Ed in Tx Report post Posted July 20, 2013 I have a question for the holster makers regarding the type of leather being used for lining your holsters. I know opinions are probably going to be varied on the subject but here it is anyway. When you are lining a holster are you using a straight veg-tan tooling leather of a lighter weight or are you using other types of leather as well? The issue is more related to the tanning process used for your lining leather. I have read and been told in the past that using anything other than a straight veg-tan has the potential for creating issues for the gun being placed in the holster. Chrome tanned leather can create pitting and discoloration of some metals. When you are buying leather it is fairly straight forward when you buy tooling leather you know it is a veg-tan. If you pick a pigskin for lining you may not be aware of how it was tanned. I know the processes are different for a Latigo leather versus a Harness leather. etc. Second part of the question is also regarding the type as well. A while back I had stopped at Tandy for some emergency supplies and a guy was buying a huge stack of rust colored splits. I asked him what he was making and he told me he was using it for holster lining. While I wouldn't call it suede the splits are not a smooth leather and have a "nap" to them. I have read that this type leather can create issues because of the possibility of some of the leather wearing off and creating "fuzz" which might get into the workings of the gun. So there you go. Can the holster makers out there weigh in on this and maybe educate me and anyone else that might have the same questions. Thanks, Ed in Grapevine, Texas Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Frank Report post Posted July 21, 2013 Ed, IF I line a holster, which is very seldom, I use veg tan of a lighter weight, tooling pigskin (which is a veg tan), and in a pinch I will use English bridle of a lighter weight. I know one or two guys that use 5-6 ounce for both layers which simplifies your leather needs. I think Bianchi mentioned in his videos that he liked to use a 4-5 ounce inner and then a 5-6 ounce outer or something to that effect. The other thing you can use is good veg tan calf skin if you can find a regular supply of it. The veg tan splits I cannot comment on as I have never and probably would never use them for anything. The strength of the hide lies in the grain, so I think the splits would eventually break down to nothing since there is nothing holding them together. But long story short, use a veg tanned leather. Frank Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lobo Report post Posted July 21, 2013 In my experience those customers wanting holster linings are concerned primarily with protecting the finish of their handguns against excessive holster wear caused by abrasion. Those customers typically have a strong preference for either suede or smooth leather, but in any case what they want is something soft and smooth to baby their handguns. "Soft" means either brain tanned or chrome tanned (try to find a reliable source for brain tanned). "Suede" means chrome tanned. Vegetable tanned leather is never either soft or suede. Veg-tanned can be oiled up to just about any degree one may wish to soften it, but the oiling will migrate over to the holster body and can affect the forming or structure of the holster, so this is not the best possible option. In short, there is no best possible option. Customer wants "soft", customer wants "smooth", customer wants "suede", then the customer has to be made aware of the simple fact that all leather articles will collect, absorb, and retain moisture (from the atmosphere, from precipitation, from perspiration), and any chemical salts remaining in the lining leather from the tanning process may (perhaps probably) will cause oxidation of the handgun finish. I always advise customers to NEVER store a handgun in a leather holster or case, to always remove the handgun after each day's use and wipe it down with an oily rag, and to store holsters separately in an area having sufficient air flow to permit residual moisture to evaporate off prior to reusing the holster. I refuse to offer holster linings in IWB-style holsters or shoulder holsters because of the constant exposure to perspiration in those applications. About one-third of all holster customers want holster linings, so I offer that option in either smooth or suede leather to the customers' preference. I prefer a lined holster myself, with smooth leather being my first choice because it does not share the tendencies of suede for collecting dust, grit, and debris during use that can be far more abrasive to a handgun finish than any natural leather surface. I have used calf, goat, pig, kid skin, deer skin, and others in both brain-tanned (my personal favorite), chrome tanned, and aniline leathers. I don't find much difference for this use, although I prefer weights of about 2.5 to 3 oz. for lining holsters made of 7 to 9 oz. veg-tanned cowhide. Holster linings were called for much more 20 or 30 years ago than today. Back then most handguns were polished and blued or polished and nickel-plated, either of which finishes are far more prone to abrasion wear than most of the modern handguns we see most often today. Today's finishes are typically far more durable and resistant to abrasion than ever before (Parkerized, maganese-phosphate, acrylics, etc). Occasionally I will receive an inquiry from a customer wanting an assurance that their heirloom quality handgun will be absolutely protected against any holster wear. I generally tell those folks to clean it well, oil it well, and keep it in the gun safe or safe deposit box forever. Any handgun used in any holster for any length of time can be expected to display signs of use and wear. The owner of a "safe queen" handgun should never be encouraged to put it into any holster. Best regards. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jbossartcustomgunleather Report post Posted July 21, 2013 I have experimented with some upholstery leather and really like the results. It's 2-4oz weight, and provides cushioning along with smoothness. Although it is not as durable as a hard veg tan leather, the ease of cleaning and kindness on the finish are excellent. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ChuckBurrows Report post Posted July 21, 2013 "Soft" means either brain tanned or chrome tanned (try to find a reliable source for brain tanned). "Suede" means chrome tanned. FWIW - I have several reliable sources for brain tan so if interested let me know. On the other hand there is a great alternative "soft" alternative to both those types - the German Tan from Crazy Crow - this is an old time fish oil tanned leather (think chamois) and is less expensive than brain tan - it is great stuff...As for protecting the finish one ones gun I agree with Thad Rybka - if you don't want wear on your gun leave it in the box...!!On the other hand I don't recommend soft or suede linings - while in the beginning or to the uninformed they may seem the proper thing in time they will pick up all types of grit and oil so that the lining then becomes sandpaper. On the other hand the flesh side of a veg tan holster can be quite easily smoothed and will in the long run be a better choice than suede/soft liners. Otherwise I use thinner tooling leather (check out book binder supply houses for thin veg tan) such as pigskin or cow or I go with the a 3/4 oz cow veg tan liner and a 4/5 or 5/6 oz veg tan outer. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites