Adler 205-6 Feet

[avimeso]

Hey im after some feet for my sewing machine. any ideas I was told by adler in australia they don't make the parts anymore.

[Trox]

Hey im after some feet for my sewing machine. any ideas I was told by adler in australia they don't make the parts anymore.

Hi,

your machine is a bottom feed only and use the same feet size as the Adler`s cl. 204/205-64, 104, 105, cl. 5 and Singer 45 K (and many more).

I know that Cowboy bob (dealer on this forum) has both a roller foot and a harness foot that will fit your machine. I am 99% sure about that, but take the key with measurement (on the presser bar) to be sure. Those above feet's measure 8,4 to 8,8 mm key width.

The height does not matter, just adjust the presser bar spring.

Now when you know what to look for, you can also modify the ones you find self later. If you want some made for you, speak to Thomas Brinkhoff, head of spare parts Dürkopp Adler. http://sew24.blogspo.../downloads.html

Good luck

Tor

Edited May 25, 2013 by Trox

[avimeso]

Hi,

your machine is a bottom feed only and use the same feet size as the Adler`s cl. 204/205-64, 104, 105, cl. 5 and Singer 45 K (and many more).

I know that Cowboy bob (dealer on this forum) has both a roller foot and a harness foot that will fit your machine. I am 99% sure about that, but take the key with measurement (on the presser bar) to be sure. Those above feet's measure 8,4 to 8,8 mm key width.

The height does not matter, just adjust the presser bar spring.

Now when you know what to look for, you can also modify the ones you find self later. If you want some made for you, speak to Thomas Brinkhoff, head of spare parts Dürkopp Adler. http://sew24.blogspo.../downloads.html

Good luck

Tor

im not sure how to measure what you are talking about. there is a bar at the back of the needle that doesn't move that the roller foot is clamped onto with a screw.

[Trox]

im not sure how to measure what you are talking about. there is a bar at the back of the needle that doesn't move that the roller foot is clamped onto with a screw.

Yes that is the one, take of the roller foot and measure the square part of the bar its mounted on. I do not think Adler made a unique presser bar for the - 6 subclass. I am pretty sure they have used the same as on the subclass -64, and on other machines with similar feed system. I have three different big Adler and they all use the same feet. The only ones that are different is the jump foot, sub cl.- 8.

And the triple feed sub cl.`s - 74, - 374 and - 370.

All the other class`s: 4, 5, 104, 105, 204 and 205 feet`s will fit on your presser bar. I am 99 % sure of this. Then if they will be any useful to you is an other matter. They can be of different length, but that does not matter either. Some are segregated, feeding feet`s. You cannot use them without grinding them smooth first (because of the passive presser bar). Do you only have the roller foot for your machine? One foot DA still stock is the regular -64 foot, however it is very expensive and to wide. What are you going to sew, use the foot (feet`s) for.

Edited May 26, 2013 by Trox

[Trox]

Here is a pic of the Cowboy 2500 narrow harness foot that also fit the Adler. It is 10 mm wide and have a inside key width of 8,4 mm. ( to 8,5). The presser bar of my Adler 204-64 i about 7,5 mm, so the foot is a bit to big but thats no problem. When you tighten up the screw its no play in it. Cowboy bob ( Bob Kowar on Toledo Industrial sewing machine) sold me this one for about 50 to 60 $. Cowboy Bob is his member name here. I attach a bad picture of it on the Cowboy machine.

[avimeso]

Here is a pic of the Cowboy 2500 narrow harness foot that also fit the Adler. It is 10 mm wide and have a inside key width of 8,4 mm. ( to 8,5). The presser bar of my Adler 204-64 i about 7,5 mm, so the foot is a bit to big but thats no problem. When you tighten up the screw its no play in it. Cowboy bob ( Bob Kowar on Toledo Industrial sewing machine) sold me this one for about 50 to 60 $. Cowboy Bob is his member name here. I attach a bad picture of it on the Cowboy machine.

that's the foot I want for it. also need a spring for the roller foot, as it moves when I lift the foot due to having no spring. the bar on the machine is round is about 7mm. in a square shape Im trying to put a pic up.

