How Do You Store Big Pieces Of Cased Leather?

[Bob Blea]

dont worry about mold....your leather has enough tanning acid in it to withstand it for weeks....just keep it under plastic or like one said in a large zipper or taped plastic bag and u can keep it for days just as wet as you like....your discoloration is mostlikly oxidation from steel or metal....I have keppt my damp leather for days just under an old shoping bag and all is well !!!

Jimbob

Thanks Jimbob, I'm thinking like you that it was discoloration too. Just didn't seem right that mold would pop up like that after only a few days except that I let that piece sit out at room temperature more than I usually do. It was a brand new stamp that may have had something on it, or maybe I got something on my hands. I'm hoping that's all it was.

I had never heard that the acids still in the leather resisted mold formation but that does kind of make sense. I clean up that piece and put it back in the fridge in a new bag, and so far no more mold.

[benlilly1]

After reading this thread I have a couple of questions if I may.

1. Listerine - This is the mouth wash stuff right? as it's a brand name, would normal supermarket mouthwash be just as good or does it "have" to be listerine - does this have something in it the shop washes don't?

2. Benlilly1 - You say you soak your leather in warm water until it stops bubbling - isn't this too long for tooling - from my understanding this amount of time is for when you do wet forming and not carving. I've been doing something similar, but rather than wait for it to stop bubbling I quickly run it through the water bowl - takes about 2-3 seconds. I then let mine dry out for about 30 minutes before putting it in a bag overnight. I then tool the following day.

Thanks

I get the best results waiting for the bubbles to stop. It only takes a few seconds. I usually put it in the bag overnight. When I know I'm going to be ready to carve I get it out and let it sit in the open air until it's just right. I usually put the grain side down and check it often until I think the time is right.

[Bob Blea]

After reading this thread I have a couple of questions if I may.

1. Listerine - This is the mouth wash stuff right? as it's a brand name, would normal supermarket mouthwash be just as good or does it "have" to be listerine - does this have something in it the shop washes don't?

2. Benlilly1 - You say you soak your leather in warm water until it stops bubbling - isn't this too long for tooling - from my understanding this amount of time is for when you do wet forming and not carving. I've been doing something similar, but rather than wait for it to stop bubbling I quickly run it through the water bowl - takes about 2-3 seconds. I then let mine dry out for about 30 minutes before putting it in a bag overnight. I then tool the following day.

Thanks

Hi Harag,

Yes, it is the Listerine you find in the stores. Many people here swear by it. However, I've also been told by some pretty good authorities (Bob Park) that it's just the alcohol that is helping. That's why I just put alcohol in my casing solution. Also, I didn't want my leather smelling like listerine....

I case pretty much like you do, but I used to do it like Benlilly does. I do make sure my leather is very wet before setting it out to case. In my mind, letting it soak till all the bubbles stop coming out just makes it take longer to dry out but I may be wrong about that. I've heard on many saddle makers who do great work that case that way.

Thanks,

Bob

[Bob Blea]

I get the best results waiting for the bubbles to stop. It only takes a few seconds. I usually put it in the bag overnight. When I know I'm going to be ready to carve I get it out and let it sit in the open air until it's just right. I usually put the grain side down and check it often until I think the time is right.

You do great work so maybe there is something to soaking it that long. And the whole time you are working on it you don't refrigerate the piece?

Thanks again,

Bob

[Cyberthrasher]

I case pretty much like you do, but I used to do it like Benlilly does. I do make sure my leather is very wet before setting it out to case. In my mind, letting it soak till all the bubbles stop coming out just makes it take longer to dry out but I may be wrong about that. I've heard on many saddle makers who do great work that case that way.

Thanks,

Bob

Consider what the bubbles are - air that's trapped in the leather being forced out by the water. The point of casing is to get an evenly distributed level of moisture throughout the leather and especially in the core. Once all the bubbles are out, you know the core has moisture. If you're only letting it sit for 30 minutes before wrapping it up for the night, you're not getting the best casing you can. I usually give mine an 1 1/2 - 2 hours before wrapping it up. So yes, it does take longer to "dry" to a point where you can let the moisture distribute, but you'll be getting moisture in the core instead of just the outside layers. This will make your tooling that much better and stop it from drying out as quickly once you start the work.

[Harag]

Thanks for the input Cyber, appreciated as always. When casing I do it overnight as instructed in the casing pinned topic, but I was under the impression that wetting it for that long is great for wet forming an item, so i've just been running the leather through the bowl to get even water on it. I'll try leaving it for a longer though as you say about 2 hrs to see what difference it makes to my poor tooling, I'm still learning the stamps so the tooling dosn't look much better at the moment.

[Cyberthrasher]

As the casing document states - pull it through slowly until there are almost no bubbles left.

[Bob Blea]

Consider what the bubbles are - air that's trapped in the leather being forced out by the water. The point of casing is to get an evenly distributed level of moisture throughout the leather and especially in the core. Once all the bubbles are out, you know the core has moisture. If you're only letting it sit for 30 minutes before wrapping it up for the night, you're not getting the best casing you can. I usually give mine an 1 1/2 - 2 hours before wrapping it up. So yes, it does take longer to "dry" to a point where you can let the moisture distribute, but you'll be getting moisture in the core instead of just the outside layers. This will make your tooling that much better and stop it from drying out as quickly once you start the work.

I don't know that I buy the argument that you need to soak it in water until all the bubbles stop. The idea is to get the fibers of the leather rehydrated which takes time, hence why you case leather. The bubbles just represent air trapped between the fibers in the leather, but they don't mean that there isn't already enough water in the leather to fully rehydrate the fibers. To my thinking if the leather has already reached the wet noodle stage and is dripping water, it has enough to fully rehydrate everything as it sits overnight and the water fully soaks in. I get bubbles coming out of the leather even once it is out of the casing bath, which suggests to me that the air bubbles are a result of the fibers swelling as they take on water not just water pressure forcing air out. The fact that we have to wait many hours for the leather to return to normal color tells me that there is more than enough moisture to fully hydrate the leather. At least that's my theory. Like I said before, there are many great leather workers out there that do dip them till the bubbles stop, and they do great work.

Bob

[Cyberthrasher]

At least that's my theory.

Bob

That's the most important part.

Buy my theory, don't buy it - no problems

If you're happy with the results, keep at it. I only offer my theory on it for those who may see something lacking and feel they need a change.

I did realize here that it may have seemed like I was saying YOU were doing it wrong. Rest assured that I wasn't, only simply referencing your comments.

[Bob Blea]

No problem, I didn't think you were saying I was doing anything wrong. If there is difference in how we go about casing, I think it's slight and we probably both end up at the same destination. Maybe my way is a little quicker, but it might not be. But we both end up with a well cased piece of leather in the end. I'm no expert, that's why I hang around here, so I can learn. Thanks again.

Bob