Best Way To Attach Iwb Straps

[J Hayes]

Stainless steel t nuts and and screws. I believe the stainless is a bit stronger than the standard hardware store stuff. Use 8/32, and get an undercut head, McMaster Carr sells them. The undercut head is the key, it allows the screw to get deep enough in the snap post to not interfere with the socket, look at a Bianchi holster sometime. Also the 8/32 will obviously be stronger than the 6/32. I use a 3/8" length screw and really tighen it tight tight. Just my .02

Oh and I also clip my t nuts just as Billsotx posted, shortens the bur and sharpens it to more easily penetrate the leather.

Edited June 4, 2013 by J Hayes

[IngleGunLeather]

Stainless steel t nuts and and screws. I believe the stainless is a bit stronger than the standard hardware store stuff. Use 8/32, and get an undercut head, McMaster Carr sells them. The undercut head is the key, it allows the screw to get deep enough in the snap post to not interfere with the socket, look at a Bianchi holster sometime. Also the 8/32 will obviously be stronger than the 6/32. I use a 3/8" length screw and really tighen it tight tight. Just my .02

Oh and I also clip my t nuts just as Billsotx posted, shortens the bur and sharpens it to more easily penetrate the leather.

What brand snaps are you using? I tried 8-32 and the screw head would sit down into the stud on some of my off brand snaps. The screw head diameter was too big, dropped to a 6-32 and it worked just fine.

[J Hayes]

What brand snaps are you using? I tried 8-32 and the screw head would sit down into the stud on some of my off brand snaps. The screw head diameter was too big, dropped to a 6-32 and it worked just fine.

Lift The Spot, ordered directly from YKK to get the black ones. I'll try to get some pictures for you.

Nice holster by the way.

Jeremy

[J Hayes]

Here ya go. The hole in the strap fits over the barrel of the T nut.

Jeremy

[IngleGunLeather]

Here ya go. The hole in the strap fits over the barrel of the T nut.

Jeremy

Thanks for the photos Jeremy. Just ordered some "pull the dot" snaps.

[supercub]

Stainless steel t nuts and and screws. I believe the stainless is a bit stronger than the standard hardware store stuff. Use 8/32, and get an undercut head, McMaster Carr sells them. The undercut head is the key, it allows the screw to get deep enough in the snap post to not interfere with the socket, look at a Bianchi holster sometime. Also the 8/32 will obviously be stronger than the 6/32. I use a 3/8" length screw and really tighen it tight tight. Just my .02

Oh and I also clip my t nuts just as Billsotx posted, shortens the bur and sharpens it to more easily penetrate the leather.

Do you have a part number for the 8/32 screws from McMaster Carr? Seems like every 8/32 screw I've tried (obtained locally) is just a hair too big to fit inside the snap stud and work reliably - even when using the pull the dot snaps.

I'd much prefer to use 8/32 screws rather than 6/32 - can use Chicago screw posts as well as t nuts to attach the hardware.

Thanks

[J Hayes]

I believe the p/n is 91099A260 for the 8/32 x 3/8 phillips flat undercut machine screw

[supercub]

I believe the p/n is 91099A260 for the 8/32 x 3/8 phillips flat undercut machine screw

Thanks, this should save a lot of head scratching and frustration.

[saddlertime]

Just to clear up something that may cause some confusion, the "undercut head" is not the head diameter that is smaller. The term "undercut" pertains to the part under the head near the threads. The bottom part of the head is shorter so that the screw can have more threads. This is typically done for small length flat head machine screws because the length of a flat head machine screw is from tip to tail so to speak where as a button head screw length is only the threaded portion.

For example this link shows a #8-32x3/8" Non-undercut screw:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#cadinlnord/96640a123/=n6h4ng

This link shows a #8-32x1/4" undercut screw:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#cadinlnord/96640a122/=n6h5pl

You can see that the head diameter is still 0.312", but it is only 0.070" thick rather than 0.100" like the standard screw.

I just wanted to make sure that it is clear that if the snap ID is too small for the OD of the screw head, an undercut head won't help. If the screw head isn't seating down deep enough into the socket, then the undercut head may be your solution

[Boriqua]

I must be the dumbest guy in the room because with all the great advice and pictures on this thread I am still confused. I have set my t-nuts between the leather. The leather I am using is 8-9. So you can see in the pic how high the t-nut shaft sticks out of the leather. Now if I understand I am simply supposed to cut my strap, make my holes, slip the strap over the shaft of the t-nut and tighten down the 6/32 screws I bought.

But here is the question. The shaft on my snap back is actually longer than the shaft of the t-nut so why not just set the snap the way you normally would without using the t-nut?

Alex

[supercub]

But here is the question. The shaft on my snap back is actually longer than the shaft of the t-nut so why not just set the snap the way you normally would without using the t-nut?

Alex

The reason I use the t-nut rather than the snap post is that it gives you the option to replace worn out straps, or to substitute longer or shorter straps when wearing different width belts. By using the snap post you are pretty much stuck with one size belt loop. Nothing wrong with that, the t-nut just gives a little more flexibility.

[NoName]

Thank you J Hayes for the quality of information. (without the display of ego)

[RMB Custom Leather]

I always shorten the prongs of the t-nuts before I install them; just clip them with a pair of farrier nippers or wire cutters (dikes, dykes, diagonal pliers, whatever you prefer to call them) and you won't have them poking through the leather. If you're making an IWB like the Bruce Nelson Summer Special you don't want the t-nut marring the gun's finish.