Edited May 27, 2013 by avimeso

[avimeso]

Edited May 27, 2013 by avimeso

[Trox]

Hi,

thats the first time I have seen a picture of a 205-6. You will not be able to break that one, its built like a tank. Here you see a better pic (a bit better anyway) of the CB harness foot. Yes you got it right, thats the square bottom end of the presser bar. I do not think other than DA will sell you that spring, if any at all. I think you must buy a new roulette roller presser foot. Alternatively, just find a Little piece thin spring metal and drill a hole in one end. Then heat it and bend the other end slightly. You can use a thin metal saw blade HHS grade (grind of the teeth). You see on the pic how it works, it should be easy to make. You can also buy a foot like this (pic) at the same place and to about the same price as the other foot. I bought it from him, http://www.tolindsewmach.com/, he is a member here. Cowboy Bob, he normally reads all the sewing machine related topics. The foot you have will fit your machine better that this aftermarket one, so take my advice and fix it. If you are going to use old Adler machines you must be prepared to customize your own sewing feet`s. Not much are available for these anymore, you can do it.

Good luck

Tor

[avimeso]

Thanks trox I contacted cowboybob but he hasnt responded to my message and has read it. I'm going to stick with my roller amd fix it like you said but I still need a harness foot from someobe

[Trox]

Thanks trox I contacted cowboybob but he hasnt responded to my message and has read it. I'm going to stick with my roller amd fix it like you said but I still need a harness foot from someobe

Thats a wise choice, good luck.

Tor

[avimeso]

[avimeso]

I have fitted the harness foot to the 205-6 adler. I am still having problems sewing. the top thread is breaking and its not feeding at times. if I got forward 3 stiches, reverse then start sewing it refuses to feed and the needle just goes up and down. im using 12 poly cotton with a 200/25 needle. i tried to make a pouch out of bridle leather this afternoon combined thickness of about 5mm and it trashed it. its been to adler and was serviced. getting sick of paying people and they don't fix it.

[Wizcrafts]

Your photo is blurry, so I can't see the details on your needle. Make sure that the ribbed side faces due-left and the cut-out scarf faces due-right. Watch the needle as it goes down and ascends. After rising between 1/8 and 3/16 inch, the hook should meet the scarf, about 1/8" above the eye, with the direction/feed lever in the zero position (Trox has posted the exact dimensions in metric. Search this forum). Then check in the full reverse position to see if the hook is still above the eye. Marginally timed machines may sew fine in forward, but allow the hook to clip the thread at the top of the eye in reverse. It happens to me sometimes and I reset the timing on the needle bar.

Even solidly secured needle bars can move up due to the extreme shock they endure when sewing hard leather. This throws the timing off.

Another thing to check for is the lateral clearance between the hook and the needle. Some big Adler machines use a little numbered spacer with two screw holes to place the needle the best distance from the needle, for a given size needle (default is #200). If your needle is a #200, but the spacer is the wrong number, say a #180 or #160, contact will be made between the hook and needle.

GottaKnow Eric has given good advice in his replies to remove the throat plate and watch the loop form and see what actually happens when the hook meets it. If the loop disappears, reduce the travel of the check spring. If it twists forward or backward, consider using a different spool of thread. If the loop is way too small to be picked up, try going down one needle size.

Another thing is the type of thread you are using. Poly-cotton is really made to be used in heavy duty domestic or quilting machines, as a top stitch thread. It is very soft, compared to bonded nylon or bonded polyester that leather workers normally use. These machines are capable of treating cotton thread with kid gloves. Your big Adler is not built to pussy foot around with soft thread. Also, your thread may have been wound with a right hand twist, which is the opposite of what your machine requires.

