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Ed in Tx

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About Ed in Tx

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  • Location
    Grapevine, Texas
  • Interests
    Leatherworking, woodworking

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    No specialty but prefer making holsters
  • Interested in learning about
    Improving my holster making skills. Would like to learn how to do tooling, I am lacking in that area for sure.
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?
    web search

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  1. Cable lacing twine is the same as what is used for leather lacing. The difference is the size of the cable lacing twine is larger, I believe it is referred to as 9 strand. Basically the same as sewing thread where you have various sizes from 69 to 138, 20, 277 etc. Cable lacing twine is normally either black or white in color and is always waxed. In my younger days I laced miles of communication cables in telephone company central offices. That is pretty much a lost art these days, cable ties are much quicker.
  2. Great looking working saddle. I think I have seen your saddles in Wichita Falls at the Boot and Saddle Makers Roundup. The saddles that are entered for judging at that show always amaze me.
  3. I bought a Cobra 4 about 6 years ago and have used it for all sorts of sewing. Belts and holsters, skeet bags, purses, wallets and a bunch of guitar straps. Give some serious thought as to your real need for all of the attachments. Mine came with everything except the electronic positioning. To be perfectly honest the only things I have used are the left and right feet and the slotted plate. You can't go wrong with the Cobra 4, it is very easy to use and the customer support from The Leather Machine Co. is top notch.
  4. What type and style of needle are you using? There are needle that have a right or left twist to them so the appearance of the top stitch will be slanted. If you are using a spear point or a diamond point needle you need to make sure the thread hole of your needle is square and not slightly twisted to either side.
  5. Great job on the ranger belt. Where did you get the buckle, keepers and tip? They are a perfect contrast to the belt color.
  6. A Ranger style belt would be the best way to go in my opinion. Even with that the main part of the belt should be a bit larger than the persons waist size. A small amount of overlap is best.
  7. Needles sizes are so damn confusing. I looked at the eBay listing and they have size 24 needles but I'm not sure the 135x16 will work in my Cobra Class 4 machine. It seems like every manufacturer has their own nomenclature for sizing.
  8. Fenice makes water based dyes that work extremely well. They are based in Italy and I am sure there must be some European vendor that carry the products.
  9. Where do you purchase the titanium coated needles? I normally use "goof off" to clean my needles when I have glue sticking to them but the titanium coated needles might be of some benefit when I sew belts. Thanks in advance..
  10. Tasco/Ritells tanning solution works well. Taxidermy arts carries the kit. www.taxidermyarts.com.
  11. The only true way to "TAN" a snake skin is with one of the reptile tanning kits Tiara mentioned. The solution of 50/50 alcohol/glycerin is NOT a tanning solution, it is strictly a preservative. I have had people use that method on copperhead skins and then want me to make them something with the skin. It doesn't work out well. When you use a true tanning solution you will see a change in the skin, instead of being almost see through the back side of the skin will be almost white. Tanning is a multi step process that changes the structure of the skin.
  12. Why not try a thin sheet of aluminum between the layers. Just cut the aluminum 3/8" smaller to allow room for stitching.
  13. Springfield Leather has a decent selection of drum dyed veg tan.
  14. I second the Renia Aquilim 315. I have been using it for about 2 years now and have had no issues with it. Best thing is a little bit goes a long way. It took me a while to figure out the best way apply it to the leather. I found using a flexible nylon spatula works the best for me. Another plus is you can use it anywhere and don't have to worry about fumes like you do with solvent based products.
  15. Try soaking the stamps is a solution of CLR and water. CLR works very well for removing rust and it's not corrosive. Same goes for any parts you can remove from the machines. Depending on how much you paid you may well have gotten a really good deal even if you have to spend a few bucks to get the sewing machines up and running.
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