I do the same thing because it leaves just enough to lock into the leather so it doesn't move. I am still looking for some prongs that are less than 1/4".

Edited August 19, 2013 by RMB Custom Leather

[DaltonMasterson]

Are any of you using the leather stand-off pieces like Milt Sparks? It seems all of you are just attaching the strap directly to the holster, without that piece. Any advantage or disadvantage?

DM

[glockanator]

I add a snall square piece that goes between the strap and holster. I acutally glue it to.thebstrap.so it doesnt get lost.

[supercub]

The "stand off" piece or spacer helps for a tuckable holster to provide a little more space between the holster body and strap so you can tuck a shirt over the gun and between the holster and belt for maximum concealment. It also helps a little on a non tuckable IWB - saving wear on the underside of your strap loops where they rub.

[Jumpout]

I also use t-nuts pushed through from the backside of the holster. Then secured with a screw through the belt strap. When I install the screw I use blue loctite. And I have also found you have to really pay attention when ordering the male parts of those Pull the Dot snaps!

[malabar]

I've only made a couple of hundred holsters like this, so I don't have the extensive experience that Ray does. But I bury the the t-nuts between the layers of leather. On my IWBs, I attach the straps the way that Milt Sparks does -- I have a separate tab and spacer stitched to the strap, and I secure them with a pair of t-nuts. Lobo's right -- you can certainly strip these things out, but my personal experience has been that the only ones I have problems with come out of the box bad. I've never had a client strip them, but then, because they are attached at two points, they never loosen, and the client doesn't have to touch them.

Similarly, my most popular holster has replaceable straps that are held in place by a single t-nut, but because the strap threads through the body of the holster before being screwed down, these never loosen, either.

Of course, it might be that after a few more years of business, I find out otherwise.

Now, I have had clients destroy the one-way snaps from putting them on the wrong way <g>

tk

[TKanaley]

Generally we go through roughly 15,000 - 20,000 Tnuts in the making of our holsters each and every year. We also as a matter of doing things the way that we do, bury our Tnuts between the layers of leather rather than having an exposed metal flange on the backside of the holster. The only exceptions are our tension welt holsters and a couple of our mag pouch designs where the baseplate of the Tnut doesn't show or come into contact with bare flesh. Though it is possible to spin a Tnut if you overtighten, or cross thread the screw going into it. It is an event that very rarely happens, at least with our product. Last year I replaced Tnuts on two different holsters that were at least 10 years old and failed due to operator error. Both repairs took me less than 15 minutes. Keep in mind that we ship between $800,000 and $900,000 worth of holsters/mag pouches/belts every year. That's a lot of product each year with little to no returns for repair. Spinning Tnuts have not been a problem for us and we've been using them for well over 40 years.

One thing we don't do with Tnuts is clip the prongs shorter and there's a reason for that.

We set all our Tnuts with a 1/4" thick, flat metal tongue that has a hole drilled near the end that's just a little larger diameter and a little thicker than the barrel of the Tnut. To drive the Tnuts into the leather, we position the base of the Tnut over a small anvil and wack the metal tongue with a lead weighted, rawhide mallet causing the tips of the prongs to clinch over as they are driven through the leather and into the bottom of the metal tongue. Occasionally we'll find the need to have to remove a Tnut during production, but I can tell you that once the nut has been set in the above manner, it takes more than just a little a bit of effort to remove.

Driving and clinching the tips of the Tnut prongs has roughly the same effect as clinching a horseshoe nail into the wall of the hoof after you've drove the nail and clipped it. As any experienced farrier knows, a horse won't be wearing his shoes very long if the nails aren't clinched. And if you don't clinch a buried Tnut, you might end up spending more time repairing spinning Tnuts than you want. Lastly, anyone concerned about the aesthetics of the clinched-over points being exposed, they are covered up with the snap or strap for which you put the Tnut there to begin with. No problem...

T

[Red Cent]

For those of us who are mumbling "What the heck are ........". We have seen them but terms escape us (me).

[malabar]

Tony,

Thanks for weighing in.

You said that you repaired two holsters with stripped t-nuts last year: Would you mind sharing your procedure for replacing the t-nut?

many thanks

tk

[TKanaley]

Tony,

Thanks for weighing in.

You said that you repaired two holsters with stripped t-nuts last year: Would you mind sharing your procedure for replacing the t-nut?

many thanks

tk

Sure, you cut the thread by inserting a knife between the layers of leather, pull out a few stitches and remove the damaged Tnut with a pair of needle nose pliers. Replace Tnut, clinch, glue and handstitch through the old stitch holes (or machine stitch if at all possible), re-burnish the edge and you're done. Like I said, it's a simple procedure and it usually takes me less than 15 minutes.

I've replaced quite a few corroded brass snap studs with Tnuts on old 20 to 35 year old Summer Specials. Same procedure as above, but additionally I have to grind the barrel of the Tnut down once the Tnuts are set in the leather, so that the male snaps sit flush to the topband once they are screwed in place. Makes them good for another 20 to 35 years.

T

[malabar]

Slick. Must be gratiying to see your gear still in use after all that time.

many thanks for the pointers.

tk