Harness shops often use needle and awl stitchers that sew with glazed, left twist, linen thread, run through a liquid wax of some kind. The wax adds body and lubrication to the thread as you are sewing, then hardens to secure the stitches in place. Linen and cotton thread are related!

[avimeso]

the reason I went poly cotton because it seemed softer and when i sewed on a friends k6 it didn't fray/break as easy. I don't really understand a lot that you said because i don't know a lot about machines. the reason I paid adler was for them to get it to work. im not sure what the problem with unless the foot is not suitable. the only thing I could see being a problem is maybe the foot is putting too much pressure down and the feed is having a hard time. theres plenty of tention on the bobbin and top thread. would you suggest trying some nylon bonded? 277 is what they do saddle skirts and tack with isn't it?

[Trox]

Hello Avimeso, sorry for late replay. I see you have fitted the harness foot, and now your machine will not sew. I do not think thats related to the foot in anyway. However, we must find its last working configuration.

Did your machine sew before you changed thread and foot? You are telling it has been to service in a Dürkopp Adler workshop, I assume it worked as it should when you got it back? I also assumes this is a new machine to you? If I am right about this it could be a minor fault. This is a straight forward and simple machine, not much that could go wrong.

Anyway, put the roller foot back and check your threading.

This machine threads just like any other Adler 205 or 204 machines, you can download a manual on a similar class like the 205-370 and check that you have threaded your machine right http://www.duerkopp-adler.com/en/main/Support/downloads/index.html?action=search&prop0=%2Fcommons%2Fdownload%2Fpublic%2F205-370%2F&prop1=

Or check the youtube video of the Cobra 4 or Cowboy 441 clone machines that threads the same way

.

Make sure you use a new right size needle and if its pushed all the way up in the needle bar. And if its turned the right way (needle scarf to the right). The thread has to be left twisted, for the size tkt 12 you can use from 180 to 200 Nm needle size. I use mostly polyester threads, but I see no reason yours should not work as long as its left twisted.

If all above is Ok and it still will not sew you must check the hook needle timing. But first check all the above and post back to me.

Good luck

Tor

[avimeso]

http://youtu.be/b2rIIx3yjEw

http://youtu.be/VRRm6mAspo8

Some videos any idea what's wrong?

[Wizcrafts]

Unless my eyes deceived me, I did not see you hold back the threads as you started to sew the test strip of leather. You must hold back at least the top thread, if not both. Failure to hold back the thread causes too much top thread to get pulled underneath and it bunches up under the leather and sometimes around the shuttle race. When the thread bunches up under the leather, the teeth can't move it against the tension of the bunched up threads.

[Les No6]

As well as Wiz mentioned why are you stitching forward back then forward again? The machine seems and sounds to be working just start by reversing then go forward and at the end reverse to lock your stitches, if your machine can do this as it seems it can in the video then it's working, you are sewing leather not webbing or cloth.

[Trox]

Wiz is right, you must hold your thread tight with your left hand when you start sewing or you get a backlash.

[Trox]

Hi,

(I will repeat the above posts, so you understand the importance of it.)

Do not let the foot stay down on the feed dog without material under it (second video), you wear out your feed dog. Your machine looks fine to me, we are talking about some minor operating errors here.

Every time you start sewing hold down the thread for about 5 stitches, and when you are locking the stitches by sewing over them also. This is very important. If you keep on sewing like that the thread will bunch up in the shuttle house and you will knock the machine off timing. You start the seam by sewing two stitches in reverse and lock the stitches by sewing over them (or turn the work piece around). At the end of the seam you do the same thing but maybe more than two stitches. (or finishing your seam by hand, search the forum for technique). Remember to hold down the thread (both threads) when starting and finishing the seam.

Good luck.

Tor

[avimeso]

thanks guys ill get back to you. I thought it was starting to look good then the top thread lost tension. will do some fiddling.

[Trox]

thanks guys ill get back to you. I thought it was starting to look good then the top thread lost tension. will do some fiddling.

Check your threading, the thread has probably jumped out of the tension disk.