Cyberthrasher Report post Posted June 21, 2013 (edited) Next up we I take the leather with lubricated edges (from the saddle soap) over to my dremel burnisher. This makes it super quick and easy, but doing it by hand works too. I use the back channel on this one because it fits the profile of the leather better. Yes, I know, I need to clean my burnisher These next two shots are attempting to show the burnished look of it with a bad cell phone picture. Since I wasn't getting a good shot, I decided to offer some contrast and put some dye on the edge. I just splashed some dye onto my blue shop paper towel (as tom explained earlier) and rubbed it on. See how the dye pretty much stopped solid on the line? That's because the burnished edge doesn't allow it to bleed past it. I also briskly buffed it up with the dirty side of my denim scrap. Dirty as in, it's already got black streaks on it. I should also add that I really didn't take any time to make sure I had good dye coverage on it since I was just going for contrast to show in the pictures. Had this been a real project, I would have use a sponge or foam brush to get good coverage, or at least worked a touch longer on applying it with the rag. This was just a QUICK rub down. Here's our "finished" result. I have wax loaded into that denim pretty good, so I rub it in and then get a non-waxed portion of the denim to quickly rub at the edge and cause friction. This makes for a super smooth and shiny edge that you can hardly tell was once two pieces. Now, if I were putting Resolene or other finish on, I would do it before waxing. Other than that, my process is the same. As I said, this entire thing took about 5 minutes, with a lot of that stopping to take pictures over and over until I got a clear one And as far as the holes for the buckle to slide in do I do them last and just dab some dye in the carefully?? Sorry I forgot to ask earlier I usually just leave that natural and give it a quick rub with my bone folder to slick it up a little. If the customer requests that I color it, I'll brush some in there. You'll also find that Sharpie can work wonders here I don't do any texting or anything, but this method is working fine. Edited June 21, 2013 by Cyberthrasher Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Eternal Custom Designs Report post Posted June 21, 2013 Very cool...you can't even tell its two pieces...that's my goal...I'm gonna have to learn to stitch asap...know any good resources tri learn on a budget..lol Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cyberthrasher Report post Posted June 21, 2013 Very cool...you can't even tell its two pieces...that's my goal...I'm gonna have to learn to stitch asap...know any good resources tri learn on a budget..lol I'm still learning, but here's a REALLY GOOD video from one of our members http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=12259 Here's another one he did about how to sharpen your awl, since it's something that a lot of people have troubles with. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=47996 Hopefully these pictures about edging will show others that Gum Trag is NOT necessary to get a good edge easily. I continuously tell people it's just a crutch and only glues things down. It should be clear that this edge is smooth and will hold on its own without the aid of something holding the fibers down. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Eternal Custom Designs Report post Posted June 21, 2013 Very true...thanks again...I was just telling my wife how much of a help you have been!!! I appreciate you brother!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Eternal Custom Designs Report post Posted June 21, 2013 What of after application of your dye...if its too dark can anything be done...I need to work on application techniques somehow...suggestions??? Its a dif ball game from scraps to strap lemgths Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cyberthrasher Report post Posted June 21, 2013 What of after application of your dye...if its too dark can anything be done.. Not really. Since the dye soaks into the leather, you can't remove it. Is it only too dark in certain areas? If so, apply a light coat of neatsfoot oil over the whole thing and then just let it sit. The dye may even itself out. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Eternal Custom Designs Report post Posted June 21, 2013 I like the look actually..its darker on the edges cause I did the edges first...its a cool look...I'm gonna try airbrush soon...to build layers...but like I was saying I don't know how to practice..cause its easy on scraps... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cyberthrasher Report post Posted June 21, 2013 How big are your scraps? When testing coloring, I like to use stuff about the size of a post card or so. But, for overall single color, I use the rag method that we were discussing and just wipe it on. It's easy to get even coverage that way without building up too much. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Eternal Custom Designs Report post Posted June 21, 2013 My scraps aren't that big...so was it u that uses and old T-shirt? Or how do you do it.... I decided to put another coat on to even it out!! Lol...it was eating at me!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cyberthrasher Report post Posted June 21, 2013 Just remember that dye can take time, so let it do it's thing before you panic too much. You'll be amazed at how it evens out over time. I think that was Tom who said he uses the old T-shirt for resolene. I'm a sock or blue shop paper towel kind of guy I stopped using the towels for Resolene, but still use them for dye all the time. Just fold it up into 1/4's, hold it over the dye bottle, and splash some up there. Wipe that on and it will be perfectly even. You'll have to reload a lot, but you won't get streaks or uneven spots as easily. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Eternal Custom Designs Report post Posted June 21, 2013 I'll get some shop towels tonight...so I can play with it...do you work small sections.. and with light pressure in a straight stroke? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cyberthrasher Report post Posted June 21, 2013 I'd say I can probably get about a 10 inch or so section with it just wiping back and forth to cover. If you see some light spots where your dye's running out, reload and go back over it. It's a really even application and pretty hard to mess it up when you're only doing one color. It's basically block dying, without the block. So, if you have any tooling/impressions, it will go right over that without getting dye in there, but you can touch that up if needed. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Eternal Custom Designs Report post Posted June 21, 2013 I just started polishing the black collar and a bit of black came off onto the piece of blue jeans I cut up this morn...on the side that cured over night...I went ahead and added my Aussie and I'm letting it soak in...think I'll be alright? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cyberthrasher Report post Posted June 21, 2013 Is this the one that's already finished with Resolene? If so, you probably need another coat. But, just buff and buff once the Aussie is done and see if you get any more color off. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Eternal Custom Designs Report post Posted June 21, 2013 Will do...the Aussie has beeswax in it..so I think I'm good!! I think...lol...thanks Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cyberthrasher Report post Posted June 21, 2013 If it's just a little bit on the top side you should be fine. I would only be concerned if it was coming off on the bottom, but I believe I remember that you were leaving the bottom natural. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Eternal Custom Designs Report post Posted June 21, 2013 Its on the bottom side of the big black collar..but its only a small area that the buckle attaches to so it will be folded to the inside...I've smothered it with Aussie...and letting it do its thing before attaching the hardware...!! It'll be good!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JustKate Report post Posted June 22, 2013 Hopefully these pictures about edging will show others that Gum Trag is NOT necessary to get a good edge easily. I continuously tell people it's just a crutch and only glues things down. It should be clear that this edge is smooth and will hold on its own without the aid of something holding the fibers down. I can vouch for that. I don't even know why gum trag is recommended for edge slicking. Saddle soap gives so much better results with noticeably less effort. Nice work on the photo tutorial, Cyberthrasher. Your explanation and photos really simplify the process. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cyberthrasher Report post Posted June 22, 2013 Thanks Kate!! If there's enough interest I'll probably do a real one with a teal live camera and pictures you can see Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ReneeCanady Report post Posted June 22, 2013 Nice tutorial Cyber! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Macca Report post Posted June 24, 2013 Nice job on the tutorial many thanks, another skill to be learned ! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
