yellow, black. Leather: 18sqft 12oz Red Leather Medium Brown veg tan Assorted Veg Tan pieces, various thickness
  2. Collin, Do you still have the machine? If so, shoot me an email and I'd like to talk about it. ryan.steddum@gmail.com Thanks, Ryan
  3. Hey all, I know there are a ton of threads on sewing leather, and I am not a new guy when it comes to searching and posting new topics, but I'm looking for specifically firefighters, saddle makers, or anyone that works with thicker leather (8-13oz). Currently I hand sew just about anything, and it looks great, love doing it but, but a machine would be more efficient. What is good starter machine that would work well with thicker leathers, as well as thinner leathers, and something I could find used or on the almighty craigslist? I would like American made (the oversees stuff may work, I just don't know that much about them). I know a couple guys in the industry who use Cobra Class 4 machines, but that is out of my current price range. Plus, I'd like something used for a first sewing machine. Any info, direction or tips of the trade are welcome, and happy tooling! Ryan
  4. Hey all! I guess I haven't posted any work yet... So I guess I'll post my most recent project. Here is the backside of the strap. This is also before the edges where burnished and about 5 minutes after the carving/beveling so I assure you the finished product does not look remotely this rough. Sorry the angle of the picture is off but it is what it is! -Steddum
  5. You could try cutting (mixing) with a little more water. Also use very very light coats. Multiple light coats is better than one or two thick coats. Sometimes I have this problem, sometimes I don't. I don't use resolene to finish any product anymore because of that problem. Good luck!
  6. It's funny that you mentioned using an acrylic sealer Cyberthrasher... I read pages and pages of people saying how they dislike using resoline to seal a whole project, so that's why I didn't in the beginning. It's what I used only on tooling or stamps that I painted/dyed a different color before sealing the whole project. I was at work when I was reading pages and pages on sealing leather so I got a good idea of what I wanted to try. On my way home I stopped to get some Atom Wax to try as well. After hours of testing I finally figured out the right process for my products. I was reading that a lot of people did not like using the resoline because it smelled, or was tacky etc. but it has worked wonders! I also switched when I oil the product since I case and wet mold most of my stuff. I was doing it a little later than i should have so I was getting a pretty stiff piece because the oil wasn't soaking in to the leather like it should. Now, I have a finished piece that is flexible and not flimsy. I'm also using a generous amount of Atom Wax first on the flesh side, then resoline over the entire product and heat treating the wax as I apply it to the leather as my final step. The end result has great water resistance, just adds an extra 12-24 hours of drying time to the products. I'm still looking for some Nikwax, so stay tuned..
  7. VERY VERY carefully! Learned that the hard way... haha! And always pay attention to your hands when using anything with a blade on one end! I started with a box cutter and straight edge, effective but not pretty with thicker leather. Since then I've moved on to a strap cutter, multiple knives, round/head knife and scissors. Once you practice, the progression is amazing!
  8. The template I have I measured all by using a ruler and right angle. (Well my fiance did it really...I just take the credit ). And lots and lots and lots of trial and error. But, one of my buddies said that he got Boston holder, traced each side onto his leather and cut/molded it that way. His look great, but they look like a Boston holder and not your own style. If you have the means, get some discount leather from Tandy (they normally have sales on B and C grade leather) and just start measuring. I think I got 13 sq ft of 8/9oz grade C from Tandy to experiment with before using another supplier. This is not what I use when I sell to consumers, but it's a good starting point. Also take measurements of the radio you are making the holder for. That gives you some sort of direction to your beginning measurements. Hope that helps!
  9. Also has anyone used the new Fiebings Snow Proof Mink Oil Paste? I'm wondering if its comparable to using a mink oil and Snow Proof mixture...seems to me it would be.
  10. Has anyone ever tried Nikwax for weather proofing veg tanned leather? Been doing some research on a new way to "waterproof" a project before finishing it out and sending it off to customers. The way I do it now works great until I work a fire in them. Then they tend to dry out a little bit and lose their natural shape. So, what do yall think about Nikwax?
  11. Hope the picture pops up... otherwise I can't figure out how to upload a pic. How are you finishing your straps?
  12. Hey Rock, what do you use for your top holding strap? I use paracord now but I'm trying to find elastic band without ordering it online somewhere.
  13. Sleepyhouse22, I'm in Ft Worth and frequented the the giagantic tandy store off of 820 when I got started. After having basically the same experience you had there, I started going to a smaller store off of Camp Bowie. The Camp Bowie store manager was super friendly, helpful and knowledgable. She also doesn't push Tandy products. I've found the store is good for stamps/tools (their Pro Model line is what I'd recommend), decent leather if you cut your own straps, and hardware. I've since ventured off to other leather suppliers. I haven't used the Fieblings oil dye but after reading this I think I might. I have been using the Eco dye/water stain and haven't had a big problem with it. The majority of the products I make tend to get wet and are exposed to the elements every time they're worn. The only time I've had a problem with my stain/dye rubbing off was on the very first product I made and wore myself. Since then it was a ton of trial and error, but I've found out what works for me. I'm trying the spray arcylic tomorrow after I get off shift. I recently started painting tooled parts or letters but have had some trouble with the painted colors not bleeding or loosing some of its brightness when I apply a finish. The painting different colors is new to me so ANY help would be much appreciated... Cyberthrasher (wink wink) Talk to y'all later!!
  14. Hey y'all.. New to the forum but I wanted to see what some other people are using/doing to waterproof leather. I have a method that works pretty well, but I'd like to change it up a bit. Thanks for any input!
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